Yarmouth

“ Where, but in Yarmouth, could such a transition take place in so short a time, for where, but in the renowned old borough can such a series of such Rows be found? And where else can be seen a Beach of such proportions, with its far-reaching stretches of dry, clean, soft, “golden” sand, and its uninterrupted view of the German Ocean, continuous from north to south, and bounded along the east by the horizon alone? Measured by miles, both Beach and Marine Drive afford ample scope for the enjoyment of thousands of visitors of all classes. ”

“ Along the coast westward, past pretty Gurnard Bay beloved by those who picnic, and Newtown haven, where, hidden away—much as is Buckler’s Hard across the Solent in Beaulieu River—lies the decaying Francheville, once an important harbour and town, rivalling in prosperity and population Newport itself, and then Yarmouth comes in sight almost at the extreme north-western corner of the Island.
It is a quaint, quiet, foreign-looking old place, lying low with a fine sweep of hills for a background, where a day or two can be pleasantly enough spent. ”

“ The people of Yarmouth will endorse our sentiments when we say, for his zeal and untiring energy in promoting many special objects in the “good old town,” that he is worthy of greater eulogiums than we can bestow, and therefore tender our best thanks to that gentleman for his courtesy in allowing this volume to be dedicated to him—a privilege that was also given us in a first issue, by his predecessor in the Imperial Parliament, the lamented Colonel Duff. Neither must we forget to express our obligation to a select list of subscribers to the work. ”

“ LIVERPOOL—BRIDGEWATER—LUNENBURG
CHESTER—HUBBARDS
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Yarmouth's excuse for being is the sea. All its pleasures and most of its industries are maritime. Its climate is tempered by ocean currents that refresh its gardens and verdure in summer and mitigate the winter cold experienced in other cities of the same latitude. Its geographical position has influenced Yarmouth's selection as the terminus of three lines of importance to those who tour the Provinces. ”

“ There could have been no Roman station at Yarmouth, for the very good reason that while the Roman eagles waved over Britain, the spot on which Yarmouth stands was not land, but sea. Like many other places situated at the mouth of rivers, Yarmouth has sprung up on soil partly alluvial and partly deposited by the tides and currents of the German ocean. ”

“ In Yarmouth Roads—so renowned for the safe riding they afford to shipping—the anchorage is extensive, and there is room for any number of ships. The Roadstead, however, is better calculated for summer than winter, for to large vessels it is only accessible in the daytime with safety.
The trade for which Yarmouth is peculiarly noted is its fisheries, which are an unfailing source of wealth and employment to the inhabitants, and have proved an invaluable nursery for those hardy and gallant seamen who have so often fought and conquered in the battles of their country. ”

“ Aug. 10th. First steam barge proceeded from Yarmouth to Norwich at the rate of five miles per hour.
Sept. 29th. Regent Street formed and opened at a cost of £30,000. Before the opening of this street there was no roadway between King Street and the Quay, except Fuller’s Hill and Friar’s Lane, the latter of which was widened in 1866.
Nov. 14th. Great rejoicing at Yarmouth on the splendid victories gained over the French in Spain and Germany. ”

“ Marriage of Prince Albert Edward with Princess Alexandra of Denmark, at Windsor. The display of enthusiasm at Yarmouth somewhat resembled the Volunteer Review of June 19th, 1862, with this difference—the town in the evening was brilliantly illuminated, and a display of fireworks took place in the Market Place. Nearly 600 Volunteers were entertained by Sir E. Lacon to a sumptuous repast at his stores on the North Quay. 4,669 school children were regaled with a tea at the town’s expense, which, with all other expenses, incurred an outlay of £259. ”

“ Once the fifth port in the world in point of tonnage owned there, Yarmouth has declined in the statistical scale through the evolution of ships from the wooden to the steel and iron age. Nearly all the pioneer inhabitants skippered their own vessels, and ship owning and sailing laid the corner-stone for the quite obvious wealth of the town. The halls and living-rooms of many homes are adorned with paintings of the Fortune in full sail. ”

“ However this may be, it is certain that some of the houses in the Rows were among the first built in the town, and certain also that, leading from the main street, they give easy access to the Quay, whereon Yarmouth finds its chief interest. When the moon is full and throws black beams of shadows across these alleys, and opens seeming pitfalls in their rugged pavement, a stranger hesitates to enter them. At all times they seem properly to belong to conspirators, but they are quite safe and reputable. ”

“ Intelligence received at Yarmouth of the destruction of the Danish navy in Copenhagen by the British fleet, on April 2nd, after four hours’ fighting. Great rejoicing in this town and country generally.
July 1st. Owing to Lord Nelson’s ill-health he again landed at the Jetty from the gun-brig, “Kite.”
Nov. 2nd. The Prince of Orange arrived at Yarmouth from London, and on the 6th sailed in the packet “Diana,” for Cuxhaven.
p. 53Census taken. Population of Yarmouth, 14,854; with Gorleston and Southtown, 16,573.
The batteries erected on the verge of the beach, and mounted with 32-pounders. ”

“ And so the world changes, and we get new men, fresh faces, other minds. The antiquarian Camden, were he to revisit Yarmouth, would not be a little astonished at what he would see. He wrote: ‘As p. 184soon as the Yare has passed Claxton, it takes a turn to the south, that it may descend more gently into the sea, by which means it makes a sort of little tongue or slip of land, washt on one side by itself, on the other side by the sea. In this slip, upon an open shore, I saw Yarmouth, a very neat harbour and town, fortified both by the nature of the place and the contrivance of art. ”

“ The children at the various charity schools and the inmates of the Fishermen’s Hospital were handsomely entertained. The Temperance people had a tea meeting, and all, as far as the weather would permit, appeared to enjoy themselves in their own way.
On Friday afternoon, at three o’clock, the sports were re-commenced, the weather being most propitious and the sun shining with surpassing brilliancy. Yarmouth poured out thousands upon thousands of its working population, and great numbers of all classes were present to witness the fun and partake of the amusement of the day. ”

“ The Reformers of Yarmouth, to show their indignant sense of such conduct, refused to wait at night for the Morning Star (that coach being under the same proprietory as the Telegraph) , but instantly sent a courier to Lowestoft to announce their intention of meeting, in procession, the Old Blue. Ultimately, that coach, surrounded by a profusion of elegant and appropriate flags, bands playing, &c., paraded the town. It was really a most animating and exhilarating spectacle ”

“ The parliamentary borough, returning one member, falls between the E. division of Norfolk and the Lowestoft division of Suffolk. Yarmouth is governed by a mayor, 12 aldermen and 36 councillors. Area, 3568 acres.
Yarmouth Roads, off the coast, afford excellent anchorage except in E. or N.E. winds. The channel to the quays was made by Joost Jansen, a Dutch engineer, in 1567, and affords a depth at the bar of 12 ft. at low water. The herring and mackerel fisheries are most important, and fish-curing is an extensive industry, Yarmouth bloaters being widely famous. ”

“ Yarmouth Water Works Company completed laying the water-pipes throughout the town, and opened the works at Ormesby.
Deaths: Jan. 25th, Rev. Lithgoe, minister of the Roman Catholic Church.—April 24th, Charles Day, Esq.
The Rev. C. Smyth, formerly a curate of St. Nicholas’ Church, ascended to the summit of Monte Rosa and Monte Blanc.
The Yarmouth mackerel fishery realised a sum of £20,000, and 14,045 tons of fish of all kinds were sent from this town by rail. 20,248 barrels of herrings shipped at Yarmouth for foreign ports. ”

“ May. Mr. C. F. Laws passed his final examination for an attorney.
June 10th. The brigantine “Good Design,” of this port, lost off the Spurn. Crew saved.
June 11th. The Great Yarmouth Provisional Order Port and Haven Bill confirmed in the House of Commons.
June 11th. A deputation from Yarmouth waited upon the President of the Local Government Board (the Right Hon. Sclater-Booth) in London, respecting the “trickery” resorted to in the Election of Guardians, and urged a remedy.
June 13th. The brig “Eleanor,” of Yarmouth, collided with the barque “Belle Vue,” and was dismasted. ”

“ Yarmouth and Newport returned members to parliament as one borough in 1295, but no further returns were made until 1584, from which date Yarmouth continued to send representatives until disfranchised by the Reform Act of 1832. The charter from James I. instituted a Wednesday market and a fair at the feast of St James, which were maintained until within recent years. In the 18th century Yarmouth was a notorious smuggling centre. In 1206 John embarked from Yarmouth for the expedition to La Rochelle. ”

“ As there were as many as 70 burgesses in Yarmouth in the time of King Edward, and the town paid a large rent to the king, we may be quite safe in regarding Yarmouth as doing a large business in the herring trade even in late Saxon times.
Live Stock on the Farms.
Although the returns from the different estates in our neighbourhood are compiled on the same system in Domesday Book, they vary very much in respect of the details given, particularly in respect of the live stock on the manors and farms reported. This is no more than what we should expect. ”

“ This work, including probably the two jetties and the boom, cost £120.
Traces of the wall of Yarmouth and its towers still remain, whilst other evidence of the wall is the extraordinary way in which the houses are crowded together, leaving only narrow alleys, or “rows,” for the traffic. A plan of Yarmouth in 1819, published as a frontispiece [ 107] to John Preston’s “Picture of Yarmouth,” shows in an admirable way the congested state of the buildings within the walls. ”

“ While we are in the Hope, where, indeed, for aught I know, we may tarry but a day or two, they could come down by boat conveniently without trouble, whereas to Yarmouth it is a very long ride, with the risk of losing their purses to the gentlemen of the road. Moreover, though the orders are at present that the Fleet gather at Yarmouth, and many are already there 'tis like that it may be changed in a day for Harwich or the Downs. I pray you get your meals at your inn to-day, for we are, as you see, full of work taking on board stores. ”

“ It was therefore resolved to send the fleet among the Dutch fishermen who came to the Yarmouth fishing in September and October, and to continue the process of forcing licenses upon them. The Earl of Northumberland left the Downs for Yarmouth on 16th September, taking with him eight ships and a pinnace; another ship was to follow later. He felt that his task at Yarmouth would be more difficult than his first had been. Then, the only advantage the busses had was their good sailing; now they would have others owing to the season and the place—shoal waters ”

“ Notwithstanding the fact that few of the houses are of any great age, if one except the interesting George Inn, which was once the residence of Sir Robert Holmes, and had the honour of sheltering Charles II on his visit to the town in 1671, Yarmouth has that old-time air of sleepy indifference to modern ways and modern things which is not the least part of many an old-time seaport’s charm. ”

“ They have six or seven North Sea boats: but they of Lowestoft make benefit yearly of buying of herrings of the Hollanders; for likewise these Hollanders be "hosted" with the Lowestoft men, as they be with the Yarmouthians.
In all His Majesty's kingdoms, not any town, comparable unto it for brave buildings.
To the northward, two leagues, is the town of Great Yarmouth, very beautifully built upon a very pleasant and sandy plain of three miles in length. This town is a place of great resort of all the herring fishermen of England. ”

“ The Trustees of the Municipal Charities received the sanction of the Charity Commissioners to erect a Grammar School at Yarmouth, which was built and opened July 29th, 1863.
Dec. 20th. High tide. On the Southtown Road the water was a foot deep, and many parts of the town were inundated. The tide was higher than that recorded in 1816. Mr. T. W. Downing lost the smack “Gem” in the gale.
Dec. 22nd. The brig “Lotus” launched from J. W. Rust’s yard. Dimensions—length, 103 ft.; breadth, 24 ft.; depth, 24 ft.; burthen, 258 tons.
Deaths: Feb. ”

“ In 1281 Yarmouth was fined £1,000 for doing divers trespasses and damages to the Cinque Ports upon the south coast as far as Shoreham, Portsmouth and other places.
In 1303 we find Yarmouth sending ships to join the Royal fleet which was to escort Edward I. to Flanders. Having put the King ashore the Yarmouth and the Cinque Ports men, being well equipped for fight take the opportunity of paying off old scores by engaging in a furious battle in which 25 Yarmouth ships were burnt. According to another account 37 Yarmouth ships were greatly damaged and £15,000 worth of loss inflicted. ”

“ Whatever may have been the exact population of Yarmouth at the time of this terrible visitation (it could not have been more than 10 or 12,000) it must have been a very different town after 1350 to what it was in the first half of the century, and although the merchants might retain their hold upon the herring trade, the loss of so large a part of p. 34the fishing population must have made them much more dependant upon their visitors for the supply of fish in the autumn season than before. ”