Friedrich Adolph Wislizenus

“ The city is regularly built; has wide and clean streets–in some of them quite handsome and convenient houses; plenty of water from the Chihuahua creek, and from an aqueduct; fine gardens around the town, and a delightful public walk, (Alameda,) shaded with cotton trees. The finest place of the city, as usual in Mexico, is the Plaza, or public square. It is very spacious; has a public fountain in the middle, and foot walks on the side, with benches and pillars of a white porphyry, which is found in the neighborhood. ”

“ Imagine to yourself a cart, made without any nails or iron of any kind, with two solid wheels formed out of the trunk of a big tree, and in the circumference rounded, or rather squared, and with a frame of ox-skin or sticks fastened together by rawhide, and this machine then put in motion by three yoke of oxen, and carrying a load, which on a better vehicle one animal could transport much faster and easier, and you will have an idea of this primitive and only known vehicle used in Northern Mexico. ”

“ If the elevation above the sea affords in other countries so probable a criterion for their climate and general character, that an elevation of 3,000 feet is considered equal in its effect upon the climate to nearly 10 degrees difference in latitude, an eminent proof of this rule is given in Mexico, where nature has combined, under the same degree of latitude, all variations of climate, from the tropical often to the coldest, by the mere difference in elevation above the sea. ”

“ On the march we perceived for the first time, to our left, at a distance of about 10 miles, the low sandy bluffs of the Arkansas river, partly wooded with cotton trees. The Little Arkansas, its tributary, was now a small, very fordable creek; but when swelled by rains it becomes a wild torrent, overflowing its steep banks, and the whole valley. The soil is sandy; grass rather indifferent. ”

“ The Mexicans, since their declaration of independence, have been involved in an incessant series of local and general revolutions throughout the country, which prove that republican institutions have not taken root amongst them, and that, although they have thrown off the foreign yoke, they have not learned yet to govern themselves. It could hardly be expected, too, that a people composed of two different races, who have mixed but not assimilated themselves, should, after an oppression of three centuries, at once be fir for a republic. ”

“ On Rio Pecos, and some other localities, the granite was always in a decomposed and conglomerate state, and was most likely transported there in the course of centuries by the yearly risings of the river. But here I stood upon firm granite ground, thrown up from the bowels of the earth in one of the grand revolutions which, in time immemorial, have changed the nature of our globe. This granitic formation extends without interruption from here to Santa Fe. At the highest point of the road is a small plain with good grass, and a fine view over the mountains. ”

“ I awoke rather chilly this morning, as I had no blanket with me, but a good fire soon made me comfortable. To spend my time till the caravan should arrive, I walked along the bed of the creek and examined the rocks; it was granite in a decomposed state. While knocking with my hammer some specimens from the heavy granite blocks, I suddenly perceived an Indian on horseback, galloping over the hill straight towards me. Having kept my horse always saddled and near me, I was mounted in a minute, but the Indian was already at my side, followed by about 20 others. ”

“ Charming as are all the brilliant flowers of the cactus family, more charming yet, to use no harsher expression, are their thorns, hooks, and prickles. A man collecting them ought either to provide himself with nerves of iron, to become insensible against pain; or, better still, with iron gloves, to handle them unpunished. On the bluffs near the Little Arkansas I found a spotted, yellow, calcareous sandstone, without fossils, and loose pieces of ferruginous sandstone. In the evening we travelled six miles, and encamped in the prairie, without water. ”

“ A plain and good road led us in the afternoon through moutains to our right and left, covered with pine.
About eight miles from Wolf creek we reached the Rio Mora, a fine mountain stream, and a charming valley was spreading out before us. Soil, grass, and water, are excellent; the surrounding mountains furnish an abundance of pine, and protect the valley at the same time from severe cold in the winter. Stock increases here very fast; nevertheless, there are vere few settlements at present in this part of the valley, because they are constantly exposed to the depredations of Indians. ”

“ The course of the Rio Grande is certainly the most tortuous that I have seen; the Mississippi compared to it is a straight line. By observing only the direction, one will often be at a loss whether he ascends or descends the river. I remembered one place particularly, where it runs directly south; after having made some five miles, it returns due north so nearly to the same place from which it started, that it is only separated from it by a small strip of sand bank. ”

“ The descent on the left bank of the creek is very steep. The bluffs here consist of a dark-bluish, shistose limestone, with fossils belonging to the cretaceous formation. About a mile from the creek lies the small town of las Vegas, or Gallinas, a village of 100 and odd houses, and poor and dirty looking inhabitants, who cultivate some fields around town by means of irrigation, and raise some stock. The valley of Vegas is not so fertile as that of Mora, and more exposed to the rigor of the winter. In the afternoon we passed through town and turned immediately into the mountains. ”

“ The whole mountain road, in fact, from las Vegas to Santa Fe, is by nature so fortified, that the Americans may congratulate themselves not to have encountered a more energetic enemy, who, without fighting any great battle, by mere skirmishing and harassing might have destroyed the whole army. ”

“ As a grazing country, both States are unsurpassed by any in the Union. Millions of stock can be raised every year in the prairies of the high tableland and in the mountains. Cattle, horses, mules, and sheep increase very fast; and if more attention were paid to the improvement of the stock, the wool of the sheep alone could be made the exchange for the greatest part of the present importation. But to accomplish that, the wild Indians, who chiefly in the last ten years have crippled all industry in stock raising, have first to be subdued. ”

“ The soil becomes now firmer, contains more clay than sand, and makes as good a wagon road from here to Chihuahua as if it were macadamized. The plain through which we travel is east and west, lined by mountains, and is 15 to 20 miles wide. The mountains are timbered with a few scanty cedars, and some pine trees; the geological formation is granitic and porphyritic. The grass becomes every day better, and looks as fresh as in spring. The so-called gramma grass, which grows here very fine, is especially liked by our animals. ”

“ In the afternoon we commenced our march for the sand hills. For six miles we had to travel over a sandy and hilly country, before we reached the sand hills proper, which are here six miles wide. On the first part of the road I saw rocks of a reddish brown porphyry, encrusted sometimes with chalk-like limestone, but no more pieces of limestone. The form of the mountains, too, on our right, more resembles igneous rocks than limestone. ”

“ In the afternoon of the same day I left old Placer to pay a visit to the other mining place, southwest from it, called new Placer, and about nine miles distant. I rode there with Mr. Nolan, a French resident of new Placer. Our way lay through fine pine timber, over steep mountains, and through narrow ravines; the road is so rough, that no wagons can pass it. After having reached the highest point, an extensive plain is seen towards the south; and towards the west a small valley opens, in which new Placer, or Real del Tuesto, a town of about 100 buildings, is situated. ”

“ The fall of the river is seldom used as motive power, except for some flour mills, which are oftener worked by mules than by water. The principal advantage which is at present derived from the river is for agriculture, by their well managed system of irrigation. As to its navigation in New Mexico, I doubt very much if even canoes could be used, except perhaps during May or June, when the river is in its highest state, from the melting of the snow in the mountains. The river is entirely too shallow, and interrupted by too many sand bars, to promise anything for navigation. ”

“ About five miles west from here, at the foot of the mountains to our right, is a good spring, with running water, the so-called Ojo del Muerto. Whenever a traveller through the Jornada will not risk to rush through it in the shortest time, he drives his animals from here to the Ojo, and back to the road, because it is the only water to be depended upon. We left, therefore, all the wagons, with half of the men, in the camp, and the other half drove the whole stock of animals, from 400 to 500, to the Ojo. ”

“ Should the United States take possession of this country, the official leeches who consider themselves privileged to rule in those States will, of course, make some opposition–if not openly, at least by intrigue; but the mass of the people will soon perceive that they have gained by the change; and if to their national feelings some due regard is paid, they will after some years become reconciled to their new government, and, though Mexican still, they may nevertheless become good citizens of the Republic of the North. ”

“ The wood is compact and heavy, and here, where they grow but as shrubs, used only for fuel. The mezquite requires a sandy, dry soil, and is no doubt the most common tree in the high plains of Mexico. Pleased as I was with the first sight of the shrub, which I knew only by description, I soon got tired of it, when daily and hourly I saw it around me, and the more particularly when passing afterwards from Chihuahua to Monterey and Matamoros, through endless chaparrál, of which it forms the constant companion. ”

“ The grass was fresh as ever; the mountains, too, heretofore naked, cover themselves with a green coat of grass. This whole valley, or rather plain, from Paso to Chihuahua, seems fertile enough to raise many millions of stock, and in former times they raised large numbers; but at present the wild Indians are the lords of the country, and the Mexicans are becoming impoverished more and more.
Our noon camp is the highest point, according to my barometrical observations, on the road between Paso and Chihuahua; its elevation above the sea is 5,317 feet. ”

“ The soil in the valley of the Rio del Norte, in New Mexico, is generally sandy and looks poor, but by irrigation it produces abundant crops. Though agriculture is carried on in a very primitive way, with the hoe alone, or with a rough plough, made often entirely of wood, without any particle of iron, they raise large quantities of Indian corn and wheat, beans, onions, red peppers, and some fruits. The most fertile part of the valley begins below Santa Fe, along the river, and is called "rio abajo," or (the country) down the river. It is not uncommon there to raise two crops within one year. ”

“ A third, much neglected branch of industry in New Mexico are the mines. Great many now deserted mining places in New Mexico prove that mining was pursued with greater zeal in the old Spanish times than at present, which may be accounted for in various ways, as the present want of capital, want of knowledge in mining, but especially the unsettled state of the country and the avarice of its arbitrary rulers. The mountainous parts of New Mexico are very rich in gold, copper, iron, and some silver. ”

“ The Cimarron at our night camp is a fine running creek, with good grass, but without wood. The elevation of our night camp is 3,830 feet. To-morrow we shall leave the Cimarron entirely, for better regions. In looking back from here towards the Arkansas, it is hardly necessary to remark, that this whole country, from the crossing of the Arkansas to the crossing of the Cimarron, will never be settled, from the scantness of grass, the scarcity of water, and the entire want of wood. But westward from here we shall come to regions more favored by nature, and more accessible to human industry. ”

“ The valley in which Council Grove lies, affords peculiar advantages. It is better wooded than any other on this road. A strip from half a mile to one mile in width of timber skirts the water-course; the trees are full grown and of good size, and consist mostly of oak, hickory, walnut, elm, ash, etc. The vegetation is quite luxuriant, and the soil very fertile. For agriculture, as well as raising stock, the place would be excellent. The bluffs on both sides of Council Grove consist of a grayish argillaceous limestone, without fossils. ”

“ Policy, as well as humanity, demands, in my humble opinion, such an extension of the "area of freedom" for mankind. If deserts and mountain chains are wanted as the best barriers between States, this line affords both these advantages by the Bolson de Mapimi in the east, and the extensive Sierra Madre in the west. ”

“ On Rabbit ear creek I met for the first time with amygdaloidal basalt, a black, heavy, basaltic rock, with a great many irregular, vesicular cavities, that are generally hollow—sometimes, too, filled with lime; in rare instances, with olivin. This rock is most common throughout the high mountains of Mexico. It occurs in most irregular masses, in whole mountains, as well as in millions of pieces strewn over the surface of the country. Here it rose in high perpendicular walls, as bluffs of the creek, and a very compact quartzose sandstone was below in horizontal layer. ”

“ The greatest part of this territory has never been occupied or even explored by the Mexicans, and the thin population in the settled parts of it proves that they never had put great value upon it. The greater inducements which the South of Mexico offered on account of mines, climate, commerce, etc., have concentrated there the seven or eight millions of inhabitants that compose the Mexican nation, allowing but a small portion of them for the northern provinces. One half of this northern territory may in fact be a desert, and entirely worthless for agriculture ”

“ To develop all those resources which nature has bestowed upon these two States, another condition of things is wanted than at present prevails there: a just, stable, and strong government is, before all, needed, that can put down the hostile Indians, give security of person and property to all, allow free competition in all branches of industry, and will not tax the people higher than the absolute wants of the government require. Under such a government, the population, as well as the produce of the country, would increase at a rapid rate ”

“ The whole island is but one wide sheet of sand; never a tree or blade of grass has grown here; no other water is found but a brackish, half fresh, half salty liquid, from holes dug into the sand; no other faces are seen but those of stern officials, or of sly speculators, who would as soon go to Kamtschatka if they could make money there. ”

“ The judiciary power in New Mexico has always been as dependent as the governor was independent. Besides that, the clergy, as well as the military class, had their own courts of justice. In relation to the general government of Mexico, New Mexico has always maintained greater independence than most of the other States–partly from its distance from Mexico, and partly from the spirit of opposition in the inhabitants, who derived very little benefit from their connexion with the republic, and would therefore not be taxed without an equivalent. ”

“ The species of Echinocereus inhabit Texas and the northern parts of Mexico, where Cerei proper are very rare. They extend even farther north than the Echinocacti, but appear to be excluded from the old limits of the United States, where the cactus family is represented only by some Opuntiae and Mammillariae. The southern limits of the Echinocerei are unknown to me, but I doubt whether they extend far in that direction; the nearly-related Echinopses, on the contrary, appear to be exclusively inhabitants of South America, especially the La Plata countries. ”

“ New Mexico is a very mountainous country, with a large valley in the middle, running from north to south, and formed by the Rio del Norte. The valley is generally about 20 miles wide, and bordered on the east and west by mountain chains, continuations of the Rocky mountains, which have received here different names, as Sierra blanca, de los Organos, oscura, on the eastern side, and Sierra de los Grullas, de Acha, de los Mimbres, towards the west. ”