Robert Heywood

“ The greatest care is taken not to allow dogs to enter through the gate.
Within the Kremlin are contained all the most interesting and historically important buildings of Moscow, the holiest churches, with the tombs of the ancient Tzars, Patriarchs and Metropolitans, the remains of the ancient palace of the Tzars, the new one of the late Emperor, the arsenal, the senate house and architectural memorials of every period of Russian history, for every Russian monarch has held it his duty to adorn the Kremlin with some monument. ”

“ Nothing can be finer than the situation of this palace, commanding an extensive view of the Neva from Cronstadt to St. Petersburg, with beautiful waterworks, considered little inferior to those at Versailles, with a magnificent jet called the Sampson, a colossal bronze figure, tearing open the jaws of a lion, whence rushes the water from a height of 80 feet. ”

“ Much struck with the Bridge over the Rapids to the Goat Island. Then walked towards the ferry, an immense sheet of water though only a small part compared with the Horse Shoe; returned and crossed over to Goat Island down Biddle's Staircase between the two cascades; afterwards to the bridge that overhangs the tremendous Fall, a huge piece of rock below occasionally visible when the foam was blown away; the vast clouds of mist rising very considerably into the air, and the stream for a great distance as white as milk. ”

“ The Winter Palace, the most splendid and largest royal residence in the world, is 700 feet in length, three storeys high, and nearly square, and is said to have 6,000 persons under its roof during the Emperor's residence in the capital.
Among the extensive suite of apartments, galleries and halls filled with marbles, precious stones, vases, and pictures may be mentioned, first, the hall of St. George, where the Emperor gives audience to foreign ambassadors. It is 140 feet by 60 feet, on the splendour of which the Russians most pride themselves. ”

“ The cost of all this polishing and extreme attention is above 100,000 roubles yearly.
Very odd caprices are exhibited in the decoration of the grounds, several fanciful towers, a Dutch and Swiss cottage, a Gothic building, a marble bridge with Corinthian columns, bronze and other statues, and numerous monuments raised by Alexander to his companions in arms, intermingled with hermitages, artificial ruins, Roman tombs, grottoes and waterfalls.
Like almost all other royal buildings in Russia, Tzarskoe owes its origin to Peter the Great. ”

“ Paine, he said, had denounced it as a forgery, but various authors had mentioned the N.T. Burnett had quoted Lord Clarendon: the Old Testament was much older and was so called at the time the New Testament was published; the difficulty of procuring a copy before the art of printing, if the best, each should strive to get a copy, also read it and understand it, but above all practice it; not to be compared with a library even extending across the Atlantic, because the one only treated of this world, the other of that to come. ”

“ At half past six a lighthouse hoisted us a signal for a pilot. In about fifteen minutes a light was observed which the Captain said was from a pilot's boat. In 1⁄4 of an hour after the boat came up and sent off a small boat alongside, when a lusty pilot was at length pulled up into our ship. He brought a newspaper, Whitehaven, 15th July. Immediately the sail was hauled in so that it scarcely moved, though the gale had considerably increased; though a clumsy sort of fellow we all felt easier and no doubt shall sleep better. ”

“ Petersburg.
In some streets we come to a large palace and then to a wretched hovel. Another time we see a row of little cottages of one storey standing next to a stately mansion, and in other places little streets as in a country town.
In the centre of this vast collection of buildings is the Kremlin, situated on a hill nearly two miles in circumference; it is surrounded by high walls of stone and brick, with several towers and gates, the most important of which is the gate of the Redeemer. Over the arch of which is a picture of the Saviour, with a lamp constantly burning. ”

“ Whilst in catholic countries the churchgoers are mostly women; in Russia we find both sexes engaged in such duties.
On entering the church a wax candle is purchased, and sinking on one knee, bowing his head to the pavement and crossing his breast respectively with the thumb and the two forefingers of his right hand, the worshipper proceeds to the shrine itself, he lights his candle at the holy lamp, and sets it up in one of the numerous sockets in a large silver stand; then, falling low on his bended knee, kisses the pavement before the altar. ”

“ Had a good wind all night which continued till near ten, when a heavy shower of rain came on and the wind became unfavourable. A ship seen at a distance; passed two others early this morning. The wind continued unfavourable all day, also colder so that we all appeared depressed. Played two games with Mr. Bassnett and lost, then went on deck about ten and found the wind abated, but quite ahead. The Captain said he was quite sick of it. The curious phenomenon yesterday of the coloured water, is explained by some of the seamen supposing it to be the spawn of a whale. ”

“ After dinner drove through the town to Dr. H.'s garden about four miles; the grounds pretty and the walks delightful along the Hudson. Had another peep at the Hotel on the Catskill Mountain; the Dr. very kind and we spent the evening very pleasantly: Mr. J. looking better than in England and Mary taller, both greatly attached to the old country. Robert is married and living with Mrs. J., and Mrs. R. like all American wives appears delicate. A good deal said against the morals of the poor Americans, [96] no relying on their word, lax habits. Paid for the carriage three dollars. ”

“ In my several rambles over various parts of the Continent I have scarcely ever found any difficulty with a little knowledge of the French language in making myself understood, but here it was very different; in vain we addressed many respectable persons we met with in the streets respecting some public buildings, and we found every droshky man quite uncommunicative, so that directions had to be given at the hotel of our intended route, and if we changed our driver we managed to return by pointing the way, right or left. ”

“ A Northumbrian living at the top said America was the place for a poor man; 5 or 6 families came out before him, and only one had failed; and he had property. In some parts ascending the mountain the very worst road I have seen, one of the poor horses lost a shoe, but could have no help till we got to the end, 21 miles: arrived soon after eight, the horse being much less lame than could have been expected. At Columbus our crazy coach had to be girded as it had to go over a very dangerous ridge. We got safe to Berwick at 1⁄2 past 12, got coffee 25 cents; passage 13⁄4 dollars. ”

“ Large salt-works, the brine is pumped up and evaporated. Good coals are drawn out of the mountains on both sides of the valley, fine springs of gas escaping out of the surface which ignited on applying a live coal. The negroes said it would continue burning a week or two unless put out by rain.
Waited at Charleston nearly an hour and then found the coach filled with passengers, my seat particularly hot and disagreeable, so that I got outside; the driver refused to have more than one with him. ”

“ The king's palace, though very extensive, has a shabby appearance.
The state apartments are decorated with good paintings, tapestry, and large chandeliers of solid silver; and there is a beautiful chapel, with the floor ornamented with various marbles; also a library containing 500 Bibles in different languages and editions.
There is a most noble equestrian statue of Frederick the Great.
The Arsenal, a noble structure, containing arms arranged in excellent order for 200,000 men, probably like our guns at the Tower, more ornamental than efficient ”

“ Passed a pretty good night though the ship rolled a good deal at times; and I found the sea a good deal agitated. The wind continued to blow hard all day, the vessel rising and falling 10 or 12 yards. Sometimes one side nearly down at the water's edge, and rising up out of boiling foam. Early in the evening the dead-lights [5] , those at the stern, were made up lest a sea should rush through; the same with the skylights. The Captain said the gale was very unusual at this season of the year; talked of the vessel being more uneasy than she used to be. Captain Kenney now appeared on deck. ”

“ The tower of John the Great is more than 200 feet high, surmounted by a gilded dome, of which there are about 60 in the Kremlin.
In the first storey hangs a bell, which but for its mightier neighbour below would appear stupendous, being 60 tons.
To ring it is impossible; even to toll it requires the united strength of three men pulling with separate ropes the vast clapper ”

“ On the road I stept down to feel the Hot Spring which was hot indeed, I did not learn the degrees. Breakfasted at Maurice Hill. Drove over mountains chiefly covered with oaks and pines; the chief danger in crossing these mountains is the snapping of the drag chain. Dined nearly one mile from Sulphur Springs; a good deal of company; ran down to the spring, the water a sulphur taste. Took leave of fellow passengers consisting of an elderly lady and her daughter of the name of Parker of Philadelphia, a family from Baltimore ”

“ The great Riding School is one of the wonders of Moscow, being 560 feet long and 158 feet broad and 42 feet in height; supposed to be the largest room in the world unsupported by pillars or props of any kind. ”

“ What must be the situation of the poor steerage passengers, about 100 adults and a numerous set of children? A very happy circumstance for us rather than the proprietors is that we have only nine passengers, so each can have a double berth to himself, a very great comfort indeed, especially when it becomes warm weather. ”

“ From the gardens we proceeded to the original wooden palace, or cottage of Peter the Great, situated on one of the islands.
It consists of three small rooms, one his bedroom, another his reception room, and a third his chapel, where the pictures he worshipped are carefully preserved. Many relics are still to be seen, a boat and sails, with an old armchair, all which are said to have been made by his own hands. ”

“ Shown through the house, saw the key of the Bastille presented to Washington by T. Paine, also the Library as left by W. Then visited the Tomb, a very plain brick front with an iron door more like an oven. Walked through the garden back to the house; partook of some cake and wine.
Some parts of the road very rough; lost our track for some time; very few people, only now and then a negro to ask. Got back just in time to dinner and escaped the rain and thunder being the 4th successive night. Learned that something interesting was going on at the Capitol, as several members were hastening to it. ”

“ Cold all day and the wind quite contrary. Six or seven stormy petrels seen at once, and now and then a gull. Towards evening we discerned a brig which we found was sailing before us; she had little sail, and appeared to wish to speak to us, but did not come sufficiently near. It has been one of the disagreeable days, very cold with adverse wind and all our spirits depressed; several of our passengers are out of health. Mr. Webster complained of a boil on his ear; also Mr. Jackson of earache; Captain Kenney has a bad cold, and Mr. Bassnett a bad digestion. ”