Robert Heywood

“ Shown through the house, saw the key of the Bastille presented to Washington by T. Paine, also the Library as left by W. Then visited the Tomb, a very plain brick front with an iron door more like an oven. Walked through the garden back to the house; partook of some cake and wine.
Some parts of the road very rough; lost our track for some time; very few people, only now and then a negro to ask. Got back just in time to dinner and escaped the rain and thunder being the 4th successive night. Learned that something interesting was going on at the Capitol, as several members were hastening to it. ”

“ Paine, he said, had denounced it as a forgery, but various authors had mentioned the N.T. Burnett had quoted Lord Clarendon: the Old Testament was much older and was so called at the time the New Testament was published; the difficulty of procuring a copy before the art of printing, if the best, each should strive to get a copy, also read it and understand it, but above all practice it; not to be compared with a library even extending across the Atlantic, because the one only treated of this world, the other of that to come. ”

“ On the road I stept down to feel the Hot Spring which was hot indeed, I did not learn the degrees. Breakfasted at Maurice Hill. Drove over mountains chiefly covered with oaks and pines; the chief danger in crossing these mountains is the snapping of the drag chain. Dined nearly one mile from Sulphur Springs; a good deal of company; ran down to the spring, the water a sulphur taste. Took leave of fellow passengers consisting of an elderly lady and her daughter of the name of Parker of Philadelphia, a family from Baltimore ”

“ A Northumbrian living at the top said America was the place for a poor man; 5 or 6 families came out before him, and only one had failed; and he had property. In some parts ascending the mountain the very worst road I have seen, one of the poor horses lost a shoe, but could have no help till we got to the end, 21 miles: arrived soon after eight, the horse being much less lame than could have been expected. At Columbus our crazy coach had to be girded as it had to go over a very dangerous ridge. We got safe to Berwick at 1⁄2 past 12, got coffee 25 cents; passage 13⁄4 dollars. ”

“ Cold all day and the wind quite contrary. Six or seven stormy petrels seen at once, and now and then a gull. Towards evening we discerned a brig which we found was sailing before us; she had little sail, and appeared to wish to speak to us, but did not come sufficiently near. It has been one of the disagreeable days, very cold with adverse wind and all our spirits depressed; several of our passengers are out of health. Mr. Webster complained of a boil on his ear; also Mr. Jackson of earache; Captain Kenney has a bad cold, and Mr. Bassnett a bad digestion. ”

“ Had a good wind all night which continued till near ten, when a heavy shower of rain came on and the wind became unfavourable. A ship seen at a distance; passed two others early this morning. The wind continued unfavourable all day, also colder so that we all appeared depressed. Played two games with Mr. Bassnett and lost, then went on deck about ten and found the wind abated, but quite ahead. The Captain said he was quite sick of it. The curious phenomenon yesterday of the coloured water, is explained by some of the seamen supposing it to be the spawn of a whale. ”

“ Large salt-works, the brine is pumped up and evaporated. Good coals are drawn out of the mountains on both sides of the valley, fine springs of gas escaping out of the surface which ignited on applying a live coal. The negroes said it would continue burning a week or two unless put out by rain.
Waited at Charleston nearly an hour and then found the coach filled with passengers, my seat particularly hot and disagreeable, so that I got outside; the driver refused to have more than one with him. ”

“ At half past six a lighthouse hoisted us a signal for a pilot. In about fifteen minutes a light was observed which the Captain said was from a pilot's boat. In 1⁄4 of an hour after the boat came up and sent off a small boat alongside, when a lusty pilot was at length pulled up into our ship. He brought a newspaper, Whitehaven, 15th July. Immediately the sail was hauled in so that it scarcely moved, though the gale had considerably increased; though a clumsy sort of fellow we all felt easier and no doubt shall sleep better. ”

“ Our live stock very considerable, consisting of a cow for milk, sheep, turkeys, geese, ducks, hens, etc. Got up at 61⁄2, a fine morning. Breakfast at 8, of fish, beef, mutton, omelettes, tea and coffee. A file of New York papers had been left in the night by an American packet. Found the steerage passengers had a place like the Black Hole of Calcutta, the foolish people not consenting to have their trunks, etc., removed below. ”

“ After dinner drove through the town to Dr. H.'s garden about four miles; the grounds pretty and the walks delightful along the Hudson. Had another peep at the Hotel on the Catskill Mountain; the Dr. very kind and we spent the evening very pleasantly: Mr. J. looking better than in England and Mary taller, both greatly attached to the old country. Robert is married and living with Mrs. J., and Mrs. R. like all American wives appears delicate. A good deal said against the morals of the poor Americans, [96] no relying on their word, lax habits. Paid for the carriage three dollars. ”

“ A good deal of conversation at breakfast respecting various kinds of fruit. America it seems is well supplied with tropical fruit. Finished Lander's "Travels in Africa"; also read before Fergusson's "Canadian Tour." The breeze refreshing though not altogether favourable, much better than a calm. Mr. Bassnett proposed as a wager, that he would throw doublets ones to sixes in succession in ten minutes, which he accomplished in seven; he also surprised us by taking up the dice by means only of the boxes. The wind continued [14] favourable all day. ”

“ The house pleasantly situated on the slope of a hill on a good road; nearly 80 acres 30 chains on each side of the road; a good spring of water near the house; seven cows, two horses, pigs, geese and poultry and guinea-hens. The breakfast consists of coffee, bread and butter, eggs, beef or mutton with buck wheat cakes resembling crumpets also blackberry pies and potatoes; nearly the same at dinner, and again at supper with tea. Make their own sugar from the maple; a hole is bored into the trees ”

“ Passed a pretty good night though the ship rolled a good deal at times; and I found the sea a good deal agitated. The wind continued to blow hard all day, the vessel rising and falling 10 or 12 yards. Sometimes one side nearly down at the water's edge, and rising up out of boiling foam. Early in the evening the dead-lights [5] , those at the stern, were made up lest a sea should rush through; the same with the skylights. The Captain said the gale was very unusual at this season of the year; talked of the vessel being more uneasy than she used to be. Captain Kenney now appeared on deck. ”

“ The greater part of the negroes are slaves; one 40 years of age, worth 400 or 450 dollars; not allowed to remain here when freed; frequently bought by dealers who chain them together; the worst are generally disposed of first.
FRIDAY, JUNE 27TH.
Rested very well; rose at half past three and set off at four; the road worse than any existing coal pit road I ever saw in England, full of ruts with stony rocks and stumps of wood projecting. Arrival at Gordonville to breakfast at six; paid 50 cents which I could not grudge as the coffee was very good. ”

“ Work begins at five, then 1⁄2 hour for breakfast, 3⁄4 of an hour for dinner, stopping at seven, making 123⁄4 hours each day, and Saturdays the same; the boys and men well dressed, the girls and women in neat gowns and hoods. The bells larger and of different tones as if for worship. The coach promised for two, did not arrive so I came off in another and got to Boston at half past seven. Paid for fare both ways 21⁄2 dollars. This has been one of the most disagreeable hot dusty days I have experienced. Found a letter this morning from James Dean. ”

“ Poor quiet Joseph should have taken his brother's advice, put his money out to interest and with two houses at Providence he might have been comfortable. Five children, all at home. Left at three and called at a cotton mill about three miles off, and found John Makinson, Noah's eldest son, superintendent, married about a year ago to a pleasant sort of girl, that had worked with and known the family; the house [73] well furnished; she set to and baked bread for tea, this caused us to be later than we intended. ”

“ Very warm but luckily only 4 passengers. The last drive of 15 miles has been very warm and a rough road, yet the horses do not appear much distressed; got a glass of buttermilk. Dined at Waterford; paid 25 cents. The stage filled; the sun had got to my side of the coach; a slow drive and choked with dust, by far the most disagreeable ride I have had. Got to Erie at half past four, told there was no boat to Buffalo till morning. I went upstairs to wash and put on a clean shirt, and was then informed of a boat, but I could not get ready in time ”

“ Seaton said a lieutenant. One of the seamen sounded ringing the number of fathoms. A little before ten a pilot came on board, said they could not get down sooner for want of wind, had been towed out some part by a steamer. Several pilots came in one boat, and brought two newspapers. Let go the anchor soon after ten to stem the tide. The cow seemed to recognize the land, poking out her head and snuffing the land breeze. ”

“ Perspired much in the night; got up and dried myself with a towel; not much alarmed as my pulse strong and regular; perhaps it beats high in the thought that I am now at the most distant point from home.
Mr. Hulme called upon me and walked towards the steam boats; presented me with a chart of the Ohio. Called upon Joseph Monks, he sat with me on the steamer, then left and sent me six bottles of cyder. I promised him to write about their family. Left at 12 instead of 10. The table drawn out in a curious manner, a snack consisting of tongue, ham, almonds and raisins. ”

“ Sensibly warmer and consequently most of the steerage passengers appeared on deck. Much pleased with a number of porpoises swimming alongside of us for a mile or two. A good deal of talk with Captain Kenney about the English nobility, etc., and also with Captain Sketchley, who said he had been more than 40 years at sea, chiefly between Liverpool and New York. His family resides in Liverpool on account of Mrs. S. who [9] could not bear the extremes of the American climate. Find fresh faces on board, most of them have part of their family already gone to America. ”

“ Another son at Louisville keeping a coffee house. Walked with Mr. Monks to the College and heard two orations, vehement and abusive of the old country, lauding France and even Spain, the latter on account of Isabella who patronized Columbus, eulogised Bonaparte and declaimed against Russia for the treatment of the Poles; several negroes were peeping at the three doorways, but not allowed to enter or even to listen to an oration in favour of liberty.
Paid 51⁄2 dollars to Louisville. At home I am considered a quick eater, but here I have not half done before most have left the room. ”

“ Commenced reading Hamilton's [33] "Men and Manners in America"; would be very cold but for the sunshine. A good wind all day; sail reduced towards evening in expectation of a gale, but it went off.
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 2ND.
Passed a restless night, the ship rolling a good deal; dreaming that my father was at Bury attending one of our religious meetings, wearing one of my ruffled shirts. I found we had been getting on, 8 or 9 knots till about five, since only 5 or 6, but should be thankful having had nearly a week's good run. About 4 knots all forenoon; at 12 a little more wind with some rain. ”

“ Jackson told the Captain last night that he lost his father last 29th May, surely this circumstance will help him to a little more steadiness but this was hardly the case, excepting as occasioned by yesterday's debauch. Mr. Seaton says [18] bastardy is not so common in America but always charged to the father. Mr. Cayley takes no exercise, says he never walks on ship, eats a good deal of animal food; a very bad system, either exercise or abstinence is essentially necessary. ”

“ James Dean set off to meet the man; the portmanteau was placed on; drove rapidly down just in time. Got on board the North America, found many hundreds of passengers. Charged to Albany only 50 cents just what I was to pay for being brought to the steamer; an immense steamer, the Captain said 400 or 500 passengers; a much smaller number than usual. A quick way of putting out and taking in passengers: the boat is lowered, they take a long rope and steer to the landing-place, then haul in towards the steamer which scarcely stops. ”

“ On getting up felt qualmish and took a little coffee, but was soon forced to part with it. The wind increased with heavy rain so that all of us but Mr. Frankland (a Quaker) became sick. Took a little soup upstairs but did not keep it long. Remained in the small house till eight. I think I would have escaped better but for the sudden rough weather. The Americans reckon to admire ladies of slender make and pale faces. Mrs. Dean said she knew a young healthy blooming robust girl from England, who had recourse to large quantities of vinegar ”

“ Travelled through a narrow path covered with brushwood; came to the summit where an immense mass of coal is worked like an open stone quarry; the coal is taken away on rails to Mauch Chunk and then by canal to Philadelphia, etc., etc. The waggon and cars are let down by one man who can move a drag upon each by means of a connecting rope, and the mules [88] also ride down to draw up the empty waggons. Descended in 45 minutes 40 miles. Mauch Chunk most romantically situated at the foot of the mountains almost overhanging the town. Left my friend the priest. ”

“ A great deal of marble used in the cellar steps of inferior houses. At dinner had only some boiled mutton and peas which I found very good, also a little tart and some strawberries. I think of declining to take wine and I am advised to try cyder, but find it not good, physicy. Took coffee instead of tea, and found it excellent. Two blacks employed in driving away the flies that are getting numerous. A mocking bird that sings most of the night.
SATURDAY, JUNE 14TH.
Rose half past six. A delightful morning after the rain. Had a walk down street before breakfast. ”

“ Passed a quiet night, found it raining which we fear may [17] lead to a change of the wind which still continues rather favourable. Continued heavy rain till nearly eleven then cleared up and the wind increased, but not favourable taking us too much to the south instead of crossing the Gulf Stream. It is usual to go over the banks of Newfoundland but the Captain feared the icebergs. ”

“ Paid 6 dollars to Columbus; nobody but a French woman and her child for ten miles. Here at Reading whilst changing horses I got some most excellent bread, butter and milk for which I paid 121⁄2 cents. This seems a better conveyance than the old crazy steamer. Took a cup of buttermilk for which they would not receive anything. A truly corduroy road, that is logs of wood laid across the road. Nearly upset into the river by running against a tree. Arrived at Lebanon 1⁄4 before 7. This last stage to Wainville, the driver drove [49] most furiously and the horses went like mad. ”