Auguste Marie Léon Descharmes

“ Outside the tank, in the inner court of the inn, a small pond has been made from the cooled water, and there may be seen gold fish living in a temperature of 35° (centigrade) .
Ikao is surrounded by woods, and the temperature of the air is very pleasant. In this place a summer might very comfortably be passed, because here are fewer invalids than at Kusatsu, and the surrounding country is much more varied in scenery and picturesqueness. Besides this you are only one day’s journey from Takasaki, where whatever may be wanted can be procured from Yedo. ”

“ Irritation of the skin more or less acute almost invariably accompanies the treatment. It is well to intermit the baths for a few days in case this irritation becomes very severe and to wash the parts most affected with white rice water. After a stay of proper duration at Kusatzu it is customary to pass a few days at the neighbouring villages the waters of which have the property of allaying the irritation produced by the waters of Kusatsu. When the skin is irritated, and in general, it is not well on coming out of the waters of Kusatzu to rub it with force as is customary among Europeans. ”

“ It is difficult to find an inn where one is not annoyed by a large number of them.
If this itinerary is followed, you will have travelled upon the Reiheishi kaidô in almost its whole length. As I already have had occasion to remark in the itinerary from Tôkei to Kusatsu, the Reiheishi kaidô separates itself from the Nakasendô (or Kisokaidô) at Honjô, passes thence directly northwards, over the Tonegawa, and continues its northerly direction as far as the village of Goriô, the point where we again meet the road in coming from Takasaki. ”

“ I give it hereafter for information, with the addition of only one detail which may interest the tourist, viz: that if you have undertaken a journey at a season when the rivers are swollen in consequence of rains or melted snow, it is easy to return to Yedo in an agreeable way and without much fatigue. For this purpose you stop at the large village of Koga, on an important tributary of the Tonegawa, and here you can hire boats that carry you in ten or twelve hours to Yedo and even to Nipponbashi, thanks to the magnificent canal which unites the Tonegawa with the Ô-kawa not far from the sea. ”

“ In order to take the bath, the water must not be entered at once. The skin must first be moistened with a towel or sponge soaked in the warm water; the hands, feet, armpits and breast. The hair must be allowed to float unfettered (this is for the natives and for women) and a hishaku (dipper) should be used to pour water over the knees, shoulders and head. Only after this preparation should the bath be entered. It is not well to remain too long immersed. If this is done the blood mounts to the head, the lungs become congested, vertigo ensues and consciousness is lost. ”

“ All this country (Musashi no Kuni) is rich and well cultivated. The mulberry grows in abundance, as do maize, various cereals, rice, and cotton. Tea is but little produced and is of an inferior quality.
Leaving Kumnagae, an arm of the Todagawa is passed, much diminished in summer, but which, judged by the breadth and rugged appearance of its bed, must be a formidable torrent at certain times of the year. Between the arm of the Todagawa and Honjô, towards a point named Okabé, the traveller leaves the basin of Todagawa to pass into that of the Tonegawa. ”

“ Be it at it may, the coolness and salubrity of the climate of Kusatsu during the hot months of the year are incontestable, and its comparative proximity to Yedo and Yokohama will consequently attract travellers or European invalids who, even though they may neglect the use of waters still little known to our medical practitioners, will find there during several months the temperature and bracing air of the mountainous parts of Central Europe. ”

“ The springs of drinking water are numerous and very various in the midst of a confusion of waters of all kinds. Some are passable, others very good and pains must be taken to find them. Near the Nakagawa inn there is on excellent one with water at 11°.5 and oven 10°, slightly aperient in its effects, but it may be taken in any quantity with impunity. ”

“ Earthquakes seem rare and the inhabitants show their indifference to them by building houses of two stories, which recall the châlets of Switzerland. Roofs are at a very open angle and weighted with large stones. This peculiar feature is observable from Sannokura. The inhabitants leave Kusatsu at the end of October and return towards the middle of May. During the winter months a sufficient number of men to guard the house is left. The snow is said not to exceed three feet in thickness, and the inhabitants only move to a distance of 2 or 3 ri, where they find a tolerable climate. ”

“ These springs are nearly all concentrated in a kind of tank so commanded by the hills, that from the village itself none of the interesting scenery of the neighbourhood can be seen. But as you ascend the surrounding slopes to the south east, the remarkable summit of Asamayama comes into view, the foot of which is only 6 ri distant, and towards the east and north east, a chain of wood-clad mountains, which, without possessing the imposing character of the Alps or Pyrenees, are not wanting in a certain grandeur and present considerable attractions to pedestrians. ”

“ Before entering upon this technical portion of my task which may not interest all my readers, I shall conclude this paper by observing that according to the national traditions these waters of Kusatsu and their virtues were discovered from 1000 to 1100 years back. The peasants were the first to make experiments with them. But subsequently, Yoritomo, hunting one day in the neighbourhood of Asamayama, and having fallen sick, heard from one of the peasants of their singular virtues. ”

“ The animals travel 9 ri per day over very bad roads. The hind feet are unshod; on the fore feet the waraji is fastened. They boldly face the steepest gradients and descend the worst paths being guided solely by the voice, the simple bridle in the mouth being used only to stop them. The mares are singularly good-tempered, are well treated by the peasants, nor have I ever been witness of a single act of brutality. ”

“ ITINERARY OF A JOURNEY FROM KUSATSU
TO NIKKÔ, AND FROM NIKKÔ TO TÔKIO.
From Kusatsu to Nikkô you may pass directly over the mountains, but according to the information I have gathered this route is difficult. The paths are scarcely visible, and you are not sure of being able to procure coolies and beasts of burden. ”

“ The Japanese enclose it in long boxes of rectangular form, wherein it is packed in bundles placed vertically.
Beyond Kameyama the transport of goods is performed on the backs of men, horses or oxen. The country is stocked with mares; entire horses are in general excluded. In the same manner more cows than bulls are to be seen. The pack-horses are quiet, coarse and capable of supporting great fatigue. The shape of the back which resembles that of the mule enables them to carry enormous loads. ”

“ Nor was I able to determine the elevation of the place, and I only use the figures 1500 to 1600 metres for the altitude of Kusatsu as pure supposition, without attaching further value to them.
Itinerary.
Before entering upon any detail it may be well to state that the traveller can go in a carriage and in one day from Yedo to Takasaki (about 25 ri.) There is even a native service between the two points. The road is often in bad order, and the carriages are inferior. In journeying by short stages the following is the itinerary which I should recommend, and which I myself followed. ”

“ The disease is virtually incurable, and the severest treatment arrests its course but slightly. Its frighful effects in Japan must be known to all.)
In conclusion, the sick of all the provinces (of Japan) who require to take the waters can go to Kusatzu when they will. The inhabitants return to the mountain on the 8th day of the 4th month of each year (May) . Still it would be an error to imagine that the place can only be visited at that time. If a malady takes a very aggravated form, the waters may be taken from Shôgatsu (January—February) and even before this. ”

“ In the neighbouring mountains there are certain peaks which may easily be ascended, among others Shiraneyama, but they afford only a small interest, the weather being rarely clear enough to afford a fine distant view. ”

“ In four or five days the trouble disappears and the sight becomes stronger than before the period of treatment. In general every species of malady seems to increase at the commencement of the treatment. ”

“ They are thus bearable and even in the middle of the day walking produces no distress. There were frequent storms during the month of August, but the rains were moderate and generally short. The appetite soon becomes stimulated, remains good, exercise is felt to be agreeable, and sleep profound and restorative. Mosquitoes are unknown and flies rare in airy houses. ”

“ The weight of the burden fixed by the Government is 32 kan which, at 4 kilos per kan is 128 kilos, but generally they are loaded with three bags of rice each weighing 16 kan or a total of 48 kan equal to 192 kilos, an almost incredible weight. ”

“ From Habashi to Nikkô. 5 ri.
The whole of this part of the route can be done in jinrikisha. The ground is generally level, and several rivers must be passed. Before Shiba is reached (fourth day) a large tributary of the Tonegawa is met with. The bed of this river is very broad, and its current rapid.
The traveller passes through very important villages, Ota, Sano, Tochigi and Kanuma. These large centres are not very agreeable; the inhabitants are as yet not accustomed to see foreign travellers there, and it is rather difficult to obtain a lodging. ”