Robert K. Macadam

“ Being the wood cousin of the field mushroom (A. campester) it deserves more than ordinary attention. It is found during months which do not favor the growth of the mushroom. It is equally good, though not so fleshy. It gives the true mushroom flavor to less flavored edible species when cooked with them.
When seen at a distance, growing in the woods, it has the appearance of an Amanita, but the color of the gills, which are never white after the cap opens and become as the spores ripen a blackish brown, distinguishes it at once. Neither has it a volva. ”

“ Any toadstool with white or lemon-yellow gills, casting white spores when laid—gills downward—upon a sheet of paper, having remnants of a fugitive skin in the shape of scabs or warts upon the upper surface of its cap, with a veil or ring, or remnants or stains of one, having at the base of its stem—in the ground—a loose, skin-like sheath surrounding it, or remnants of one, should never be eaten until the collector is thoroughly conversant with the technicalities of every such species, or has been taught by one whose authority is well known, that it is a harmless species. ”

“ In many of the reports of poisoning by mushrooms in man no mention of the species is made. In all these cases many kinds have been mixed together in preparing them for the table and it has never been known how many of the poisonous and how many of the edible ones have been eaten by any one individual partaking of the dish. Of course the fluid in which they are cooked contains some of the poison. This explains why some patients recover after having eaten several mushrooms while others die from a part of one only. ”

“ In the American plant, so far as I have seen it, erect, acute scales are always present, especially on the disk, and the down of the pileus does not always break up into distinct areas or scales. Neither is the stem usually scaly, but rather clothed with soft tomentose or almost silky fibrils. The gills are crowded and some of them are forked. At the furcations there are slight depressions which interrupt the general level of the edges, and give them the appearance of having been eaten by insects. The plant has a slight odor, especially when cut or bruised. ”

“ When growing singly from roots or from ground heavily charged with decaying wood, it is a sturdy, solid plant; when in clusters the stem is longer, more flexible and the whole character of the plant is modified. Except for botanic purposes there is no occasion to puzzle over it. It is in every way an excellent and useful fungus.
H. disper ́sus Fr.—dispergo, to scatter. Pileus 1–11⁄2 in. broad, tawny-honey-color, not hygrophanous, slightly fleshy, bell-shaped then convex, at length expanded, even, superficially silky round the margin with the veil, or squamulose, otherwise even and smooth. ”

“ In their youth, when in or just appearing above the ground, they are completely invested with a membrane or universal veil, which is distinct and free from the skin of the cap. As the plant grows the membrane stretches and finally bursts. It sometimes ruptures in one place only and remains about the base of the stem as the volva. When such a rupture occurs the caps are smooth. In most species portions of the volva remain upon the cap as scruff or warts—pointed or rough—or as feathery adornment; any or all of which may in part or whole vanish with age or be washed away by rain. ”

“ A nauseous, fetid odor should condemn a species as non-edible at once. Those having the flavor of flour or fresh meal are generally accepted as worthy of trial. Slimy, water-soaked, partially decomposed plants, or those impressing one as unpleasant in any way, should never find their place upon the table. Do not eat of any toadstool, unknown to the collector, beyond the careful and systematic testing required to determine whether it is edible or not. ”

“ The need of the mycologist, mycophagist and amateur toadstool student is a book giving the genus, names and descriptions of the prominent American toadstools whose edibility has been tested, or whose poisonous qualities have been discovered. The absence of such a book, and the universal and rapidly-growing interest all over the United States in edible fungi, have led to the publication of the present work, which includes every species known to be esculent in North America. ”

“ The Fat pholiota is a showy species. Its tufted mode of growth, rather large size, yellow color and rusty-brown scales make it a noticeable object. The stem is somewhat and the cap very viscid when moist, and this viscidity when dry gives it a shining appearance. The scales of the cap become erect or reflexed and sometimes appear blackish at the tips. They sometimes disappear with age. The flesh is firm and white or whitish. The gills when young are yellow or pale-yellow, but when mature they assume a ferruginous or rusty color like that of the spores. ”

“ The Chinese have placed some species in their fathomless materia medica, while the Polyporus of the locust tree is used in America as a medicine for horses. No fungoid growth is more universal. They are the ever active pruners of our trees and converters of forest debris. They begin the task in Nature’s laboratory of changing decaying wood into assimilable shape as food to feed the very trees that dropped it. Some are of annual growth, others add to their substance year after year, often attaining enormous size. ”

“ From the description by Fries, the author of the genus, it is manifest that one has to wait the ripening of the fungus before the peculiar characteristic mark of the genus, i. e.—gills turning into a waxy mass, easily removable from the cap—can be observed. Many of the species are difficult to determine when fresh. Nevertheless, there is an indescribable, watery, waxy, translucent appearance about the gills which catches the eye of the expert, and is soon learned by the novice. The white spores readily separate the genus from kindred shapes in the colored-spored genera. ”

“ Many persons have died from eating very small quantities.
Because of its ovate or button-like form when young, it is frequently mistaken for the common field mushroom; even experienced mycophagists have been deceived by it. No other poison has so puzzled scientists. Other varieties of fungi may interfere with digestion, but to the Amanitæ all deaths from toadstool-eating are traceable. Its subtle alkaloid is absorbed by the system, and in most cases lies unsuspected for from six to twelve hours, then its iron grip holds to the death. For centuries it has defied all remedies. ”

“ The removal of the skin of any toadstool is seldom justifiable. As with the apple and most fruits, the largest amount of flavor is in the skin.
By the consistency of the species in hand, decide upon the best method of cooking it and the time and medium required. If it is thin, juicy, tender, from five to ten minutes' slow stewing will be ample; if it is thick, dry, tough, from thirty to forty minutes will be required. After any species is cooked tender, it may be seasoned to one’s liking and served as one chooses. ”

“ Experiments made by the writer in West Virginia where the species grows luxuriantly and is of much higher flavor than any he has found elsewhere, prove that it is easy to transplant within congenial habitats, either by the mycelium or spores. Nature, there, resorts to washing masses of leaves containing the propagating parts of the fungus along the depressions of the water-sheds, and it is found growing plentifully where the wind has drifted forest leaves against trees, brush, and fence-corners. ”

“ The pedicellate spores constitute the peculiar feature of this species. It is one which suggests the name and which enables the species to be easily distinguished from all its allies. The spore is terminally and persistently attached to the pedicel, as in some species of Bovista. The plant is sometimes sessile, but usually it is narrowed below into a stem-like base. In the immature state it has a rough, shaggy appearance, but the spines shrivel with age so that it appears less rough when old. The pitted surface of the denuded peridium affords a mark of distinction from L. echinatum. ”

“ I have said that there is but one way to distinguish the edible from the non-edible fungi; that is by mastering the characteristics of each species one by one. There are signs which point to the evil and those which point to the good, but they must be used as signals, not directors. ”

“ The occasional bitter taste of some species is not constant, and can not be relied upon as a distinguishing mark. In the same tufts some individuals may be mild, others bitter; some individuals in groups are in a position and of an age to absorb water; others are not. There will be a marked difference in their taste raw. A few in the same group may have been infested by insects; others not. Those infested are often intensely bitter, while their companions are of pleasant flavor. The same remarks apply to neighboring clusters and individuals. ”

“ The genus belongs to the Ochrosporæ or ochraceous-spored series, but the spores of its species vary in color from ochraceous or tawny-ochraceous to rust-color or brownish-rust color. The three things to be especially kept in mind in order to recognize the species are the color of the spores, the adnate or decurrent but not clearly sinuate gills and the fleshy or fibrously fleshy stem without a membranous ring.
Our species are mostly of medium size, none being very small and one only meriting the appellation large. ”

“ They are not pot-hunters; they care much less for the physical pleasure of the appetite than for the close study of Nature that their inclination leads them into. Some day the delights of a mushroom hunt along lush pastures and rich woodlands will take the rank of the gentlest craft among those of hunting, and may perchance find its own Izaak Walton. ”

“ West Virginia, North Carolina, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, McIlvaine.
The numerous varieties with their peculiarities here given by Professor Peck will enable the finder of a Boletus with a distinctly scabrous stem—roughened with scales, not reticulate—to select its name. For the mycophagist it is enough to know that he has Boletus scaber. In all of its varieties it is edible. The stems, often the tubes, unless young, should be discarded, as they do not cook in the same time as the caps. The comparative excellence of the species rests with the devourer. It deserves a high place. ”

“ I have determined so many of the reputed poisonous species to be edible, that unless positively authenticated, I do not accept repute as truth, but carefully test suspicious species upon myself. When sure there is no danger, I as carefully have them tested by my numerous under-tasters—male and female. ”

“ Another deadly species—the Amanita phalloides—is frequently mistaken by the inexperienced for the common mushroom. Safety lies in the strict observance of two rules: Never eat a toadstool found in the woods or shady places, believing it to be the common mushroom. Never eat a white- or yellow-gilled toadstool in the same belief. The common mushroom does not grow in the woods, and its gills are at first pink, then purplish-brown or black. ”

“ The color of the pileus varies from yellowish-brown to reddish-brown or umber. A disagreeable odor is sometimes present. The tubes are rather short and tough and do not easily separate from the hymenophore and from each other. In the young plant they are not separable. They sometimes become slightly blue where wounded. As in other species they are pale yellow when young, but become darker or dingy-ochraceous with age. The spores have been described as bright yellow, but I do not find them so in the New York plant. ”

“ The time for writing a complete flora of the United States has not yet come; a large part of the country remains as yet unexplored by mycologists; new species are being constantly discovered in the districts best known. Every book on the subject must be necessarily incomplete.
On the other hand, so far as concerns the known fungus-flora, there is imperative need of some guide to the student, which shall at least save him some part of the weary toil of hunting through the scattered xxviiliterature in which alone, as things are at present, can be found the information he seeks. ”

“ The gills are always attached to the stem, and usually run down it. They are not notched next to the stem as in Tricholoma.
Like Tricholoma, Clitocybe has many species, most of which are common, and are probably edible. I therefore give Professor Peck’s description of all Clitocybes thus far submitted to him.
I know of but one species which is injurious to some persons—Clitocybe illudens. Many eat and enjoy it. It does not agree with others. A few untried species are suspicious to a like extent. Clitocybe illudens possesses the property of phosphorescence. ”

“ Tons of them annually go to waste.
Old authors and some copyists say “the species are not edible, the tough ones being bitter, the fragile ones almost void of flesh.” Eighteen years of experience with them warrants my saying that there is not a single wild genus approaching it in economic value, and when its most prominent species are properly cooked, few equal it in consistency and flavor. As a pickle the Hypholomas have no superior.
354Half a dozen or more of the species are exceedingly difficult to separate. Professor Peck has happily made a new species, H. perplexum, which is well named. ”

“ The caps when mature are usually tinged with yellow and are spread flat; the ring is large, often double, yellowish, often torn, fragments of it frequently hang from the cap margin; the bulb when 344perfect is small, abrupt, as if it had once been round but the stem pushed into it. It has a strong spicy mushroom odor and taste, and makes a high-flavored dish. It is delicious with meats. It is the very best mushroom for catsup. Mixed with Russulæ or Lactarii or other species lacking in mushroom flavor, it enriches the entire dish. The stems, excepting of the very young, are tough. ”

“ So far as the species are known no poisonous one exists. But Amanita spreta Pk., which is deadly, so closely resembles forms of Amanitopsis that those confident of their knowledge will be deceived. The veil or traces of veil, which Amanita spreta always has, sometimes so adheres to and wraps the stem that it is not noticeable without close examination, thus giving to it every appearance of an Amanitopsis. ”

“ Flesh is tender. Cooked, of good body and peculiar but pleasant flavor. A valuable species, baked, scalloped, fried.
T. terri ́ferum Pk.—terra, earth; fero, to bear. Pileus broadly convex or nearly plane, irregular, often wavy on the margin, glabrous, viscid, pale-yellow, generally soiled with adhering particles of earth carried up in its growth. Flesh white, with no decided odor. Gills thin, crowded, slightly adnexed, white, not spotted or changeable. Stem equal, short, solid, white, floccose-squamulose at the apex. Spores minute, subglobose, 3μ. ”

“ Carefully remove the first toadstool found from whatever it is growing upon, and with it a portion of that from which it springs. If it is the earth a curious white network is discernible, fine as the delicate spinning of the spider, spreading its meshes throughout the mass. ”

“ No one will want a better fungus.
M. rugo ́sa Fr.—ruga, a wrinkle. Pileus ash-color but becoming pale, very tough, slightly fleshy at the disk, otherwise membranaceous, bell-shaped then expanded, at length rather plane, somewhat obtuse, more or less corrugated (unequal with elevated wrinkles) , always dry, not moist even in rainy weather, striate at the circumference. Stem commonly short, remarkably cartilaginous, tubed, rigid, tough, straight, at length compressed, even, smooth, pallid, with a short oblique hairy root. ”

“ Hundreds upon hundreds of recipes for cooking the common mushroom and the few other fungi heretofore eaten, are at hand. The simpler methods—those which retain the natural flavor of the species cooked—are the best.
When a species has good body, and but little flavor, it may be made delicious by cooking with it another species of higher flavor. ”

“ It is an outsider affiliating with thoroughbreds because of more technical congeniality than other genera afford. Like comets in the universe, it has no home. The singular genus Montagnites (of which but one species has been found in America, and that in Texas) has the relationship of spore-color. Panæolus, Anellaria, Psathyrella, when young, have gills free from each other; Coprinus, in early life, presents them pressed tightly together; as the plants age and the spores ripen, the entire gill structure becomes black and dissolves into an inky fluid, the color of which is due to the spores. ”

“ Gills becoming dry, tough, simple, unequal, thin, margin acute, toothed, more or less decurrent. Stem when present central, excentric or lateral, hard and firm, continuous with the flesh of the pileus.
Growing on wood.
Spores somewhat round, even, white.
Distinguished from other coriaceous genera by its serrated and torn gills.
“The genera Lentinus and Lenzites are found in every region of the world; their principal center, however, is in hot countries, where they attain a splendid development. On the contrary, toward the north they rapidly decrease in number.” Fungi. ”

“ Never clean a toadstool over other toadstools. If the stem is hard, tough or wormy, remove it.
Having cleaned the plant, place it in one of the paper bags, spore surface down. Write its name on the bag. Place but one kind in the same bag, unless species of about the same texture and flavor are found and mixing is not objectionable. Where another species is found, give it a bag to itself.
Select fresh, inviting plants only. Do all possible cleaning in the field. |Selection|Plants keep clean, pack better, and more of them can be carried. A careless jumble is gritty, bruised and disappointing. ”

“ The veil in this genus, being concrete with the cuticle of the pileus, never appears as loose warts or patches, neither is there a volva as in Amanita and Amanitopsis. These three genera are the only ones in the white-spored series having gills free from the stem. In a few species the gills are slightly attached to the stem, but are never decurrent upon it as in Armillaria. When the plant is young it is egg-shaped. It then gradually spreads, becomes convex, and opens until it is nearly flat, with a knob in the center. ”

“ The webby powdered filaments constitute a universal veil which at first covers the whole plant and conceals the young tubes. As the pileus expands this generally disappears from the disk, and, separating between the margin and the stem, a part adheres to each. The flesh is sometimes stained with yellow. The tubes in some instances become convex and slightly depressed around the stem. They are almost white when young, and often exhibit brownish hues where wounded. 423The plant is sometimes cespitose. I have observed a greenish tint to the freshly shed spores, but it soon disappears. ”