Sidney Thomas Bridgford

“ In this forest, the oak, beech and elm are very fine,—maple, ash, silver birch, and alder-fari; larkspur and large orange lilies were in blossom.
The soil is a dark loam in the bottoms and light reddish earth on the hills. Passed several huts surrounded by cultivated patches, the occupants of which did not appear to be very happy. They had planted daikon, buckwheat, Indian corn, potatoes, onions, runners and some flowers. The crows damage the crops very much unless they are protected by netting. ”

“ Well wooded hills of considerable altitude form the back ground: the road at last descends to the harbour beach and then is carried on the crest of a low range of bluffs on which is built the village of Shin-Mororan (i.e. new Mororan) .
The inhabitants were brought over from the old village on the other side of the bay by Government order. 100 riôs was loaned to each head of a family, the Government sold them wood, shingles, &c., and the result is a village of some sixty Japanese houses, ten Aino huts and a gross population of 255 persons. ”

“ From Camoyi Cotan to the sea the river banks rarely exceed twenty feet in height, the general average being fifteen feet. The slopes are usually covered with short grass and on top is a continuous fringe of willows, rising in places to the dignity of trees in other places mere saplings. ”

“ The Ishi-kari watershed is naturally divided into two portions by the range of mountains containing the gorge Camoyi Cotan. It is stated that in the upper portion the climate is colder in winter and warmer in summer than in the lower portion, and that this difference is due principally to the fact of the lower plain opening on to the sea coast, whereas the upper plain is surrounded by mountain ranges on three sides and it is more removed from the sea. ”

“ It is stated that the present population of Satsporo is about 3,000 besides which there are many small villages scattered over the plain. The settlers are very clannish; there are “Sendai” villages, “Nambu” villages, &c.
The Satsporo market seems well supplied with fish, venison and vegetables. The shops are very poor; a large Yoshiwara exists at the East end of the town.
The Government model Farm has proved that the soil is highly productive, the climate favorable, and that Japanese hemp and cereals of fine quality can be grown in large quantities. ”

“ Soon after the arrival of the salmon is reported from the coast fishing stations, and in a few days they commence passing up the river on their way to the spawning beds in the upper waters. On the Ishi-kari, each station has two nets and two boats, and crews always at work from dawn until dark. A seine having been shot the upper end is made fast to a post in the bank and the lower end, or rather the rope attached to it, is passed around a capstan which is manned by the boat’s crew that have shot the seine ”

“ The timber varies very much both in size and quality, but large quantities of fine oak, ash, chestnut, walnut, elm and several other hard woods, exist in the vicinity of the river and its tributaries. The best timber is generally to be found in the narrow belts of wood that border the large stretches of prairie grass. ”

“ The hills in the vicinity of Otaronai are entirely denuded of timber, and it was said that the roots had been dug out and burnt so as to prevent regrowth.
Otaronai is a thriving town and much building is going on. A swift running stream is conducted through two of the principal streets that are at right angles to the beach. There are numerous large stores where are kept depots of fishing gear fur the Ishikari fisheries; and where fish-manure, oil, seaweed and sea-slug are prepared for export: the trade in these articles is said to be large. ”

“ Emerging from the woods on to the superior slope of the mountain, and tramping over the pumice, I observed much young birch springing up in many places, especially in the gullies or where the prostrate trunks of the former forest shew above ground. It is 24 miles over loose pumice to the top of the lip of the old crater (and 2800 feet above the sea) . Two jagged peaks, connected by a curtain of ashes, rise some 500 feet higher on the western side. ”

“ Above is a sky of azure, the sun is brilliant and warm, and the stillness is only broken by the murmur of some distant rapid. 93 Ainos are the sole population of this plain, thousands of deer graze in its rich pastures, while bears and wolves, besides smaller game, prowl almost undisturbed. U-petzū is about 85 miles from the source of the river and consists of 4 Aino huts; 19 huts are scattered between this place and Kami kawa which is 15 miles distant, total 23 huts and 93 persons. ”

“ Each Aino canoe is fashioned out of one log of timber, generally elm; two men will fashion one out in five days: these are canoes for river work; those used on the sea coast have the bottom dug out, the sides laced on, and the prow and stern laced together with bark fibre.
The river canoes are most skilfully managed with either pole or puddle by the Ainos. The Japanese caunot manage a canoe properly. ”

“ Iwanai to Yoitchi, distance 35 miles by bridle road over several ranges of mountains. The highest point attained by the road is 1,100 feet above the sea. The country is entirely covered with forest, but the soil appeared to be very poor and rocky. There are magnificent walnut, oak, elm, Yodo (fir) , ash and maple trees. Many streams intersect the ravines and valleys (several were forded) and the bottoms are full of swamps and very thick bamboo brush. The road was planked in parts, but in some parts was very bad indeed.
Only fourteen huts with small clearings were passed along the whole route. ”

“ The boats employed in the herring fisheries are large and well built, some of them pull as many as twenty oars.
Oshamambei is a good-sized but straggling village. A lagoon divides it from the fishing station, where are situated the store houses, look out station and the Aino settlement. The lagoon is fordable and is formed by the bar of a river that here flows into the bay.
Oshamambei via Kura Matsunai to Ota-shutz situated on the west coast of Yeso, distance 25 miles. ”

“ The section of these peaks as shewn on the inner wall exhibits many beds of compressed volcanic ash, and near the top, two partial layers of lava, capped by basaltic rock of eccentric form.
The side of the crater towards Volcano Bay is completely blown away and the pumice extends to the sea in that direction.
To the S. E. the pumice has blocked up the valley below, forming two very pretty lakes (mentioned before) . The beds of these lakes contain remains of the old forest. ”

“ Fortunately for the salmon the freshets bring down driftwood which soon tears a passage through the barriers and puts a stop to the fishing for a day or two, and salmon in the upper waters move up mostly during freshets, as only then do they find water enough to take them over the difficult rapids. ”

“ From four to seven feet is the depth of the snow-fall.
The total number of Ainos on the Ishi-kari is 246.
Besides the vast quantity of timber, there are found wild hemp, hops, grapes, millet, asparagus, celery, mint, mushrooms, &c. Winter wheat has been grown with great success, as also have buck-wheat, millet, maize, potatoes, beans, peas and a large variety of vegetable and root crops. The finest and most valuable product is the Japanese hemp (asa) . Its long staple, fine fibre and silken sheen, will always command attention if produced in large quantities. ”

“ Entering the gorge the stream increases in rapidity, and after traversing a distance of about four miles canoes are turned into a still pool situated above a fall about 41/2 feet high, here the canoes are unloaded and the ladings have to be carried a distance of 4 or 41/2 miles down the gorge to Camoyi Cotan (abode of the gods) . ”

“ Five miles from Urap’ reached the Aino village of Kumai; here the bluffs retire from the beach, and the land seems to be gaining upon the sea, from this to Oshamambei the hills gradually become small and the plain is intersected by many small streams. Some small garden patches were under cultivation.
The sand hills that fringe the bay are covered with dwarf rose bushes, the flower, large single damask, and very highly scented. The natives eat the seeds of which they collect large quantities. ”

“ Aino women armed with bows and blunted arrows kept watch and ward over the manure to prevent the dogs from purloining it.
There are forty Aino and fourteen Japanese houses in Horobets and the population is stated to be, Ainos about 300. Japanese about 100.
300 Kokus of salmon were caught here in 1872; also, 100 kokus of seaweed (kobu) wore exported.
Near here are two hot sulphur springs, and some eight miles distant amongst the hills much native sulphur of fair quality is found.
There are plenty of ponies. They are kept on the hills all through the winter ”

“ Hakodate to Satsporo, viâ—
The road from Hakodate to Sigonope in its general direction bears N. N. W. by N., distance 23 miles. The road is 36 feet in width and unmetalled; for some distance past Kamida Bridge it runs over a large plain with a very gentle rise towards the hills, the soil a dark loam: much timber has been felled. The trees remaining are beech, birch, silver birch, maple, mulberry, chestnut, &c.
An experimental Farm is situated some 220 feet above sea level and close to the steep slope of the hills, here was growing some fine hemp, also a little corn. ”

“ Another of the six is about 100 feet deep. The rainfall in the basin drains into these smaller craters and volumes of steam escape from many apertures in their sides. Native sulphur and iron sand lie strewn about.
The view from the summit looking S. W. shews some fine ranges of hills, clothed in wood and without signs of cultivation.
In this district there is not sufficient soil at present formed over the last layer of pumice to permit of its being profitably tilled. It does well enough for growing timber, and in that way makes soil in the most rapid manner. ”

“ There is every facility for the production of immense crops of this article, plenty of new clean land, of water for preparing, packing, &c., and for transport to the coast; little manual labour is required and very little machinery. ”

“ Otaronai to Satsporo viâ Zeni-baco, distance 23 miles.
The road runs along the shore, in some places overhung by high cliffs of basalt or conglomerate. In one place a short tunnel has been cut through a projecting rock. ”