H. Le Blanc

“ The Stock has ever since formed a part of military costume. Invention has been racked to diversify it as much as possible; and, as appearance alone was consulted, each change has rendered it more injurious; it has been transformed into a collar as hard as iron, by the insertion of a slip of wood, which acting on the larynx, and compressing every part of the neck, caused the eyes almost to start from their spheres, and gave the wearer a supernatural appearance often producing vertigos and faintings, or at least bleeding at the nose. ”

“ One of our antiquarian friends, who has devoted his time to long and laborious researches on the origin of Cravats, asserts, that the real Cravate à l’Orientale consists of a very small silken cord; and that in the highest circles of Turkey, it is sometimes the custom to draw it tighter than the human frame can well bear; he very properly adds that this fashion produces the most serious results to the health of any one who is suddenly compelled to adopt it. ”

“ In an age like the present, when the man of quality is so closely imitated by the pretender—when the amalgamation of all ranks seems to be the inevitable consequence of the “March of [vii] Intellect” now making such rapid strides amongst us, we think a more signal service cannot be rendered to the higher ranks of society, than by the production of such a work as this; and, in the hope of being really useful, we offer to a discerning public the “Art of Tying on the Cravat.” ”

“ The ends are fastened at the back of the neck, or are concealed in the folds; a whalebone stiffener is requisite, but starch is unnecessary.
Cravats with horizontal stripes, or large spots, are preferred. The most becoming colour is that called Russia leather. Black is sometimes worn, but the shirt bosom must then be plaited.
Human life is often compared to a painful journey ”

“ Singers more than any class of persons, should be careful to avoid exposing the throat to the cold, a moderate heat contributes to supple the organs, and renders the voice clearer and more harmonious; though, on the contrary, it is greatly deteriorated if the throat is constrained by a tightened Cravat. No part of the body is more susceptible of cold than the neck ”

“ Starch gives a combination of substance, elasticity, and suppleness to the handkerchief, and by filling up the smallest holes effectually excludes the cold air in winter. In summer it also possesses the incalculable advantage of preventing the Cravat from adhering too closely to the neck, and thereby producing an uncomfortable heat.
Whatever style may have been adopted in putting on the Cravat, when the knot is once formed [27] (whether good or bad) it should not be changed under any pretence whatever. ”

“ Stocks have lately been much improved, and these objections no longer exist. The best Stocks for general use are made of whalebone, thinned at the edges, with a border of white leather, which entirely prevents that unpleasant scratching of the chin so often produced by the whalebone penetrating the upper part.
[21]
THE BLACK AND COLOURED SILK CRAVAT. The world in general is well informed of the source from which silk is derived; that it proceeds from an industrious insect of the order lepidoptera, known as the silk worm ”

“ Collars, made of the richest metals, and lined with a soft cloth, were worn, like the modern Stock, to ornament the face and support the chin. The general use of collars amongst the ancients, and Stocks in our own times, would almost prove [18] that when man is left to himself, “his nose is much more inclined to claim acquaintance with the earth,” (to use the expression of a celebrated French author) , “than his eyes with the Heavens,” as Buffon asserts. ”

“ In our own times we occasionally meet with young aspirants, who, in the fullest acceptation of the term, adopt the Gordian tie; with this difference, however, that when they wish to untie it, as a sword like that of the Macedonian monarch is too cumbersome for their delicate hands, they make use of a pair of scissors, with which they are more familiar—but to our subject. ”

“ The Cravat should be but slightly starched.
See plate referred to.
LESSON XI.
Cravate Mathématique. Plate C, fig. 20.
Regularity and proportion are the essentials of every art.
In a beautiful landscape we are occasionally delighted with the knotted and bent trunk of the [47] majestic oak; but the correct and beautiful proportion of a Grecian column (even in ruins) rivets our attention and excites our wonder and admiration.
The Cravate Mathématique is a combination of symmetry and regularity—the style is grave and severe, and the slightest wrinkle is strictly prohibited. ”

“ When the Cravat is satisfactorily arranged, the finger must be passed lightly along the top, to smooth and thin it, and cause it to coincide with the shirt collar.
A small iron, with a handle, made expressly for the purpose, and moderately warm, is the best instrument for producing a thin and equal edge to the Cravat; it will also serve to smooth the tie ”

“ It rarely happened that a field-day passed over without surgical aid being required by one or more soldiers, whose illness was only produced by an over-tightened Stock. As the same kind of Stock was used for necks of all sizes, whether long or short, thin or thick, it rendered the weaver, in many cases, almost immoveable ”

“ This new arrangement, which confined the throat but very slightly, was at first termed a Croat, since corrupted to Cravat. The Cravats of the officers and people of rank were extremely fine, and the ends were embroidered or trimmed with broad lace; those for the lower classes were subsequently made of cloth or cotton, or at the best of black taffeta, plaited; which was tied round the neck by two small strings. These strings were at a later period replaced by clasps, or a buckle, and the Cravat then took the name of Stock. ”

“ It has been rather neglected, and we think unjustly so, as it combines the advantage of concealing the shirt of the wearer, and displaying the handkerchief to advantage. It may be put on in a moment, and this style can be adopted with complete success in wearing a handkerchief a second time. It should be prepared as shewn in plate A, fig. 2; placed on the front of the neck, the ends are passed round and crossed on the chest, as shewn in plate D, fig. 28.
Married men and antiquated beaux seem to be its greatest admirers ”

“ The ends should be geometrically correct, and must bear examination even by the aid of a compass; they should descend obliquely from each side, and form two acute angles in crossing—all the folds in a horizontal direction, forming the two acute and opposite angles of a triangle, which the Mathématique must always strictly represent. ”

“ See plate B, fig. 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11.
Cravate à l’Indépendance. The same as the Américaine, except in colour; it [54] is composed of red, blue and white, in alternate stripes; all other shades are strictly prohibited.
See plate C, fig. 13.
Cravate en Valise. Is composed like the Nœud Gordien, except the ends, which, instead of being brought down, are turned inside the knot; the handkerchief must be rather small, or it will be impossible to conceal the ends, which with the knot should present the appearance of a travelling portmanteau.
The favourite colour is that of Russia leather. ”

“ Plate A, fig 2.
The great advantages of this method will be immediately perceptible, in the prevention of that disagreeable prominence which is generally produced at the back of the neck by the junction of the ends; which being brought to the front without being soiled, or tumbled in the slightest [29] degree, are more easily formed into an elegant tie.
The same care and attention are necessary to the back as to the front of the Cravat. ”

“ Those who have a short neck, high shoulders, a round, full, and fresh coloured face, and who are at all subject to head aches, beatings of the temples, &c. should be most careful to wear the Cravat loose ”