James Geikie

“ No one can deny that any degree and amount of intercrossing might take place in the case of icebergs. We can readily conceive how floating ice, detached from a long line of coast, might be compelled by shifting winds and changing currents to tack about again and again, so as to pursue the most devious course, and scatter their stony burdens in the most erratic manner over the sea-bottom; while, on the other hand, it is quite impossible to understand how a similar irregular distribution of erratics could take place under one and the same glacier flowing in a determinate direction. ”

“ Comparing the American with the opposite European coasts one cannot help being struck with certain other resemblances. Thus Hudson Bay at once suggests the Baltic, and the Gulf of Mexico, with the Caribbean Sea, recalls the Mediterranean. But the geological structure of the coast-lands of Greenland and North America betrays a much closer resemblance between these and the opposite shores of Europe than appears on a glance at the map. There is something more than a mere superficial similarity. ”

“ However captivating, however imposing, however strongly supported by evidence a new view may appear to be, we do well to criticise, to sift the evidence, and to call for more facts and experiments, if such are possible, until the proofs become so strong as to approach as near a demonstration as geologists can in most cases expect such proofs to go. The history of our science, and indeed of most sciences, affords abundant illustration of what I say. How many long years were the views of sub-aërial erosion, as taught by Hutton and Playfair, canvassed and controverted before they became accepted! ”

“ It is noticeable that all the narrower and steeper reaches lie among Silurian strata and Old Red Sandstone porphyrites. No sooner do we leave the regions occupied by these tough and hard rock-masses than the whole aspect of the scenery changes. The surrounding hills immediately lose in height and fall away into a softly undulating country, through which the streams and rivers have dug for themselves deep romantic channels. ”

“ If all that we could ever know of glacial action were confined to what we can learn from peering into the grottoes at the terminal fronts of existing glaciers, we should indeed come to the conclusion that glaciers do not erode their rocky beds to any appreciable extent. But as we do not look for the strongest evidence of fluviatile erosion at the mouth of a river, but in its valley—and mountain-tracks, so if we wish to learn what glacier-ice can accomplish, we must study in detail some wide region from which the ice has completely disappeared. ”

“ None of these phenomena can be interpreted and accounted for without the aid of the geologist: without some knowledge of rocks and rock-structures, the origin of the earth’s surface-features is quite inexplicable. To give an adequate explanation of all the surface-features of a country in detail would of course require a profound study of Geology; but a general acquaintance only with its elementary facts is quite sufficient to enable us to form a reasonable and intelligent view of the cause and origin of the main features of the land as a whole. ”

“ But in place of sharp-rimmed escarpments, and tors, and broken shattered ridges, we see everywhere a rounded and smoothly-flowing configuration which prevails up to a height of 1600 feet or thereabout, above which the rocks take on the rugged appearance which is natural to them. By what magic have the strata at the lower levels escaped in such large measure from the action of rain and frost, which have furrowed and shattered the higher mountain-tops? ”

“ At first we seem to get an answer to our question when we are told that the islands of the Outer Hebrides are composed chiefly of one and the same kind of rock. Everyone nowadays has some knowledge of the fact that the peculiar features of any given district are greatly due to the character and arrangement of the rock-masses. For example, who is not familiar with the outline of a chalk country, as distinguished from the contour of a region the rocks of which are composed, let us say, of alternating beds of limestone and sandstone and masses of old volcanic material? ”

“ What appeared at first to be only one vast extended peat-bog is then seen to be a gently-undulating country, coated, it is true, with much peat in the hollows, but clad for the most part with heath, through which ever and anon peer bare rocks and rocky débris. Now and again, indeed, especially towards the centre of the island, the ground rises into rough round-topped hills, sprinkled sparingly with vegetation. One of the most striking features of the low-grounds, however, is the enormous number of freshwater lakes, which are so abundant as to form no small proportion of the surface. ”

“ This being admitted, I shall now proceed to show that Physical Geography, although, like Political Geography, it is a separate and distinct subject, yet, just as the study of the latter involves some knowledge of History, so the prosecution of Physical Geography compels us to make a certain acquaintance with Geology. We cannot, in fact, learn much about the atmosphere, about rain and rivers, glaciers and icebergs, earthquakes and volcanoes, and the causes of climate, without at the same time becoming more or less familiar with the groundwork on which geological investigations are based. ”

“ Could a thick ice-sheet exercise sufficient attraction upon the sea to cause it to rise upon the land, and thus explain the origin of some of the so-called raised beaches of this and other formerly glaciated lands? Can the weight of a great ice-sheet shift the earth’s centre of gravity, and, if so, to what extent? ”

“ Away to the north spread the great moorlands with their lochans, while immediately to the south one catches a fine panoramic view of the mountains of Harris. And then those long straggling arms of the sea, reaching into the very heart of the island—how blue, and bright, and fresh they look! I suppose the natives of the Lewis must have been fishermen from the very earliest times. It seems hardly possible otherwise to believe that the bare rocks and peat-bogs, which form the major portion of its surface, could ever have supported a large population ”

“ Nowhere amongst the sedimentary rocks of the earth’s crust do we meet with any ancient sediments which can be likened to the red clay now slowly accumulating in the deeper abysses of the ocean. There are no rocks of abysmal origin. Many of our limestones have undoubtedly formed in deep, clear water, but none of these is abysmal. Portions of Europe may now and again have been submerged for several thousand feet, but no part of this or any other continent, so far as we yet know, has within — 330 — geological time been depressed to depths comparable to those of the present oceanic basins. ”

“ Need we wonder if at a time when the northern ice-sheet approached the fiftieth parallel of latitude in middle Europe, when almost every mountain-group of central and southern Europe had its snow-fields and glaciers—need we wonder if at such a time the climate of wide areas outside of the glaciated tracts was extremely ungenial? The more closely the superficial accumulations of such areas are studied, the more clearly do we perceive in them the evidence of cold and humid conditions. Try, then, to picture to yourselves the probable aspect of those regions during a glacial epoch. ”

“ We should learn from it, amongst other things, that the advance of our science has not always been continuous—now and again, indeed, it has almost seemed as if the movement had been retrograde. — 222 — Knowledge has not come in like an overwhelming flood—as a broad majestic river—but rather like a gently-flowing tide, now advancing, now retiring, but ever, upon the whole, steadily gaining ground. ”

“ Tilted and convoluted, broken and crushed by myriad earth-movements—scarred, furrowed, worn and degraded by — 348 — the frosts, the rains, the rivers, and the seas of countless ages—the rocks of our Continent are yet eloquent of design. Where the ignorant sees nothing save confusion and discord, the thoughtful student beholds everywhere the evidence of a well-ordered evolution. ”

“ Thus Europe is separated from Africa by the Mediterranean, a depression which is continued eastward through the Black Sea into the Aralo-Caspian area. South America is all but cut away from North America, while Australia is separated from Asia by the East India Seas. We find, in fact, all over the world that well-marked natural features are constantly being repeated. Not only do the great land-masses of the globe bear certain resemblances to each other, but even in their detailed structure similar parallelisms recur. ”

“ Every geologist knows that granite is a rock which could only have been formed and consolidated at great depths. When, therefore, such a rock occurs at the surface, it is evidence beyond all doubt of prodigious erosion. The granite has been laid bare by the removal of the thick rock-masses underneath which it cooled and consolidated.
A glance at any map of Scotland will show that many river-valleys, and not a few lakes, of the Highlands have a north-east and south-west trend. This trend corresponds to what geologists call the strike of the strata. ”

“ It is enough, from our present point of view, to be assured that the main features of the country were chalked out, as it were, at a very distant geological period, and that all the infinite variety in the relief of our land has been brought about directly, not by titanic convulsions and earth-movements, but by the long-continued working of rain and rivers—of frost and snow and ice, supplemented from time to time by the action of the sea. ”

“ It is evident that the south-east exposure has borne the full brunt of the ice-grinding—the surfaces that are turned in the opposite direction, or towards the Atlantic, having been in a measure protected or sheltered by their position. The striations or scratches that are seen upon the less-weathered surfaces point invariably towards the north-west, and from their character and the mode in which they have been graved upon the rock, we are left in no doubt as to the trend of the old ice-plough—which was clearly from south-east to north-west. ”

“ One can readily understand, at all events, how snail-shells might be swept down the slopes of the land at the time of the spring thaws, and how large numbers might find their way eventually into the swollen glacial rivers. I have often observed, during the melting of snow and the thawing of soils, quantities of snail-shells in the very act of being swept into our brooks and rills. And we are all familiar with the fact that, after a spring-flood has subsided, snail-shells, along with vegetable débris, are often plentifully stranded upon the valley-slopes and flood-plains of our rivers. ”

“ When the islands are first approached they present, it must be confessed, a somewhat forbidding aspect. Bare, bleak rocks, with a monotonous rounded outline, crowd along the shore, and seem to form all but the very highest portions of the land that meet our view, while such areas of low-ground as we can catch a glimpse of appear to be everywhere covered with a dusky mantle of heath and peat. ”

“ If we dismiss the notion of a warm ocean-current for that of a warm wind, we do not improve our position a whit. Where did the warm wind come from? Not, certainly, from the ice-laden seas to the east. Are we to suppose, then, that it flowed in from the south or south-west? If so, we might well ask how it came to pass that in the immediate proximity of such a very warm wind as the hypothesis demands, great snow-fields and glaciers were allowed to exist in Wales? ”

“ Let me put the case shortly: if the glacial marine beds and raised beaches of the Atlantic borders of Europe and North America owe their origin to depression induced by the weight of an ice-sheet, then it is quite certain that at the advent of glacial conditions the land could not have been so highly elevated as the advocates of the “earth-movement hypothesis” suppose. But if we are to accept the notion of great elevation of the land, then we must conclude that the submergence to which the raised beaches testify cannot have been caused by the pressure of ice-sheets. ”

“ But for a long time to come these grey Western Islands will continue to present us with some of the most instructive examples of rounded and mammillated rock-masses to be met with in Europe. From Barra Head in Bearnarey to the Butt of Lewis we are constantly confronted by proofs of the former presence of that mysterious abrading power, which has accommodated itself to all the sinuosities of the ground, so that from the sea-level up to a height of 1600 feet at least, the eye rests almost everywhere upon bare round-backed rocks and smoothed surfaces. ”