John Evelyn

“ Men of deep Thought, and such as are otherwise disturb'd with Secular Cares and Businesses, which hinders the Function of the Stomach and other Organs: whilst those who have their Minds free, use much Exercise, and are more active, create themselves a natural Appetite, which needs little or no Variety to quicken and content it. ”

“ And what if it was held undecent and unbecoming the Excellency of Man's Nature, before Sin entred, and grew enormously wicked, that any Creature should be put to Death and Pain for him who had such infinite store of the most delicious and nourishing Fruit to delight, and the Tree of Life to sustain him? ”

“ But what think we of the Cicuta, which there are who reckon among Sallet Herbs? But whatever it is in any other Country, 'tis certainly Mortiferous in ours. To these add the Viola Matronalis, Radix Lunaria, &c. nay, the Green Poppy, by most accounted among the deadly Poysons: How cautious then ought our Sallet-Gatherers to be, in reading ancient Authors; lest they happen to be impos'd on, where they treat of [49] Plants, that are familiarly eaten in other Countries, and among other Nations and People of more robust and strong constitutions? ”

“ Living in the country and cultivating his fruits and vegetables, Evelyn grew to be an ardent believer in vegetarianism and is probably the first advocate in England of a meatless diet. He was so keen on preparing foods without meat that, like another contemporary, Sir Kenelm Digby, he collected recipes. These, interspersed with delightful philosophic comments and some directions about gardening, were assembled in the little book Acetaria. ”

“ In our cold Sallet we supply them with the Porrum Sectile, Tops of Leeks, and Eschalots (Ascalonia) of gust more exalted, yet not to the degree of Garlick. Or (by what of later use is much preferr'd) with a Seed or two of Raccombo, of a yet milder and delicate nature, which by rubbing the Dish only, imparts its Vertue agreeably enough. In Italy they frequently make a Sallet of Scalions, Cives, and Chibbols only season'd with Oyl and Pepper; [32] and an honest laborious Country-man, with good Bread, Salt, and a little Parsley, will make a contented Meal with a roasted Onion. ”

“ Being eaten crude and alone with Oyl, Vinegar, and Pepper, we own them in Sallet, not so hot as Garlick, nor at all so rank: Boil'd, they give a kindly relish; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut Phlegm, and profit the Asthmatical: But eaten in excess, are said to offend the Head and Eyes, unless Edulcorated with a gentle maceration. In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the Sight, is imputable only to the Vapour rising from the raw Onion, when peeled, which some commend for its purging and quickning that Sense. How they are us'd in Pottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. ”

“ Wine is judg'd the better: That it has indeed by some been accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as do all things else eaten in excess) is not deny'd: But a perfect good Melon is certainly as harmless a Fruit as any whatsoever; and may safely be mingl'd with Sallet, in Pulp or Slices, or more properly eaten by it self, with a little Salt and Pepper ”

“ Aromatick, hot, and dry; expels Wind, sharpens the Sight, and recreates the Brain; especially the tender Umbella and Seed-Pods. The Stalks are to be peel'd when young, and then dress'd like Sellery. The tender Tufts and Leaves emerging, being minc'd, are eaten alone with Vinegar, or Oyl, and Pepper, and to correct the colder Materials, enter properly into Composition. The Italians eat the blanch'd Stalk (which they call Cartucci) all Winter long. There is a very small Green-Worm, which sometimes lodges in the Stemm of this Plant, which is to be taken out, as the Red one in that of Sellery. ”

“ Nay, Experience tells us, that they not only hurt not at all, but exceedingly benefit those who use them; indu'd as they are with such admirable Properties as they every day discover: For some Plants not only nourish laudably, but induce a manifest and wholesom Change; as Onions, Garlick, Rochet, &c. which are both nutritive and warm; Lettuce, Purselan, the Intybs, &c. and indeed most of the Olera, refresh and cool: And as their respective Juices being converted into the Substances of our Bodies, they become Aliment; so in regard of their Change and Alteration, we may allow them Medicinal ”

“ What shall we add more? Our Gardens present us with them all; and whilst the Shambles are cover'd with Gore and Stench, our Sallets scape the Insults of the Summer Fly, purifies and warms the Blood against Winter Rage: Nor wants there Variety in more abundance, than any of the former Ages could shew.
Survey we their Bills of Fare, and Numbers of Courses serv'd up by Athenæus, drest with all the Garnish of Nicander and other Grecian Wits: What has the Roman Grand Sallet worth the naming? Parat Convivium, The Guests are nam'd indeed, and we are told ”

“ The young fresh Bulbs are sweet and high of taste. The Asphodil or Daffodil; a Sallet so rare in Hesiod's Days, that Lobel thinks it the Parsnep, tho' not at all like it; however it was (with the Mallow) taken anciently for any Edule-Root.
The Ornithogalons roasted, as they do Chestnuts, are eaten by the Italians, the wild yellow especially, with Oyl, Vinegar, and Peper. And so the small tuberous Roots of Gramen Amygdalosum; which they also roast, and make an Emulsion of, to use in Broaths as a great Restorative. The Oxylapathum, us'd of old; in the time of Galen was eaten frequently. ”

“ The Radix Personata mounting with their young Heads, Lysimachia siliquosa glabra minor, when fresh and tender, begins to come into the Sallet-Tribe. The pale whiter Popy, is eaten by the Genouese. By the Spaniards, the tops of Wormwood with Oyl alone, and without so much as Bread; profitable indeed to the Stomach, but offensive to the Head; As is also Coriander and Rue, which Galen was accustom'd to eat raw, and by it self, with Oyl and Salt, as exceedingly grateful, as well as wholsome, and of great vertue against Infection. ”

“ Whole Nations, Flesh-Devourers (such as the farthest Northern) becoming Heavy, Dull, Unactive, and much more Stupid than the Southern; and such as feed much on Plants, are more Acute, Subtil, and of deeper Penetration: Witness the Chaldæans, Assyrians, Ægyptians, &c. And further argues from the short Lives of most Carnivorous Animals, compared with Grass Feeders, and the Ruminating kind; as the Hart, Camel, and the longævous Elephant, and other Feeders on Roots and Vegetables. ”

“ Indian Capsicum, superlatively hot and burning, is yet by the Africans eaten with Salt and Vinegar by it self, as an usual Condiment; but wou'd be of dangerous consequence with us; being so much more of an acrimonious and terribly biting quality, which by Art and Mixture is notwithstanding render'd not only safe, but very agreeable in our Sallet. ”

“ The tops of the Red, well pick'd and wash'd (being often defil'd with Venomous Slime, and almost imperceptible Insects) with the Flowers, retain all [40] the noble Properties of the other hot Plants; more especially for the Head, Memory, Eyes, and all Paralytical Affections. In short, 'tis a Plant endu'd with so many and wonderful Properties, as that the assiduous use of it is said to render Men Immortal: We cannot therefore but allow the tender Summities of the young Leaves; but principally the Flowers in our cold Sallet ”

“ In general, Cabbages are thought to allay Fumes, and prevent Intoxication: But some will have them noxious to the Sight; others impute it to the Cauly-flower rather: But whilst the Learned are not agreed about it, Theophrastus affirms the contrary, and Pliny commends the Juice raw, with a little Honey, for the moist and weeping Eye, not the dry or dull. But after all, Cabbage ('tis confess'd) is greatly accus'd for lying undigested in the Stomach, and provoking Eructations ”

“ Plants, like these, going under the Names of Pot Herbs, are much more proper for Broths and Decoctions, than the tender Sallet: Yet the Tops and Flowers reduc'd to Powder, are by some reserv'd for Strewings, upon the colder Ingredients; communicating no ungrateful Fragrancy.
32. Jack-by-the-Hedge, Alliaria, or Sauce-alone; has many Medicinal Properties, and is eaten as other Sallets, especially by Country People, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges. ”

“ The Heads being slit in quarters first eaten raw, with Oyl, a little Vinegar, Salt, and Pepper, gratefully recommend a Glass of Wine; Dr. Muffet says, at the end of Meals.
They are likewise, whilst tender and small, fried in fresh Butter crisp with Persley. But then become a most delicate and excellent Restorative, when full grown, they are boil'd the common way. The Bottoms are also bak'd in Pies, with Marrow, Dates, and other rich Ingredients: In Italy they sometimes broil them, and as the Scaly Leaves open, baste them with fresh and sweet Oyl ”

“ Take the biggest Cucumbers (and most of the Mango size) that look green: Open them on the Top or Side; and scooping out the Seeds, supply their Place with a small Clove of Garlick, or some Roccombo Seeds. Then put them into an Earthen Glazed Jarr, or wide-mouth'd Glass, with as much White-Wine Vinegar as will cover them. Boil them in the Vinegar with Pepper, Cloves, Mace, &c. and when off the Fire, as much Salt as will [135] make a gentle Brine; and so pour all boyling-hot on the Cucumbers, covering them close till the next Day. ”

“ The tender Cimæ, and Tops, with other Herbs, are never to be wanting in our Sallets, (as long as they may be had) being exceedingly wholsome and chearing the Spirits: The Roots are also boil'd and eaten Cold; much commended for Aged Persons: This (as likewise Spinach) is us'd in Tarts, and serves alone for divers Sauces.
15. Clary, Horminum, when tender not to be rejected, and in Omlets, made up with Cream, fried in sweet Butter, are eaten with Sugar, Juice of Orange, or Limon. ”