Pneu Michelin

“ NAPOLÉON BRIDGE DESTROYED BY THE RETREATING GERMANS (see p. 52)
In the meantime, the great cities of the north, with Lille at their head, had become industrial centres of primary importance, thanks to their wealth of raw materials (coal, iron and steel) . To protect them from the horrors of war, it was considered only necessary to make open towns of them. The fortifications of Lille were among the first to be condemned, as being of no real value, and a Bill to this effect was passed by Parliament. ”

“ When the war broke out, Léon Trulin, a Belgian subject, aged 17, was living at Lille. Intensely patriotic by nature, he burned to serve his country against the hated invader. With the help of a few comrades, among whom were Raymond Derain and Marcel Gotti, he got together various documents and succeeded in bringing them to the Allies across the Dutch frontier. In 1915, he decided to go back to France and enlist in the Belgian Army, in company with his friend Derain. On October 3rd they arrived at the frontier. ”

“ From time immemorial Tourcoing has been a wool manufacturing centre. Here, the wool is first washed and dried, then treated with cocoanut fat, before combing, and lastly spun. Since 1845 the combing has been done mechanically (Heilman's system) . The same may be said of the spinning, which, since 1811, was done on Bobo machines. Before the War, 5,000 tons of spun wool were exported annually. ”

“ The "forum" grew rapidly in the 12th century; the suburb of Fives, with its two churches of St. Saviour and St. Maurice, being enclosed within the new wall. There were no further changes of importance until the 17th century, when the Vauban fortifications to the north further enlarged the town. It was only in 1858 that Moulins, Vazemmes and Esquermes were included in the southern portion of the town, leaving the important suburbs of Fives and St. Maurice outside the ramparts.
Its situation on the frontier embroiled Lille in all the great wars. ”

“ In general, the catastrophe was stoically borne by the inhabitants, one citizen remarking: "There were enough shells to have massacred whole regiments. Better we should mourn our dead, than the precious lives of so many of our soldiers."
One huge stone, weighing more than a ton, fell in the studio of the sculptor Deplechin (Rue de Douai) , Director of the Ecole des Beaux-Arts, who carved the bas-relief "Lille in Tears" on it (see Itinerary, p. 36, and photo above) . ”

“ Like many Flemish churches, that of St. Catherine has no transept, and consists of three practically identical naves. Standing out from the façade, a large square tower, flanked at the corners by eight buttresses, supports the ancient timber-work belfry—one of the finest in the region. The bell-chamber is lighted by broken-arch bays. One of the heavy bells (1403) bears a curious inscription in rhymes. Below the tower is the great doorway.
The exterior decoration is very sober in style. The right-hand side of the building is masked by houses. ”

“ For ten days the people lived in mortal suspense, asking themselves if and when their turn would come.
On Easter-Sunday night, the 64th German Infantry Regiment surrounded the Vauban Quarter, the horror of the scene being intensified by the Hôtel-de-Ville in flames. ”

“ The cotton mills of Roubaix, Tourcoing and Lille were extremely prosperous and important.
TRULIN'S GRAVE
in the East Cemetery.
The following general figures give an idea of the industrial importance of this region, which contributed one-sixth of the country's total taxes. Before the war, the annual industrial production was estimated at 4,000,000,000 frs., of which the textile industries accounted for 2,500,000,000 frs.
The industries of Northern France have been ruined, not so much by the war, as by the systematic pillaging and destructions carried out by the Germans. ”

“ On March 11th, 1915, a British aviator was forced to land in the town, after having bombed a German telephone station. Hidden by Jacquet, he eventually escaped to Belgium, guided by Melle. Geneviève. A few days later, he again flew over the town and dropped notes reading as follows: "Lieutenant Mapplebeck sends his compliments to the Kommandant of the German Forces in Lille, and regrets that he was unable to make his acquaintance during his recent pleasant stay in the neighbourhood."
The joy of the inhabitants and the rage of the Kommandantur may be better imagined than described in print. ”

“ The population, largely composed of the working classes, increased rapidly between 1881 and 1891, and numbered 120,000 in 1914. The suburbs: Wattrelos, Lys, Croix, Wasquehal and Mouvaux, are extensions of the town itself and are growing steadily.
Since 1830 Roubaix has been an important centre for wool combing and spinning, the machinery employed comprising 700 washing, carding, combing and weaving machines and 300,000 spindles. Before the War, the wool-spinning mills produced 6,000 tons of yarn annually, the whole of which was used in France. ”

“ The nerves of the vaulting are plaster.
CHURCH OF ST. CATHERINE,
seen from the Rue Royale.
In the northern aisle is a painting by Rubens: The Martyrdom of St. Catherine, dating from about 1622; in the Chapel of Our Lady of Lourdes, on the left of the choir in a small niche, is a statuette of Our Lady of the Seven Afflictions, given by Philippe le Bon, in 1450, to the collegiate of St. Peter. In the Chapel of the Sacred Heart, to the right of the choir, is a small 15th century funeral monument in a niche. The carved stalls ornamented with statues are also noteworthy. ”

“ In 1554, Roubaix, which had become a rival to Lille, obtained permission from Charles Quint and later (1609) from the Council of the Arch-Dukes of Austria, to manufacture velvet, fustian and common grey linen cloth.
A decree of the State Council in 1762, granting similar privileges to all the parishes, was the subject of long lawsuits, which were decided against Lille.
The popular song-writer, Gustave Nadaud (1820-1893) was a native of Roubaix.
There are no monuments in the town anterior to the Revolution. ”

“ The most celebrated work of art in the collections is the Wax Head (Tête de Cire) , which has so often been reproduced in engravings, photographs and casts. This funeral souvenir, which stands in a golden niche in the middle of a room draped with red plush, was made to perpetuate the memory of a young girl 15 to 18 years of age. The pedestal and draperies are of terra-cotta, and date from the 18th century.
THE WAX HEAD
(Cliché LL.)
Of Italian origin, the head is attributed by some to Raphael, by others to Leonard de Vinci. ”

“ The English and Flemish burnt it during the 14th century, while the French seized it in 1477. In 1566-1568 it was twice sacked by the Gueux, and the Duke of Albe held it to ransom. From 1667 to 1708 it was annexed to France by Louis XIV. Later it fell successively under the yoke of the Austrians, Dutch and Saxons. On May 18th, 1794, the French beat the Duke of York's troops at Tourcoing, and paved the way for the Victory of Fleurus on June 26th.
Tourcoing is essentially an industrial town. Its population has steadily increased since 1491, when it numbered 2,500. ”

“ The new Town Hall is a fine building, with a frieze representing scenes [Pg 61] from the local industries. A wing on the right serves as the Stock-Exchange, while another on the left contains the town's records.
Church of St. Martin
This church, which was rebuilt and transformed in 1849, recalls vaguely the 15th century Gothic style of the original edifice. Only the steeple is ancient. The church has five naves and contains four ancient tombs and a Flemish altar-screen.
THE GRANDE PLACE AND CHURCH OF ST. MARTIN (Cliché LL.)
Take the Rue de la Gare, to the Nord-West of the Grande Place. ”

“ The Germans relentlessly seized all bedding, including that of the old people, some of whom died of cold from sleeping on [Pg 14] bare stone floors. Neither sickness nor old age could soften them, and when at last Lille was relieved, very few houses contained any bedding. ”

“ In shape a regular pentagon, it includes numerous detached out-works. Entrance to it is gained through the Royal Gate, which dates from 1670 (photo above) . It contains barracks and a chapel (photo below) , and it was in the latter that the hostages of Lille spent their nights during the German occupation (p. 12) .
Jacquet, Deconinck, Maertens, Verhulst and Trulin were shot in the northern moats by the Germans (p. 18) .
After visiting the Citadelle, re-cross the bridge, turn to the left and follow the Façade de l'Esplanade, fine avenue planted with linden-trees, which runs alongside the canal. ”

“ The School proper (whose courses, which are well attended, include dyeing, spinning, weaving, etc.) and its annexes (museum and library) are installed in a fine building erected in 1889 from the plans of the architect, F. Dutert, who designed the Galerie des Machines in Paris. Built of dressed stone and brick, the three doorways lead to the library, museums (sculpture, paintings, art-history and textiles) and the public lecture-hall.
The central pediment by Allar, represents Industry and Art. On the pediments of the pavilions are symbolized: The Arts (by Lanson) and the Sciences (by Hughes) . ”

“ Although greatly depressed, the deported people recovered their courage as the trains left the station, and to the amazement of the Germans sang the "Marseillaise" in a mighty chorus.
Twenty-five thousand persons, mostly women and children, were forcibly taken from their homes and made to cultivate the soil, break stones, build bridges, make sand-bags, turn shells, etc., their only food consisting of a little black "bread," nauseating soup and broken scraps of meat. ”

“ ENTRY OF THE 5TH BRITISH ARMY INTO LILLE
In front the "Goddess" statue (left) and the Theatre (behind the Bourse) .
[Pg 27]
See itinerary, p. 25
Behind the column is the "Bourse" or Stock Exchange. Square in shape, it stands between the Grande Place, Rue des Sept-Agaches, Place du Théâtre and Rue des Manneliers. Rising above the roof is a polygonal turret, the upper part of which forms a terrace with small timber-work campanile. It has been restored in recent times.
The "Bourse"
The Bourse is the finest specimen of 17th century Flemish architecture in France. ”

“ Doric columns of polished black stone support the vaulting, which is of brick, with binding ribs and nerves of white stone. On the plinth are heads of leopards connected by garlands of flowers and foliage. A bronze statue by Lemaire, representing Emperor Napoléon I., protector of the national industries, stands in the middle of the courtyard. This statue was inaugurated in 1854, and was cast from old presses from the Mint of Lille, which had previously been made from guns taken at Austerlitz. ”

“ The left façade, between whose high mullioned windows are buttresses decorated with small ornamental arcades, has been restored in modern times. Belts of foliage run round the gutters of the roof. The carvings on the great and small doorways are modern.
Inside the church are two rows of columns on moulded bases, the corbels of whose capitals are ornamented with foliage. ”

“ From the Grande Place to the Citadelle
Monuments to be seen on the way: The Monument to Desrousseaux in the Jussieu Square, the Testelin Monument, the Church of the Sacred Heart, the Palais Rameau; the Bridges over the Deule, Monument to Négrier, Churches of St. André and St. Catherine. ”

“ In the nearest walls are large crevices, while [Pg 46] below, the tourist sees the crater strewn with rubbish and portions of the vaulting. In front, the wrecked spinning-mills, of which only the chimneys remain standing, and the devastated streets (Rue de Ronchin, Rue de Trévise, etc.) , form impressive silhouettes.
THE RUE DE RONCHIN
Return to the Douai Gate, in front of which traces on the ground mark the site of a block of buildings burnt down by the Germans in October, 1914, when they entered the town. ”

“ Leaning to one side, the face is pensive in expression. The neck is flexible and sits with easy grace on the shoulders. The cheeks are rather broad and somewhat flat, the chin round and short. A faint smile hovers round the delicate mouth. The eyes are considered by some to be rather small. ”

“ The Mystic Press, by Jean Bellegambe; the triptych, Virgin surrounded by Angels, attributed to Gerard David; the first portrait of Philippe le Bon, attributed to Pierre Etret; the Symbolical Fountain, an exceedingly fine altar-screen panel by Thierry Bouts de Haarlem, is particularly noteworthy; a portrait of Emperor Charles Quint at the age of 32, by Christophe Amberger and Charles Quint taking the Monk's Gown, by Nicolas Francken the Elder. Rubens is represented by seven paintings: The Descent from the Cross, of admirable clearness ”

“ At the other end of the front, on the left, Belgian, British and French forces under the King of Belgium, Albert I., took the offensive, and on the 14th, 15th and 16th. of October, in spite of the rain and mud, took Roulers and Thourout. Meanwhile, the 2nd British Army captured Menin, crossed the Lys 9 miles from Lille, taking from the rear the northern defences of the latter. In possession of Menin and Bouchain, the British continued to encircle Lille and Douai, and approached the two ends of the important Menin-Tourcoing-Roubaix-Cysoing-Orchies-Somain-Cambrai railway. ”

“ Vauban had fortified the place, but the treaties of 1815 and 1871 deprived France of her essential points of support, and rendered these defences valueless. In 1873, General Séré de Rivières, Director of the Engineering Section at the Ministry of War, commenced a comprehensive scheme which aimed at the reorganization of the entire northern frontier, whereof Lille was one of the pivots. ”

“ The busts over them represent great inventors or learned men (Jacquart, Philippe de Girard, Chaptal, Brongniart, Chevreul) .
On leaving the Bourse, cross the square to the left, and enter the Place de Rihour.
At the corner of the Grand Place, the black façade of the Grand' Garde decorated with trophies and curved pediments bearing the arms of France and Lille, should be noticed. A large shell-hole in the left-hand pediment has been temporarily bricked up.
Cross the ruins of the Hôtel de Ville, burnt down on April 24th 1916 (photo below) , at the time of the deportations. ”