Cheviot Hills

“ Strata closely resembling the grey sandstones and shales of the Tweed valley appear among the Cheviot Hills at the head of the Jed Water, where they are marked by the presence of thick massive sandstones, which form all the tops of the hills between Hungry Law and the heights that overlook the sources of the Liddel Water—the greatest height reached being at Carter Fell, which is 1815 feet above the sea-level. The strata at this place contain some impure limestone and thin seams of coal, while beds of lava and tuff appear intercalated in the series. ”

“ Their forms are softer and more undulating, and they are, too, clothed with a rich vegetation, and frequently overgrown with wood. In Cumberland and Westmorland are inwreathed those charming lakes whose beauties constantly attract a number of tourists. Even the ridge of the Cheviot Hills is not much more than about two thousand feet above the level of the sea: but stretching from east-north-east to west-south-west, with the river Tweed on one side, and the Solway firth on the other, they form a natural boundary between England and Scotland. ”

“ My riddle is infinitely more remote, but it has this merit: that I think I can unriddle it. If ever you roamed on that moor of the Cheviot Hills which is near Chatton Park (I think on Lord Tankerville's ground) , you may have noticed, engraved on the boulders, central cup-like depressions, surrounded by incised concentric circles. Who hollowed out these devices, why, and in what age? ”

“ An instance of this rock occurs in Kincardineshire, from which the large flat twins of labradorite have been analyzed by Dr. Heddle (Trans. Roy. Soc. Edin. vol. xxviii. (1879) , p. 257) .
[330] C. T. Clough, "The Cheviot Hills," Mem. Geol. Survey (1888) , p. 12.
The texture of the andesites occasionally becomes faintly resinous, where a considerable proportion of glass still remains undevitrified, as in the well-known varieties from the Cheviot Hills, and in another pitchstone-like rock from above Airthrey Castle in the Ochil Hills, near Bridge of Allan. ”

“ But in the main, the landscape is purely pastoral for miles, showing few signs of human life, and the nearest habitation often at a considerable distance. The Northumbrian uplands are confined chiefly to the Cheviots, the Pyrenees on a small scale; two-thirds of their whole three hundred square miles are in the county, constituting perhaps the loveliest cluster of pastoral hills in the island. Of this group, Cheviot—to be more distinctive, the Cheviot— (2676 feet) sits in the centre almost, dignified and massive, the "recumbent guardian of the great lone moorland." ”

“ There it strikes off S.S.E. to the Cheviot Hills, the watershed of which for 35 m. constitutes the boundary, which is thereafter formed by a series of streams—Bells Burn, the Kershope, Liddel and Esk. After following the last named for 1 m. it cuts across country due west to the Sark, which it follows to the river’s mouth at the head of the Solway Firth. ”

“ A traveller, familiar with the low grounds of England, when he first enters the northern lowlands is at once impressed by their much more limited extent. He finds them to occupy comparatively restricted spaces between uplands and highlands, their largest expanse lying in the broad depression between the southern border of the Highland mountains and the great tract of high pastoral land in the southern counties. Another considerable area of them intervenes between these southern uplands and the flanks of the Cheviot Hills. ”

“ Peel Fell is the westernmost spur of the Cheviot range. Beheld from afar it seems to be a hill of gentle and inviting slope; but is, in fact, more craggy and broken than any of its kindred hills, which, of all the uplands of our country, are, except for the presence of the shepherds and their sheep, the most solitary. On the summit one stands 1,975 feet above the level of the sea. In these days a railway crosses the Border near to Peel Fell. ”

“ For several miles its watershed ridge on the north forms the boundary between England and Scotland. The upper part of the dale has entirely the characteristic Cheviot aspect—a narrow grassy hollow, with a stony unenclosed moorland road, at the bottom a brawling mountain streamlet, excellent for trout-fishing, grassy hills rising steeply from this on either bank, very little actual crag, and what there is usually down by the stream-side, but often great sweeps of porphyritic debris stretching down the banks, flecked with green of brake and purple of foxglove. ”

“ Frequent on walls and rocks amongst the hills, ascending to 600 yards in the Cheviot ravines and on the Main Limestone scars of Kilhope and Bleak Law, descending to Castle Eden Dene, Cawsey Dene, and Ravensworth Woods. ”

“ It is only when we get out of the mountain-valleys and approach the low-grounds that the till, or stony clay, begins to appear abundantly. The same phenomena characterise the Cheviot district. In the upper reaches of the mountain-valleys at the heads of the Teviot, the Kale, the Bowmont, etc., either till does not occur or it is thin and often concealed below masses of rude morainic débris and — 106 — gravel. Out in the low-grounds, however, till, as we have already remarked, is the most conspicuous of all the superficial deposits. ”

“ Thence it passes, south-westernly, "a sweet smiling stream sleeping on the green sward," into more undulating land, until it reaches the Chesnut ridge, from which it progresses, at times indolently, and at times with an impetuous current, through a narrow valley, hedged in on either side by high hills, steep and craggy cliffs and precipitous mountains, until it strikes the Schuylkill, about a mile above the falls. ”

“ Sometimes, however, when the slope is too great to admit of its growth, the peat gives place to rough scanty grass and scrubby heath, which barely suffice to hide the underlying barren sandstone rocks. One coming from the Scottish side is hardly prepared, indeed, for the dreary aspect of this region as viewed from the dominant ridge of the Cheviots. If in their physical aspect the English slopes of these hills are for the most part less attractive than the Scottish, it is true also that they offer less variety of interest to the geologist. ”

“ These crossroads cut in two directions, one led to the Bungy hills, and the other toward a red school-house and some straggling dwellings in shrub oaks: beyond this, the geography of the country is lost in a confusion of green hills and woodlands, which form a pleasant and prosperous farming country.
From Shrub Oak, the turnpike leads directly down Fall's Hill with precipitous steepness, across the old bridge, and through a sand hill, with a wall of white sand thirty feet high on either side, directly into Chewstown, on the opposite hill. ”

“ Keeping to the right for a quarter of a mile, we find a gate which admits us to the moor. Following an easterly north-easterly direction, now through what will be in autumn a red sea of heather, and now through what is already a diminutive forest of brackens, over hill and dale, too numerous to mention, meeting occasionally a sheep or two feeding on the grass (which seems more fresh and green the higher we go) and apparently wondering how ever we came there, we reach the summit of Dunmyat, after a most pleasant walk of two hours from the time we left Causewayhead. ”

“ On their their northern and western flanks the Cleveland Hills have a most imposing and mountainous aspect, although their greatest altitudes do not aspire more than about 1,500 feet. But they rise so suddenly to their full height out of the flat sea of green country that they often appear as a coast defended by a bold range of mountains. Roseberry Topping stands out in grim isolation, on its masses of alum rock, like a huge seaworn crag, considerably over 1,000 feet high. ”

“ There is as much difference between mountains as between people, as mountain-lovers know, and like people they present characters and individualities of their own. The noble lines of Mount Cheyenne are full of a strange dignity; but it is dignity mixed with an indefinable charm. The canyons nestle about its base, as children at a parent's knee; its cedar forests clothe it like drapery; it lifts its head to the dawn and the sunset; and the sun seems to love it best of all, and lies longer on it than on the other peaks. ”

“ Anyone who has travelled in the shires that run along the Cheviots and the Tweed, will conclude that poetry and romance may ever find a home there. The hills, with their green pastoral slopes and abundant leafage, are a delight to the eye in fresh spring and tinted fall. The sound of the streams, as Ruskin has pointed out, is sweet and rhythmic to an extraordinary degree, combining with the sough of the winds to form an undersong of Nature's own melody. ”

“ Thus, escarpments and the terraced aspect of many hill-slopes are due to inequalities in the strata of which such hills are built up. The softer strata crumble away more rapidly under the touch of the atmospheric forces than the harder beds which rest upon them, and hence the latter are undermined, and their exposed ends or crops, losing support, fall away and roll down the slopes. The igneous rocks of the Cheviots are arranged in beds; but so massive are these, that frequently a hill proves to be composed from base to summit of one and the same sheet of old lava. ”

“ We could see parts of sixteen different counties from it, including Hartfell and Queensberry Hill in the south, Cairntable in the south-west, the peaks of Arran in the west, and the Bass Rock in the north-east.
Looking to the south and east, and not at all far away, we have hill range upon hill range. They are neither very grand, nor rugged—they might almost be termed bleak and bare; and yet they have a beauty all their own. ”

“ Passing Chillingham and thence to Wooler, the Till winds with extraordinary contortions through broad level meadows, the great humpy masses of the Northern Cheviots, reaching here the height of 2700 feet, towering majestically above it. Rippling gently over gravelly shallows of singularly lustrous colouring and many hues, it lingers long and constantly, so slight is the fall, in sullen deeps, into which the high crumbling red sandstone banks are continually toppling. ”

“ The best plan, however, is not to go along the road, but the shore as far as Chewton Glen, and there climb up the cliff. The sands are white and hard, strewed with fragments of iron-stone, and large septaria, from which cement is made, and for which, farther on, a fleet of sloops are dredging a little way from the shore. In the far distance gleam the white and black and orange-coloured bands of sand and clay scoring the Barton cliffs. [3]
The glen, or "bunny," as it is locally called, runs right down into the sea; the high tide rushing up it, and driving back its Forest stream. ”

“ We marched seventeen miles to the highest of the Black Hills, and then encamped. This has been the most interesting march we have yet had; the road ran through rich, luxurious valleys, over high hills, through cuts, in deep, dark ravines, winding among immense rocks and boulders or burying itself in the shady depths of dense pine woods. In the valleys we saw, long, rich grass, decorated by countless millions of flowers and wild rose bushes in full bloom. ”

“ Almost as soon as this era of upheaval first started, as soon as the first land of the Black Hills was elevated above the great sea, the forces of erosion set to work. Wind and rain worked their terrifying magic on the slowly rising terrain, carving away the softer rocks and the loose dirt and leaving only the granite outcroppings. Down from the sides of the great dome poured the waters of melting snows, gushing springs, and torrential rainfalls, digging out rivers, canyons, and the deep and narrow cuts which characterize this beautiful region. ”

“ With few exceptions they are wanting in vegetation, and although to one accustomed to the rugged grandeur and rich variety of the northern Highlands, they may seem tame and uninteresting, there is a charm in their peaceful slopes and rounded summits which is not to be found in the stern beauty of their northern neighbours. “Their beauty is not revealed at first sight; it grows on the eye, which never tires of gazing on their grassy slopes and watching the ever-changing play of light and shade.” ”

“ Besides, there was a country store on the corner, and three white cottages with basements, built in a line like city houses, and the farmers on that side of the river were often heard to say that Chewstown could pull an even yoke with Fall's Hill any time of day, if they had not got a steeple to their meeting-house.
In this village, Captain Mason had left his wife and child, and here, also, Thrasher, the mate, was born. Down in the outskirts of the pine woods, on the Fall's Hill side of the Naugatuc, a river road ran along the curving base of the hill, and wound seaward with the stream. ”

“ Actually, much of the high western plain abutting on the Rocky Mountains is basic badland formation, and small pockets of distinct erosion can be seen all through eastern Colorado, western Nebraska, and eastern Wyoming, in addition to the vast depression in the valleys of the White and Cheyenne rivers in South Dakota. This one region, though, sixty-five miles long and five to fifteen miles wide, is the largest and from the geologist’s point of view the most important of all such regions in the world. ”