Suva

“ But over it all hangs a sense of tension. There are sharp contrasts in Suva between the principal ethnic groups: the dominant British, the cheerful Melanesians, the quiescent Chinese, and the restive Indians. ”

“ On the morning of the 11th of October we got under way from Levuka, and spent the day in steaming over to Suva, a commodious harbour, situated on the south-east side of Viti Levu, where it was our intention to coal ship from a stationary hulk which supplies the steamers plying between Sydney and the Fijian ports. It is said that Suva, from the accommodation which its harbour affords, and from its position on an easily accessible part of the largest island of the group, is destined to become the seat of government and the future capital of Fiji ”

“ Suva, capital of Fiji, has advanced a great deal in the last eighteen years. Nowadays occasional passenger liners dock there and allow tourists to straighten out their sea legs. The men can buy their favorite brand at Piccadilly tobacconists or London bars. ”

“ Steam was made as soon as Kandavu was sighted, and in a few hours the Pera was at anchor in the harbor of Suva, the capital of the British colony of Feejee. It was selected in 1880 by a commission appointed to secure a site for a future capital, the former one, Levuka, having been found disadvantageous in some respects. Levuka is more centrally situated in the archipelago than Suva, but its harbor is not so easy of access, and a ship approaching or leaving it has more dangerous navigation. ”

“ The town of Suva lies on an excellent harbour at the south-east of the island, and has been the capital of the colony since 1882, containing the government buildings and other offices. Vanua Levu is less fertile than Viti Levu; it has good anchorages along its entire southern coast. Of the other islands, Taviuni, remarkable for a lake (presumably a crater-lake) at the top of its lofty central ridge, is fertile, but exceptionally devoid of harbours; whereas the well-timbered island of Kandavu has an excellent one. ”

“ There are several European clubs in Fiji, at Suva and Levuka, and in connection with the several sugar mills in various parts of the group. When a man-of-war is berthed in Suva, which is often the case, daily contests take place between the naval men and the local eleven, and the latter invariably comes off victorious. ”

“ For the natives are clever, and with education simply learn the duplicity of the white race; loudly they sing the lotu hymns as they grin in their hearts over the change in things for the better!
Now I am approaching the end of my stay in Fiji. I had my few belongings packed, for I had been promised a berth aboard the Frigate Bird, that lay in Suva harbour and was due to leave in a few days. It had been a swelteringly hot day. I had told Mabau that I was going away, and from her learnt that Vituo had completely thrown her over and was much in love with the white woman who had stayed at Suva. ”

“ They respect the white man, which cannot be said of many aboriginal races. Fijians cannot stand the effects of liquor, and any person selling them alcoholic drinks is liable to a fine of fifty pounds.
The day before we arrived at Suva, we sighted several small islands, among them Fortuna and Alofa, which are in the French Protectorate, the resident governor being located at Wallis, a day's steam to the northeast.
Leaving Suva, we headed for New Zealand. Owing to smallpox in Sydney, nearly all of the Makura's passengers had to be vaccinated, which created a windfall for the ship's doctor. ”

“ They came from the world that she knew and loved so well, throbbing centre of civilization such as Levuka and Suva, where governors and their ladies drove in glittering carriages, where immense ships unloaded impossible freights of passengers and cargo on to the groaning wharves, and where, incidentally, it was possible to amass a fortune by merely looking as charming as one happened to be, and selling imitation pink coral to credulous tourists. ”

“ The Roku Kandavu Levu, a most attractive young man whom I saw more of later in Suva, left on a journey up the Rewa on the evening of my arrival, but not, however, before telling the Mbuli or headman to give me the "freedom of the city" and turning me over to a couple of young British madcaps, who had been his guests for a fortnight, with instructions to "keep the ball rolling." ”

“ In the district of Tongalevu blackish olivine-basalts and basaltic andesites of the usual character are found. In the Na Suva range, which lies two miles inland from the shores of Nasawana Bay and forms the southerly extension of the mountain, a somewhat compact variety of olivine-basalt (sp. gr. 2·92) prevails up to the summit, 1,550 feet above the sea. ”

“ Today in Suva the tourist admires the picturesqueness of these Asiatics, brightening the streets with turbans and silken saris. In the early ’80’s they were first brought in as laborers, and succeeding shiploads increased them to 50,000. With natural progeny they grew to some 85,000, by the 1936 census. Fiji colonials began by believing that such immigrants were needed for industrial development; but in 1916 the indenturing of Indians ceased. Since then more of them have left than have entered. Those who leave are usually old; the re-entering ones are usually young adults. ”

“ The poor beggars were burnt up—I never saw men so completely frizzled; Frenchmen—one a very big man, one a very little—awfully plucky little chap, said he was 'all ar-right,' only wanted water, and was trying to make Suva from Tahiti! ”

“ I kissed the hand she offered, and gazed as though in deep thought on the floor of the silent forest.
“Fanga, I must go back to Suva, but I will return some day,” I whispered, as I looked in fright on the giant trees, wondering if they could hear!
Then the girl fell on her knees, lifted her hands to the forest height, and cried out in this wise:
“Is not the world of love, the magic of the stars, flowers, and deep waters and touch of a maiden’s lips enough for such as you? Are not these trees that sigh over us our dear, great friends, and yours too, O white Papalagi? ”

“ Joyce for a while gloated over all that he saw and heard, but in a week he too sickened of Numea and ended the trip by taking a passage and paying mine also to Suva. There was a schooner just about to leave, so off we went, and after staying at Suva for a fortnight proceeded by another boat to Tonga and finally went across to Apia, where Joyce intended shipping for Sydney. ”

“ The voyage was momentous for its monotony, not one storm or passionate incident. O’Hara and I cursed everything, wished the sea yellow, the sun blue, and that the crew might mutiny and pitch the skipper overboard or cast us adrift on endless waters. Night after night we unbuttoned our clothes and thankfully 276“turned in” to rehearse a death-like existence in our small, coffin-shaped bunks. After arriving in Fiji and those things happening already narrated, we put up at the best hotel in Suva, scorning Smith’s bar and the old fan-tan shanty at Buta. ”

“ Colonials in Suva used to grumble, “Back in London they don’t know we’re alive.” But the politicians knew. Fiji became a dumping place for younger sons and Ministry favorites. Young chaps, green as grass and fresh as paint, were called “cadets,” and there was always a new cadet to fill the desk left vacant by retirement or promotion. Against the cadet system the experienced colonial, who knew the land and the people, hadn’t the ghost of a show.
Where the English are respected and not liked, the Americans are liked but not respected. ”

“ The ordeal takes place on the Island of Benga, which is near Suva, the capital of Fiji, and which, Mr. Delcasse says, "was the supposed residence of some of the old gods of Fiji, and was, therefore, considered a sacred land." Instead of walking on the live coals, as the Japanese priests do, the Fijians walk on stones that have been brought to a white heat in a great fire of logs.
The familiar claim is made that the performance puzzles scientists, and that no satisfactory solution has yet been discovered. ”

“ I see by the entry in my diary of that date that I had just got five shillings in my exchequer when I decided to leave Suva.
Other entries show that I made several efforts to trace Waylao, also that it was necessary to fall back on my musical accomplishments in order to exist on something more appetising than coco-nuts. There’s nothing like an empty stomach to make a man play the violin in public. The romance and glory of Southern Seas are apt to fade away before the grey dawn of cold hunger. ”

“ Fanning Island lies almost in mid-Pacific, and halfway along the usual route from Sydney to Vancouver. A steamer from Sydney travels 1700 miles to its first stop at Suva; then 1900 on to Fanning Island; thence 3400 to Vancouver, the starting place of the Canadian-Pacific route to Europe. Fanning Island is in consequence the mid-Pacific station of the Pacific cable. The island and its near neighbour, Washington Island, are small coral islands with lagoons, on which coconuts have long been profitably cultivated. ”

“ The last thing I recall before dropping off to sleep was the sound of singing and beaten war-drums welling up from the village green. "The Fijians celebrate the triumph of the Polynesian," explained Bertie in answer to my look of inquiry. "That chant is one they used to sing on returning from a successful foray laden with the heads of many enemies. They seem to trace some similarity between the two occasions."
On the way back to Suva Tom told me about the Cave Man. "The chap is probably the strongest man [317] in Fiji," he said, "and as stupid as he is powerful. ”

“ Crossing Lake Mälar about four miles from his father's house, Gustavus hurried through the forests north of the lake with all the speed that a patriot's zeal could lend. To one companioned by happier thoughts the journey in those late autumn days must have been filled with delight. Dalarne, through which his journey lay, is the paradise of Sweden. As its name imports, it is "the land of valleys." The whole province stands high above the sea, rising higher as we travel farther north. ”

“ Tacitus makes the “Suebi,” or “Suevi,” inhabit the greater part of Germany as far as the frontier of the Slavs [Pg 109] (Sarmatians) and Finns on the east (and north ?) . The name, which possibly means the “hovering” people and is due to their roving existence, is perhaps rather to be regarded as a common designation for various Germanic tribes. After them he called the sea on the eastern coast of Germany, i.e., the Baltic, the Suebian Sea (“Suebicum mare”) . ”

“ Gustavus Vasa, a youth descended from the old line of kings, issued from the depths of the forest of Delecarlia, where he had been in hiding, and appeared as the deliverer of Sweden. He was one of those rare products of Nature, a great genius with all the qualities of a commander of men. His noble stature and an air of distinction brought him adherents the moment he appeared. ”

“ The Swedes are by Tacitus called Suiones, and he speaks of them thus:
“Next occur the communities of the Suiones, seated in the very sea, who, besides their strength in men and arms, also possess a naval force. The form of their vessels differs from ours in having a prow at each end, so that they are always ready to advance. They make no use of sails, nor have they regular benches of oars at the sides: they row, as is practiced in some rivers, without order, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the other, as occasion requires. These people honor wealth ”

“ From the earliest times of which we have any authentic information there were in Sweden two more or less distinct peoples,—the Göta or Goths in the south, and the Svea or Swedes in the north. They spoke similar languages, were of the same Teutonic stock, and had like customs, institutions, and religious beliefs; but these facts did not prevent them from regarding one another with jealousy and dislike. The most powerful king among these peoples was the king at Upsala. ”

“ One pities the poor Swedes in losing their short summer, for there are only about three months without snow, and every day is precious. The streets are sopping, but we have managed several excursions in the covered gondolas to quiet damp old palaces on the banks of lonely fiords. On our one fine day we went to Upsala by rail, and saw the cathedral where Gustavus Wasa lies aloft on a great tomb between his two pretty little wives, and we drove on to Old Upsala, where Odin, Thor, and Freya reigned as human beings and were buried as gods. ”

“ From Gustavus Vasa, the emancipator of Sweden from the tyranny of the Danes, who ascended the throne in 1523, to Charles XII., the terror and pride of Europe, who lost his life in 1718, there was not one sovereign of the House of Vasa who did not in some ways show the marks of fine and original genius. Well may the historian of Sweden exclaim, ‘The history of Sweden is the history of her kings,’ for in few countries have national characteristics and national development been so intimately bound up with the monarchy. ”

“ When the king had praised Śiva in these words and fasted for three nights, the god appeared to him in a dream, and spake as follows: “Rise up, O king, there shall be born to thee a heroic son that shall uphold thy race. And thou shalt also obtain by the favour of Gaurí, a glorious daughter who is destined to be the queen of that treasure-house of glory, Naraváhanadatta, your future emperor.” When Śiva had said this, he disappeared, and Hemaprabha woke up, delighted, at the close of night. ”

“ There is also a similarity between the Swedish and Swiss struggle for freedom. There it was the oppression of the Danish bailiffs, here of the Austrian bailiffs, in the names of their respective masters, which armed the people and converted herdsmen into warriors. But here the resemblance ceases, without the history of either people becoming less noble or less remarkable. The Dalecarlians gave themselves a leader and Sweden a king, in Gustavus Wasa. The men of the Forest Cantons gave themselves unity and power in the Sworn-Confederacy. ”