Sewer pipe

Definition and stakes

George M. Warren,  Sewage and sewerage of farm homes…

“ Sufficient earth should be removed from beneath the hubs to permit the joints to be made in a workmanlike manner.
The house sewer may be vitrified salt-glazed sewer pipe, concrete pipe, or cast-iron soil pipe. The latter, with poured and calked lead joints makes a permanently water-tight and root-proof sewer, which always should be used where the vicinity of a well must be passed; 4, 5, or 6-inch pipe may be used, depending mainly on the fall and in less degree on the quantity of sewage discharged. As a measure of economy the 4-inch size is favored for iron pipe.
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Source: Gutenberg

Portrait of Isaac Phillips Roberts Isaac Phillips Roberts,  The farmstead: The making of the rural home and the lay-out of the farm (1900)

“ The sewer pipe, on reaching the level of the ground, should pass directly out of the house, and should never be carried along under the first floor of the house. In the southern states and on the Pacific coast, pipes may run on the outside of the house, thus fulfilling ideally the principle that waste matter should be removed from the house as soon as possible. A few years ago there was much controversy over the placing of vent pipes in traps and in branches. ”
Source: Gutenberg

George M. Warren,  Sewage and sewerage of farm homes…

“ A typical two-chamber concrete tank is shown in Figure 23. Excepting the submerged outlet, all pipes within the tank and built into the masonry are cast-iron soil pipe with cast-iron [ 29 ] fittings. Vitrified or concrete sewer pipe and specials are generally used, as they are frequently more readily obtainable and a slight saving in first cost may be effected. Cast iron is less liable to be broken in handling or after being set rigidly in masonry, and the joints are more easily made water-tight. The submerged outlet is midway of the depth of liquid in the settling chamber. ”
Source: Gutenberg

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