Ardern Holt

“ The girl is conspicuous for her large straw hat, trimmed with ribbons, and worn over a fine head of curls, which frame the face. A special feature in her dress is the short shawl thrown over the shoulders and turned under the coloured scarf which encircles her waist, forming a bow with long ends on the right hip. The manner in which the boys have their hair arranged is characteristic of the period—a la Russe it would be called now, short over the eyebrows, and falling in curls on the shoulders, most becoming to youthful faces. ”

“ Long plain skirt of white cashmere, with a peplum tunic, one end caught up in the girdle, thus forming a lap filled with poppies, corn, cornflowers, catkins, pansies, forget-me-nots, and marguerites; the bodice low and full, with long pendent sleeves, the whole trimmed with rows of silver braid and fringe; the fair hair hangs over the shoulders entwined with flowers; a wreath on the head, and lisse veil studded with flowers; white satin shoes. It may also be carried out in silver tissue or white silk; long plain brocaded silk bodice opening heart shape, sleeves tight to wrist, puffed to elbow ”

“ In another dress Olivia wears a brocaded sacque opening to show a distinct front breadth, and a long apron of figured net matching the figured net fichu; the hair in curls and no cap; elbow-sleeves and mittens. And then again she wears a hood, cape, and white tippet. After the elopement, the sacque and front breadth are of red brocade made with a pointed bodice, elbow-sleeves, fichu, and muslin apron. The cap is most becoming. It is made with a large full crown, a close double plaiting of lace round, forming two scallops in front, like a window curtain. ”

“ The real dress is not suited to fancy costumes. Egyptian women out of doors wear a large square of checked cotton thrown over head and figure. A gold ornament is fastened between the eyes, and reaches to the top of forehead, secured to the yashmak of black crape or cashmere passed across the face, below the eyes to the back of ears, falling lower than the waist. A fellah woman wears a loose half high bodice of washing stuff, a necklace round throat, plain woollen skirt, a sash of many colours round waist, and a handkerchief gracefully twisted about the head. ”

“ Low square dress of silver brocade with high ruff at back and long train; short sleeves with large cuffs of gold-coloured satin, and three rows of soft lace below; under-skirt of gold tissue trimmed with Venetian point, and bunches of buttercups and paste ornaments; small stomacher to match; a garland of sunflowers across the skirt relieved by bows and two long tassels of bullion on the bodice; a spangled fichu with gold fringe; head-dress of cream feathers and gold aigrette. Third dress: Two shades of red and sacque of flowered crimson silk looped over a deep red plush dress with train ”

“ CHARLES II., PERIOD OF. The women's dress of this period is familiar from the bevy of beauties associated with it at Hampton Court in négligé attire. The bodices alone are stiff, but they expose rather than cover the bust and neck; the curled locks fall on the shoulders, and are simply confined by a row of pearls round the head; the arms are bare from the elbow; a train and distinct front breadth form the skirt, and there is a plethora of lace. ”

“ The usual rendering of a costume after Sir Joshua Reynolds at Fancy Balls is a white muslin dress, with tight sleeves, muslin fichu; powdered hair, a hat of coarse straw lined with blue, or a plush hat tied under the chin with blue ribbons; black embroidered shoes; a single row of diamonds or pearls round the throat, a diamond brooch in the fichu. Sometimes the dress is made with a deep-gathered flounce round the edge; it just touches the ground, and is always scanty. ”

“ Narrow skirt of white muslin, or mousseline de laine, ornamented with chain or satin stich; baby bodice with sash tied at the side supporting a bouquet; embroidered silk mittens; reticule of plush; large hat with soft crown and plume of feathers. Or, kilted skirt of chaudron nun's cloth, scalloped at edged and spotted with gold at every scallop; pointed panel and scarf in bengaline; plastron scarf and left side panel in blue taffetas, the two latter richly embroidered; habit bodice with long tails of pale blue satin, striped with chaudron velvet; stomacher and charm-holder of brown velvet ”

“ The Roman Peasant's dress is a short blue skirt, which may be trimmed with gold, a red upper skirt forming a point on the left side; a low white chemisette, the sleeves coming above the wrist; and on the lower portion of the arm only, over the white sleeve is one of red, like a gaiter. Roman lace and embroidery are often introduced on the top of the chemisette and shoulders; the bodice is a low black or red corselet forming points in front, bordered with gold and laced; a long apron of bright-coloured stripes is fastened round the waist, with no gathers, a third of it turning down outside. ”

“ A sideless gown of gold-coloured plush, edged with the fur-like brown marabout trimming, with a wide border of the same round the hem of the trailing skirt. The under-dress should be a spun silk jersey of a golden-brown tint, and the fur trimming of the over-dress should be clasped with golden "owches" down the front. The hair is confined within a net-like coif of gold wire or thread and pearls; while a wide gold kirtle, low on the hips, supports an embroidered pouch of brown and gold. The shoes, of brown velvet, are worked with gold, and made with very long, peaked toes. ”

“ SUMMER. A white or pink gauze, lisse, or tulle evening dress, liberally trimmed with summer flowers, especially roses; it is sufficient to wear a wreath of the same, but a veil with butterflies is a more decided fancy dress, or a straw hat, with flowers and butterflies. Scattered rose leaves on the skirt add to the effect, interspersed with butterflies and green beetles; a basket of flowers in hand; necklet and earrings of China roses. Or, dress of blue and crimson brocade, with fringes of flowers. July is dressed in the same fashion. ”

“ MEDORA. Amber satin petticoat, trimmed with gold; Greek bodice and tunic of black satin; hair in plaits, round Oriental satin cap embroidered in gold, with gauze veil.
MEDUSA. Black classic dress of soft cashmere, trimmed with lizards, scorpions, and dragons; snakes in hair, and snakes for ornaments.
MEG MERRILIES (Heart of Mid-Lothian) . Blue riding jacket with gold lace; hair clubbed like a man, a bunch of broken feathers attached; riding skirt, gloves, bunch of old faded flowers in front, whip in hand. ”

“ DINORAH. Hair in two long plaits; light blue skirt, with bands of black velvet; lace-edged apron; white chemisette, with long sleeves to wrist; blue square corselet bodice, laced and trimmed with silver and black velvet.
DIRECTOIRE, 1795, COSTUME OF. This is a favourite style of dress at fancy balls, and admits of many good combinations of colour. After the great Revolution towards the close of the last century, women launched into all kinds of eccentricities. Wonderful head-dresses were originated. ”

“ Sometimes blue satin is worn with the white, but it does not make the dress so distinctive. The adoption of a blue-grey mantle, covered with tufts of swansdown, is meant to show that winter is not always bright. Crystal or diamond ornaments are the most appropriate. Or, dress of green satin, bordered with twigs and evergreens; marabout feathers scattered over skirt and bodice; a veil treated in the same way enveloping the figure. An Arctic Maiden or Arctic Queen wears the same style of white dress, trimmed with tufts of swansdown, and forked with tongues of talc cloth to imitate icicles ”

“ A dark green or lemon-coloured tulle dress, bordered with rows of peacock-eye feathers, headed by gold twist; bunches of the feathers are arranged on either side, and bands of the feathers round the train, the skirt draped with crêpe; the same bordering the low satin or plush bodice, feather epaulettes; the tail, like a large fan, takes the place of a ruff from behind the shoulders, and the head and neck of the bird form a cap, from which a veil depends; gloves with gauntlets; bands of peacock's feathers, necklace, feathers mounted on lace; fan of peacock's feathers ”

“ Snow and Frost have icicles and glittering crystal drops, with crystal fringe introduced. Satin is more suitable with the tulle than silk, and bands of swansdown make admirable trimmings. Silver is often used, but crystal is more appropriate, though a tunic and bodice of silver cloth veiled in tulle has a good effect for Frost and Snow. The hair should float on the shoulders, and be covered with frosting powder. Satin shoes, and long gloves bordered with swansdown. For a Snow-storm on a Dark Night, black is used instead of white, trimmed with jet and swansdown. ”

“ More homely women wore plain skirts, an upper one of a contrasting tone; pointed bodices, high to the throat, with a plain turn-down collar from the throat: the full sleeves to elbow are caught up with jewels at the bend of the arm; the shoes high on the instep, and very high in the heel, with roses or buckles. The following is a good dress:—Blue and gold brocade, with flounces of gold embroidery and point d'Alengon lace, and train of old gold satin; puffed petticoat looped at the side with bows, pearls, and lace; bodice low with sleeves fastened in to elbow with diamond ornaments ”

“ The surcoat opens over jewelled stomacher and kirtle, and is bordered down the sides and bodice with ermine. The bodice is pointed at waist, square at neck; chemisette of satin, quilted with pearls inside; close honeycomb ruff at throat, a velvet coif, like Marie Stuart's, less pointed, bordered with pearls; gauze veil. Long hanging velvet sleeves, tight under-ones of satin, with ruffles; cloth of gold, the richest jewels, velvet, and brocade are admissible for her more prosperous days. Jewelled girdle, often pearls. The skirt or surcoat is full, and touches the ground. ”

“ Another costume for Moon is a dress of soft white silk, trimmed and bordered with brown velvet cut in Vandykes, three-quarter moons in gold cloth or yellow silk appliquéd on the velvet; plastron placed on low bodice, the same on short sleeves; blue scarf round waist, edged with gold; gold and silver-spangled tulle round neck; small silver-spangled cap with a bunch of arrows, surmounted by crescent, on one side. Or, a dress trimmed with moonlight tints on grey and silver; an electric star in hair is a novel feature. A blue gauze dress, or sometimes green, may be worn. ”

“ She is also described by Planché as wearing a kirtle and mantle of white cloth of gold, trimmed with Venetian gold, furred with ermine "garnished with seventy annulets of silver gilt and gylt." At fancy balls she appears in a pale green satin skirt, bordered with a trellis-work of gold, edged with fur; close fitting jacket edged with ermine; turnover collar and cuffs of fur. Hair in ringlets, surmounted by gold caul, with a kerchief at the back of fine lawn distended with wire; trained mantle from shoulders, of velvet bordered with fur. A crown is often the only head-dress. ”

“ PERSIAN. The women wear clinging draperies; the bodice, cut in one with the skirt, fitting the figure closely, made half high, the sleeves tight to the wrist, and armlets over them above the elbow; jewelled girdles round the waist; a sort of coif on the head, with a gold-spangled veil of some soft fabric, the hair loose or in plaits on the shoulders. Oriental-looking satin or cashmere, bespangled with silver crescents and stars, are most appropriate; ornaments of coins and beads. ”

“ Sometimes a chiffonier's basket is carried at the back filled with flowers, and a Normandy cap worn. A pretty dress is a laced bodice and skirt of pale blue serge, edged with rows of velvet; cambric apron; basket of flowers; sleeves puffed to wrist. Or, a pink sateen, with black velvet bodice. A Vaudois flower girl wears a wheel-shaped lace cap, and straw hat above, with woollen skirt; square bodice; low under-bodice; velvet yoke, and ribbon streamers. Sometimes bright-coloured silk handerchiefs are draped about the head. ”

“ FLORA. A white silver-spangled tulle evening dress covered with flowers; shoes embroidered with the same; veil dotted with small blossoms; a maypole or a cornucopia carried in the hand. Or a classic dress with floral insignias.
FLORIAN SHEPHERDESS. Short skirt, trimmed with white flounces; lilac silk tunic, looped with garlands of flowers; pink silk tunic draped as paniers; pointed bodice; muslin stomacher crossed with ribbons, rosettes at each side; the bodice bordered with pink passementerie, short sleeves, silk cape, with ruffles; pink hat, lined with lilac, pink roses; crook with flowers. ”

“ Yellow and brown silk and violet velvet, the skirt of the velvet touching the ground; the bodice a low square with square ruff, lace edged; the hair in curls; the bodice, which has a broad rounded point, has jewels in front on a yellow stomacher; the sleeves have an upper puff of violet, an elbow puff slashed with brown and yellow, puffs of yellow to wrist, with turn-back cuffs; the two colours are blended in the trimmings on the skirt mixed with jewels; a feather fan is carried in the hand; a large-brimmed, low-crowned hat, turned up on one side with ostrich plumes and jewel. ”

“ POLISH PEASANT at a Fancy Ball is very unlike the veritable peasant; the correct dress would be a striped woollen skirt; a scarlet bodice laced in front, and trimmed with yellow, over a high white chemisette, with long sleeves; and for a bride, a cap with as many ends of ribbon of all colours and widths as can be procured, replaced on less gala occasions by a cotton handkerchief folded first cornerwise, then the double-edge folded back twice, about 3 inches broad, and tied behind ”

“ THIRTEENTH CENTURY, A LADY OF THE, makes a very effective dress. Ruby velvet skirt trimmed with silver lace; cream-coloured brocade for front breadth and bodice, with long sleeves; high-pointed head-dress and silver-spangled veil.
THRALE, MRS. (Georgian dress) . White silk sacque, the front covered with lace; powdered hair; white cap.
TIME. An evening dress of black and white tulle; with cuirass bodice, and red Dutch clocks hanging at the side; the several hours in Roman letters round the tunic; an hour-glass and scythe for châtelaine. ”