Clements Robert Markham

“ We propose to institute a comparison between the modes of traveling past and present, and to describe the work that will fall to the lot of an exploring expedition during the space of twelve months. The best route for polar exploration is the one that has been so unanimously advocated by all arctic authorities both of our own and other countries, and the one that is to be adopted by the expedition about to leave our shores. There are many reasons why the route via Smith Sound is superior to and more advantageous for polar exploration than any other. ”

“ Too much care cannot be taken in the stowage and lashing of the sledge. The greatest weight should be over the centre cross-bar, diminishing toward the end, so that the sledge will rise easily and gradually, and descend in the same manner, when traveling over rough or hummocky ice. A well-packed, that is, a well-trimmed, sledge is dragged with less exertion, and less jerking to the men's shoulders, when going over rough ice, than one that has been carelessly packed. ”

“ The only means of escaping destruction is by cutting a dock in the land-ice and warping the ship into it. Steam, however, has of late years produced such a revolution in ice-navigation, that the animated scene of 200 or 300 seamen landed on the floe, busily employed in the operation of cutting docks, is now seldom or never witnessed. The last English Government Expedition, that of Sir Edward Belcher, took no less than five weeks going through Melville Bay, although the expedition was accompanied by a couple of steam-tenders, commanded by experienced and energetic officers. ”

“ We now come to the most important feature of arctic work, namely, the sledge-traveling, which was first introduced by the late Admiral Sir Edward Parry, but which is most indissolubly associated with the name of McClintock, whose perseverance and energy have brought this system of traveling to such a state of perfection that we rely chiefly on its aid to procure for the forthcoming expedition that success which all England heartily and eagerly desires, and hopefully anticipates. ”

“ While dragging the sledges it is very necessary to keep continually changing the leading men on the drag-ropes, as on them rests the severe task of exerting their eyes in order to pick their road, and they are therefore more subject to snow-blindness than the others. The officer, when not engaged in dragging the sledge, should be very particular in selecting a good and easy line of country ”

“ The coverlet, lower robe, and sleeping-bag, answer well when the temperature is no lower than-30°, but should it fall lower, an additional coverlet should be supplied, as well as a small blanket bag to put into the sleeping-bag to keep the feet warm. Should the temperature continue to fall, snow huts should be used, they being very much better and warmer than tents. A party of four men can, after a little practice, but themselves in about half an hour; one man cuts the blocks, another builds, and the other two carry the blocks and fill up chinks, etc. ”

“ Musk-oxen, deer, and ptarmigan, were seen in abundance, and many shot, the fresh meat from which materially assisted in the preservation of the health of the party.
The words of Sir Leopold McClintock are very true, and very significant, in epitomizing the results of arctic ice-travel. He says: "Truly may we arctic explorers exclaim, 'Knowledge is power!' It is now a comparatively easy matter to start with six or eight men, and a sledge laden with six or seven weeks' provisions, and to travel some 600 miles across desert wastes and frozen seas, from which no sustenance can be obtained. ”

“ When all the work is completed the men take off and hang up their moccasins or boots and blanket-wrappers, either upon the tent-ropes outside, or on the tent-line inside, according to the weather, brush themselves well, divest themselves of their overalls, and take up their respective places in the tent, the officer always at the head of the tent, the cook and cook's mate nearest the entrance, so that their rising does not disturb the rest. ”

“ Operations are commenced from the open water and carried on toward the ship. A hole is made in the ice by means of a drill some distance from its edge, and the charge is lowered down through this until it reaches the water and is placed immediately under the ice. The fuse is ignited, a sharp explosion takes place, and the ice is shattered and rent in all directions. Men in boats, and others armed with boat-hooks and long poles, at once assail the fragments, removing them from the channel into the open water. ”

“ The Smith Sound route is the best adapted for exploration by sledges, and in case of mishap or any unforeseen accident befalling the ships, it would simply be a matter of time for the ship's companies to travel south and reach the Danish settlements, or one of the Scotch whalers that annually frequent Baffin's Bay. The importance of reaching in the ships a high latitude lies in the consideration that every ten miles made good in the ship toward the north is two days' sledge-traveling saved. ”

“ If the wind is fresh, turn the sledge at right angles to it, and with sledge-sail to form a lee, sit-down. If very severe weather, pitch the tent, and sit inside without any tent-gear, or stop only five minutes for grog and biscuit. When halted for the night, and the tent is pitched, one man, after brushing himself well, goes inside, and receives and places all the gear, robes, knapsacks, sleeping-bags, etc. The cook prepares supper without delay. ”

“ The advantages a snow hut has over a tent-roofed house is, that should the temperature become high, the moisture overhead runs down the walls in the former, whereas in the latter it drips, and makes the tent so wet that when it freezes again it is almost impossible to spread it. ”

“ The entrance is as low as possible, and is cut the last thing by the man inside. When the temperature is low it will be found preferable to encamp on snow rather than on land, and still warmer upon ice when there is water underneath, which will materially add to the warmth and comfort of the encampment. ”

“ In place of the overall jumper and trousers, which are used merely as "snow-repellers" to keep out the light snow-drift, a suit made from the skin of the moose-deer well smoked would be found advantageous; the jumper should have a hood to pull up over one's cap in bad weather, and should have a large pocket in front to put one's mitts in when not in use. ”

“ If all the circumstances are favorable, Sir Leopold McClintock is of opinion that this is not too much; of course the men must be picked and well trained to sledge-work before setting out. Under no circumstances should this weight be exceeded, or even maintained for more than a very few days. When sledges are traveling in company, one gun each and much less ammunition will suffice. The sledges being prepared and every thing in readiness for a start, the men are assembled dressed in the following manner ”

“ Parry nobly persevered, fighting against obstacles that would have daunted and appalled many a brave man, until it was known that the drift of the ice on which they were traveling was faster to the southward than the progress they were making to the northward, and they were in consequence reluctantly compelled to abandon their project and return to their ship, which they succeeded in reaching after an absence of sixty-one days. ”

“ It will be found convenient to fit a light cross-bar across each end of the sledge, for the purpose of spreading a light netting, on which to stand the cooking-utensilsing-utensils, as they are usually the last things to go on the sledge and the first things to come off it. ”

“ Fuel may consist of different materials. There is the camphorated spirits of wine, whose great charm consists in its being camphorated, and therefore cannot well be tampered with by the men. Methyllated spirits of wine has also been much used, and is cheaper than pure alcohol. Sir Leopold McClintock, in the Fox, used crude cocoa-nut oil, which he found very useful and very cheap. ”

“ The moccasins should be made large, so as on no account to cramp the foot. They are only intended to be worn during extreme cold.
The daily allowance of provisions for those engaged in sledge-traveling is as follows: For each man, 1 lb. pemmican, 1⁄4lb. boiled pork, 14 ozs. biscuit, 2 ozs. preserved potatoes, 11⁄2 oz. prepared chocolate, 1⁄2oz. tea and sugar, 1 oz. concentrated rum; 4 ozs. fuel being used daily for each individual; also a weekly allowance per man of 13⁄4oz. salt, 1⁄4 oz. pepper, 1 oz. curry or onion powder, and 3 ozs. tobacco, making a weekly allowance per man of 19 lbs. ”

“ On either side of the keel was a stout wooden runner, shod with metal, similar to that of a sledge, on which the boat would travel when being dragged over the ice. A spar, made of hide, was secured across the fore-end of the runners, to which the drag-ropes were attached. The daily allowance of provisions for each man was 10 ozs. ”

“ Supper consists of warm pemmican, the quantity in each pannikin always being carefully equalized before being served out, then a drink of tea or water, when pipes are lighted and the party compose themselves for their night's rest ”

“ The above-mentioned woolen materials are on the whole preferable, as they are quite as warm as fur, when covered with the brown holland, in addition to which evaporation from the body will generally make its way through woolens, and escape into the air, but in the fur robe is arrested and condenses in it. ”

“ Although before turning back the party had traveled over 202 miles of ground, their greatest distance from the ship was only 172 miles, so much had the set drifted them to the southward. Notwithstanding these obstacles, and the enormous weight which each man had to drag, the latitude attained by Parry on this occasion has never been reached by known man. The experience gained during this enterprise has shown us a great deal. It proved that the allowance of provisions for the amount of work required, and for the hardships endured, was insufficient ”

“ This is attached to the drag-rope after the manner of a Blackwall hitch, the advantage being that the man can detach himself at any instant. Turk's-heads worked on the drag-ropes point out where the men are to attach themselves. The sledge-lashings consist of about twenty fathoms of one and one-quarter inch untarred rope, and are used for lashing the lading on the sledge. ”

“ Spare clothing in knapsack, altogether weighing twelve pounds.
The clothing supplied by Government to the various search expeditions was made of the most superior material, and was found excellent. It is hardly necessary to describe the different articles. Particular care should be exercised in the selection of under-clothing, which should be of the best and warmest substance. Outside clothing should fit loosely. ”

“ In his attempt to reach the pole, in 1827, Parry started in the same month of June, with four officers and twenty-four men, with seventy-one days' provisions, in two flat-bottomed boats named the Enterprise and Endeavor, so constructed that they could be used as sledges, and drawn on the ice. They were 20 feet long, and 7 feet broad, with a bamboo mast 19 feet long, a tanned duck-sail, steer-oar, fourteen paddles, a sprit and boat-hook. Each boat, with stores, etc., complete, weighed 3,753 lbs., making the weight for each man to drag 268 lbs.! ”

“ It is about seven feet long, and is best fitted with the opening in the side instead of at the top, as in this way it is more convenient to get into and out of, and the more readily enables a man to sit up and keep it over his head while eating his meals or while writing. ”