George William Askinson

“ If we find nevertheless a few animal substances generally used in perfumery, they should be considered rather as excellent means for fixing subtle vegetable odors than as fragrant bodies in the true sense. By themselves, indeed, they have an odor, but to most persons it is not agreeable even if properly diluted. Thus far only five substances of animal origin are employed in perfumery, namely: ambergris, castor, hyraceum, musk, and civet. ”

“ Sometimes the container costs many times the price of the perfume. But as the finest perfumes are articles of luxury in the truest sense of the word, they require extreme care in their putting up; and good taste in the selection of the containers for fluids, pomades, cosmetics, powders, etc., is of as much importance to the perfumer as the possession of a sensitive and trained olfactory organ. ”

“ We find it necessary to devote a special chapter to the adulterations of the commercial essential oils because an experience of many years has shown us that hardly any other group of products is subject to so many sophistications as essential oils. The high price of most aromatic substances and the difficulty of recognizing the adulteration furnish an inviting field to the unscrupulous manufacturer. ”

“ While in the last century face-painting was a universal fashion, it is nowadays resorted to only by persons whose skin requires some artificial help. But nobody desires that the cosmetic should be perceptible on the skin. Hence it must be laid down as a rule that paints and all cosmetics should be so compounded that it is not easily possible to the observer to recognize that some artificial means has been employed for beautifying the skin. ”

“ Note.—There is considerable confusion, in works on perfumery, regarding the terms essence and extract. In French works, essence always means “essential oil.” Thus “essence de rose” is “essential oil of roses,” or “attar (otto) of roses.” Extrait (French) is used of alcoholic solutions of oils, as well as alcoholic extracts of pomades, or of substances not wholly soluble in alcohol, and also of compound liquids. In English, essence is used, and should be confined to alcoholic solutions of essential oils (“essence of lemon,” “essence of peppermint”) . ”

“ From the animal kingdom we take for the purposes of perfumery only a very small number of substances, among which, moreover, some peculiar relation exists; while, for instance, all men would call the odor of violets, roses, vanilla, etc., agreeable, the odor of some animal substances is decidedly obnoxious to many persons, though others like it—an observation which can be verified often with reference to musk. ”

“ When a new odor has been prepared, the art of the perfumer consists in ascertaining by many experiments those substances which harmonize with it; for with few exceptions the finest grades of perfumes are not single odors but combinations of several which are in accord. ”

“ Of animal substances, musk is most frequently used in perfumery, and possesses the most agreeable odor of them all. Moreover, the odor of musk is the most intense that we know, actually imponderable quantities of it being sufficient to impart to a large body of air the strong odor of musk. This substance is derived from a deer which attains the size of a small goat and, like the chamois of the Alps, lives on the highest mountains of the Himalayas. Only the male animal (Moschus moschiferus) produces musk, which is secreted in a sac or rather gland near the sexual organ. ”

“ Despite the like chemical composition, all the essential oils display different physical qualities; they vary in density, in refractive power, in boiling-point (often by many degrees) , and, a matter of the greatest importance for our purposes, in their odor. We may state at once that but few essential oils can be said to have a pleasant odor; that of most of them is even disagreeable and narcotic to the olfactory nerves; it is only after the oil has been extremely diluted that the odor begins to become pleasant and to resemble that of the plant from which the oil was derived. ”

“ Besides the preparations enumerated in the preceding pages, we find in perfumery some products which are in favor on account of their fragrance and are suitable for scenting ladies’ writing-desks, sewing-baskets, boxes, and similar objects. They find their most appropriate use in places where an aromatic odor is desired, while there is no room for keeping the substances themselves. These must therefore be put into a small compass, and the aromatics chosen should be distinguished by great intensity and permanence of odor. ”

“ It will be easier to understand the almost incredible productiveness of perfumes if we cite as an instance that a few7 centigrams of musk placed on a sensitive scale can for years fill a large hall with their characteristic odor without showing an appreciable loss of weight, and still particles must separate from the musk and become evenly diffused through the air of the hall because the odor is perceptible throughout every part of it. ”

“ Strange to say, some essential oils or aromatic substances in general, develop their finest odors only when the perfumes are prepared with an alcohol from a certain source. While the charcoal treatment removes almost all the fusel oil, the remaining traces suffice to act as odorous substances in the true sense of the term and to produce with other aromatic bodies a harmony of the odor which can never be reached by the use of another variety of alcohol. ”

“ In manufacturing perfumery two groups of pomades are distinguished—those with a hard base, and those with a soft base. By base is meant the fat which is the vehicle of the odor in every pomade. The consistence of the substance depends upon its melting-point; lard and beef marrow, having a low melting-point, furnish soft pomades; while beef and mutton tallow, which often receive an addition of paraffin, wax, or spermaceti in order to make them firmer, have a higher melting-point and serve for hard pomades. ”

“ Pomades or huiles antiques are never completely exhausted by a single treatment with alcohol. Even when heat is employed they always retain a portion of the aromatic with great tenacity; a second and third infusion still abstracts odor from them, and finally nothing remains but pure fat with a pleasant odor which is stained and sold commercially as pomade under the name of the respective odor—violet, orange flower, reseda, etc.—or else is used over again in the factory for the extraction of flowers. ”

“ In like manner we cannot speak with approval of the preparations used to color the hair, either from a chemico-sanitary or from an æsthetic standpoint; many of them contain substances which positively injure the hair or impart to it an unnatural color which is detected at first sight. But a well-made cosmetic should never produce this effect, and nature must be faithfully imitated if the preparation is to deserve the name of a cosmetic. ”

“ Like oil of nutmeg, it is extensively used in the manufacture of liqueurs and for scenting soap. The oil prepared by distillation from the nutmeg is, when fresh, almost colorless or at most faintly yellow, of a burning sharp taste, and an aromatic odor. Like oil of mace, it is used in the manufacture of liqueurs and soaps and also in many perfumes.
In India a third valuable product is obtained from the nutmeg by expression of the ripe fruits and is called nutmeg butter. This is bright yellow and consists of a true fat and an essential oil. ”

“ The variety of fusel oil differs with the raw material from which the alcohol was made; there is a potato fusel oil (chemically amyl alcohol) , a corn fusel oil, a beet fusel oil, wine fusel oil (œnanthic ether) , etc. Fusel oils, being themselves odorous substances, exert an influence on the fragrance of the perfume; hence it is a general rule in perfumery to use only alcohol free from fusel oil; that is, such from which the fusel oil has been extracted as far as possible by means of fresh charcoal. So-called “Cologne Spirit” of the best quality is, as a rule, practically free from it. ”

“ In the distillation of petroleum there remain in the still as a residue large quantities of a substance which when purified is colorless and, according to the nature of the petroleum, at ordinary temperatures has either the consistence of lard, melting under the heat of the hand, or forms an oily liquid. In perfumery vaselin can be used like fat or oil, over which it has the advantage in that it always remains odorless and free from acid; hence it is very appropriate for the manufacture of pomades. ”

“ Fortunately we know two substances which materially counteract the tendency of fats to become rancid: salicylic acid and benzoin. Either of these substances is added to many perfumery articles, especially pomades, in order to prevent rancidity; an admixture of from one-one-thousandth to five-one-thousandths parts of solid salicylic acid suffices, according to our experiments, for the purpose; of benzoin we need about three-fourths of an ounce for every quart of fat; the resin is only partly soluble in fat, but imparts to it its vanilla-like odor. ”

“ In perfumery, an 85% acid is sufficiently strong. It forms a colorless liquid with a narcotic odor and an intensely acid taste; it congeals into glassy crystals at a temperature of 8.5° C. (47° F.) . The latter property is of importance as showing the purity of the acid. Concentrated acetic acid, like alcohol, dissolves aromatic substances, with which it forms perfumes which differ from those made with alcohol mainly by their peculiar refreshing after-odor which is due to the acetic acid. ”

“ Fresh oil of patchouly is brown in color, very viscid, almost like balsam, and surpasses all other essential oils in the intensity of its odor. Owing to the strong odor, pure oil of patchouly must really be called ill-smelling; only when highly diluted does the odor become pleasant, and then forms a useful ingredient of many perfumes as the fundamental odor in the harmony. ”

“ After one or two days the mass is distilled; the distillate being a colorless liquid, containing, besides oil of bitter almonds, hydrogen cyanide or prussic acid, one of the most virulent poisons, from which it must be freed. This is done by shaking the liquid repeatedly with dilute solution of potassa, followed by agitation with water. Pure oil of bitter almonds is not poisonous, but has a very strong narcotic odor of bitter almonds, which, however, becomes most marked when largely diluted with water. ”

“ Internally good fresh vanilla is so oily that it stains the fingers on being crushed and is filled with numerous shining seeds the size of a small pin’s head. These properties, together with the plump appearance and great weight, mark good qualities. Old vanilla, whose odor is fainter and less fragrant, may be recognized by its wrinkled surface, the absence of the white dust, the slight weight, and the bent ends of the capsules. Fraudulent dealers endeavor to give such old goods a fresher appearance by coating them with almond oil or Peru54 balsam. ”

“ Balsams are essential oils which have to a great extent changed into resin, which they contain in solution, and thereby have become more or less viscid. If the process of oxidation goes still farther, eventually the greater portion of the essential oil becomes oxidized, the entire mass grows firm, and then possesses only a very faint odor which is due to the last remnants of the unchanged essential oil.
Since aromatic substances during evaporation become mixed with air, it appears probable that they act upon the olfactory nerves only at the moment when they become oxidized. ”