Herbert C. White

“ Beyond this entrance, one stands with almost breathless awe face to face with a huge rotunda known as the Ch'i Nien Tien. "Springing upwards from a three-tiered marble terrace, the Temple of the Happy Year' rises ninety-nine feat into the air, a magnificent triple-roofed, azure-tiled, gold-capped shrine." This beautiful "Hall of Supplication for the Annual Harvest" is far loftier than the "Imperial World," and its huge marble terraces are broader even than those of the sacred southern altar. ”

“ Much that is grand in the conception and plan of the wonderful Forbidden City, we owe to the hardy space-loving Mongols, but to Yung Le, the mighty builder of the most noteworthy palaces and temples of Peking, we are indebted for the Forbidden City as it stands to-day. "The famous Du Mên, or Meridian Gate" (see opposite plate) , is the official entrance to the inner Forbidden City, and is the grandest of all the palace gates." This huge fortress-like structure, with its five massive towers, is second only to the great Throne Hall itself in beauty of line and massive splendor. ”

“ ATHERED together within the sheltering arms of the beautiful Western Hills are numberless interesting temples and shrines. No other spot in the world, except perhaps the lamaseries of Tibet, harbors so many religious institutions. Hoary with age, and steeped in the romance and mystery of the past, these quiet mountain monasteries breathe an at 3 mosphere of peace and intellectual repose. As day after day we wander over the mountains, discovering at every turn in the way some new temple or out-of-the way shrine, we are led to wonder how this spot came to be such a center of religious culture. ”

“ Standing foursquare, amid groves of venerable cedars, this lofty shrine with its spacious verandas and delicate tracery, surmounted by the pide-spreading, double-eaved roof of Imperial yellow tile and capped by a gilded ball, is conceded by many to be the finest example of Chinese architecture in existence. Added beauty lies in the fact that the whole edifice stands in the midst of a circular pond. crossed by four marble bridges which lead up to the great doors. ”

“ The greatness, the vastness the glory of such celebrated places as the Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven, the Great Wall, or the Summer Palace, grips the imagination and holds one spellbound and humble before these emblems of an ancient and glorious past. For a long time there has been a recognized need for an album on historic Peking that would embody a representative set of all the important monuments of the capital. ”

“ Beyond these, and fronting the palace gateway, are two huge bronze lions. Towering above the quardians of the gate, and surmounting a broad marble terrace, rise the lacquered pillars and stately walls of the T'ai Ho Mên, the Gate of Supreme Harmony. And beyond all these, lifting its massive double roof of "golden" tiles above the surrounding palaces and temples, can be seen the greatest piece of Chinese architecture in all the land—the glorious T'ai Ho Tien, or Throne Hall of Supreme Harmony. ”

“ As one stands before this glorious shrine the mind reverts to those days when, at the mystic hour just before the dawn, the emperor himself knelt in humble adoration before his Sovereign Lord, And as the smoke of the whole burnt offering rose in clouds of white incense toward Heaven, the Spirit of God was believed to descend and rest upon this tablet erected to His name, while he communed with His suppliant child, just as in the time of ancient Israel God's presence was manifested above the Shekinah glory while He revealed His will to men. ”

“ All that the lavish hand of nature could bestow, combined with the best that human art and skill could devise, seems here to be brought together to enrich the spot and make it beautiful Gardens and flowers, hills and groves, mountains and lakes, islands and bridges, temples and pagodas, in all their natural and artistic splendor, make a rare setting for the elegant verandahed pavilions and spacious courtyards which compose the Imperial summer home. ”

“ From our vantage point on the highest platform, most magnificent views can be had of all the surrounding plain. Nowhere but from this highest pagoda can we command such a wonderful bird's-eye view of beautiful Yi Ho Yuan, trace the outline of the lovely lake, note the position of bridges, islands, pavilions, and gilded palaces, and at the same time gaze over the peaceful sunlit rice fields to the glorious panorama of the Western Hills, with its peaceful groves and age-old monasteries. ”

“ As we leave the protecting towers of old Anting Mên, and wend our way northward over the dusty plain toward the massive walls of this ancient Buddhist monastery, with its temple roofs of yellow tile gleaming like gold in the sunlight, we follow in the footsteps of thousands of faithful devotees who for centuries have come here "to gaze with reverent awe and place their votive offerings before the temple shrine." ”

“ Mammoth walls and towers are being tor from their foundations; famous monuments are falling into decay; precious works of art are slowly disintegrating; celestial globes are losing their bronze, sun-kissed ornaments; priceless treasures are mysteriously disappearing from their age-old pedestals; and just as the miniature "sun" has vanished from the paw of the dragon, so the glory of past splendor is slowly but surely slipping away from Peking under the hands of the less reverent sons and daughters of this ultra-republican age. ”

“ At best it is no easy climb, and halfway up we stop to rest under the inviting shade of Ch'ien Lung's famous Bronze Pavilion that still stands on the spot that the emperor selected for it-a marble terrace overlooking the jade-green waters of the lake. This highly-omamented tittle structure, glowing in its rich bronze tones, is graced with a double roof which reaches twenty feet and more above the pavement. It is surrounded by a marble terrace ascended on three sides by broad stone stairways, and is flanked by sculptured balustrades. ”

“ Executed in bold relief upon throne and screen, we find the carved figures of just ninety-nine dragons; and whenever the emperor, the True Dragon, ascended his lofty throne, the number was complete-one hundred dragons occupied the "Dragon Throne." How the hearts of those old envoys to the celestial court must have thrilled as they mounted the five-tiered marble steps leading into the presence of majesty? Even in these Republican days our hearts thrill with the grandeur of it all as we stand on these glittering stairs before the throne. ”

“ From the shining balustrades of polished marble to the peak of the gently stoping roofs of "golden" tile, this beautiful gateway is in a state of excellent preservation. The harmony in the rich Oriental decoration is perfect. The massive wooden pillars that support the roof, as well as the delicate tracery on windows and doors, are painted a rich maroon, while the eaves are elaborately decorated in shades of white, blue, green, and gold. ”

“ Towering far above the surrounding homes of the people, and overshadowing even the most princely of the temples and palaces, for seven centuries these two veterans have played an important part in the lives of the dwellers within the walls. For many millions all down through the years, the very habits of life have been guided and circumscribed by the deep notes of that giant curfew and the thunder tones of the great drums in the tower. Here is what Marco Polo says: "In the middle of the city there is a great clock-that is to say a bell -- which is struck at night. ”

“ If we compare the beauty and purity of line here to the over-elaborate Hindu and Indo-Chinese art, we must admit the superiority of an instinctive classical taste which well knows the greatest architectural secret of decorating a construction, but never descends to construct a decoration, and as one enters into a sympathetic study of these vast monuments which have survived the storms of five long centuries, he cannot help but appreciate the genius of Yung lê's architects, who created monuments in harmony with all that is grand in all the world. ”

“ The outside of the roof is also all covered with vermilion and yellow and green and blue and other hues, which are fixed with a varnish so fine and exquisite that they shine like crystal, and lend a respondent luster to the Palace as seen for a great way round. This roof is made, too, with such strength and solidity that it is fit to last forever." While perhaps not nearly so large as its predecessor of Marco Polo's day, the gorgeous T'ai Ho Tien, which for more than four centuries has graced the courts of the Forbidden City, is truly a wonderful work of engineering and Oriental art. ”

“ It is with a curious feeling that we watch the little sun-browned children, their mouths filled with sweets from the ancient candy wagon, turn their shining faces toward the roaring sky to watch two army planes in their flight; and we wonder how much they comprehend of the new and marvelous age in which they live. The vendors of Peking, with their curious methods of transporting their merchandise, their queer calls, and novel contraptions all lend enchantment to the dweller within the walls of the Capital Among the most interesting of the common street sights are the camel caravans. ”

“ To form any idea of it one must recall those enchanted gardens which authors of vivid imagination have described so beautifully. Canals winding between artificial mountains form a network through the grounds, in some places passing over rocks, then forming lovely lakes bordered by marble terraces. Devious paths lead to enchanting dwelling pavilions and spacious halls of audience, some on the water's edge, others on the slopes of hills or in pleasant valleys, fragrant with flowering trees which are here very common. ”

“ As we stand with silent worshipers beneath the shadow of this proud monument, with its massive proportions, its exquisite sculpture, and its golden crown, in its picturesque setting amid shady groves of cypress and pine, we are deeply impressed with the rare ability of the Chinese sovereigns to choose the sites for their temples and shrines, "so that the beauties of nature should enhance the work of the religious architect." ”

“ Passing over the broad smooth flagstones of the marble bridge, we enjoy a pleasant hour or two roaming around the tiny artificial island-through cool, inviting rockeries, into the deep recesses of caves, under the green canopy of trees, around pretty pavilions, while glazed-tile roofs abounding in the old royal colors of yellow, green, and blue, look down upon us. This island in miniature stands on foundations of solid marble and, ac cording to some historians, dates back to the times of the early Ming emperors. ”

“ This is due not only to its historic monuments which rival in age and beauty those of any other city--but also to its unique and fascinating life. High walls and spirit screens hide $ from view the homes of Peking's most interesting people, yet the Se street affords an endless study of their life, their habits, their work, and their play. The unceasing parade of old and new in ever-shifting combination, never ceases to thrill us when we leave our quiet compound gate. ”

“ Fronting the impressive red walls of this huge archway there runs a picturesque canal, flanked by pillared balustrades and crossed by five marble bridges. These bridges, gently curved, and marvelously decorated, are again fronted by two marble pillars smoothed with soft sculpture to reflect a ceaseless sunshine, and rise into a cloudless sky." As will be seen from the picture, the roof is easily the most remarkable feature of this splendid structure. Indeed, the roof has always been the outstanding characteristic in Chinese architecture. ”

“ And what a blessing to the Capital that this is so! For when war comes, and rolling-stock is scarce, what would become of its inhabitants without coal to warm their homes in winter, or lime with which to build their houses, or the other supplies so necessary to human existence? And so the long lines of camels, with their hardy drivers, come to mean more than a passing curiosity; they stand as symbols of security and safety to the dwellers within the walls. ”