Robert E. Peary

“ The ice outside of us was constantly in motion, more or less active with the currents of the tides, and about the middle of October the young ice incessantly forming between the large floes became of such thickness, that its crushing up rendered the movement of the ice very audible. First as a loud murmur, later with increasing cold as a hoarse roar, sometimes continuous, sometimes intermittent, like heavy surf upon the shore, which kept the air vibrating, and coming as it did through the darkness and frequently snow-filled air, contained a peculiarly savage and foreboding note. ”

“ At other times, the blue face of a big floe as high as the plank sheer grinding against either side, and the ship inching her way through, her frames creaking with the pressure, the big engines down aft running like sewing-machines, and the twelve-inch steel shaft whirling the wide-bladed propeller, till its impulse was no more to be denied than the force of gravity. ”

“ We had already made a good day’s march. Now we had to duplicate it without rest or food. When at last we stumbled into camp I was nearly blind from the effects of the cutting snow and wind, and completely done up with the long continued exertion. The interest and excitement of the advance were gone, the reaction had come, and my feet dragged like lead. As a matter of fact the return journey, after the eagerness and excitement of pushing ahead is over, is always the hardest part of the work. ”

“ The causes of death among the men come largely under the terse Western expression, ‘with their boots on.’
“A kayak capsizes, and the occupant is hurled into the icy water; a hunter harpoons a walrus or bearded seal from the ice, a bight of the line catches round arm or leg, and the big brute drags him under to his death; an iceberg capsizes as he is passing it; a rock or snowslide from the steep shore cliffs crushes him; or a bear tears him mortally with a stroke of his paw: and so on. Occasionally, in the past, starvation has wiped out an entire village. ”

“ The wind not quite so violent, but still continuing with a heavy drift that made travelling out of the question.
Temporarily at least I had got past chafing at the delay and simply longed for the cessation of the infernal music, and to see the bright sun glinting on the ice-fields again, as a thin-blooded invalid in winter longs for the soft breath of summer.
I cheated as much of the time away as possible, planning what I would do when I got back, and then I ran against the black wall, unless I win here, all these 128things fall through. Success is what will give them existence. ”

“ The night of the 11th was a perfect Arctic autumn night. To the south over the land the sky pearl-white; west and northwest, about the couchant mass of Cape Joseph Henry, orange-yellow; north, over the Polar Sea, gray-white; east and southeast the snow-clad Greenland coast lay under the purple shadows of the coming “Great Night.” On the 12th a fresh southerly wind set the snow drifting savagely on all the uplands, flung out a long snow-banner from the summit of Rawson, and formed a 58broad lane of water reaching from behind Rawson past us and on toward Cape Henry. ”

“ Again I quote from my journal: “A wild morning with snow driving in horizontal sheets across the deck, the water like ink, the ice ghastly white, and the land invisible except close to us as we almost scrape against it on the port side. Summer is at an end and winter has commenced.” Scarcely had we made fast to the ice-foot when the ice filled the bay completely.
With the ebb-tide at night much of the ice inside of us passed out, grazing against our side, but no lead formed at the Cape and no opportunity occurred to get north. ”

“ I should have known better than to feel this way, for I certainly had sufficient Arctic experience to know that one should never feel encouraged at anything nor ever expect anything in these regions except the worst. On the second march south of the scar we came upon a region of huge pressure ridges running in every direction. It was an ominous sign, and I was not surprised a few hours later when an Eskimo whom I had sent in advance to reconnoitre a trail for the sledges, signalled to me from the summit of a pinnacle “open water.” ”

“ Our camp at the end of this march was at Repulse Harbour. All the way from the western end of the cliffs to the harbour we faced a strong and bitter wind and drift. We were now where Beaumont wrote and left his magnificent record of human endurance and courage ending with “God help us.” We were not as bad off as he and his party. We could all of us walk yet and I believed would all be able to walk to the ship, but it was essential that we get across the channel at once. We were getting weaker every day. ”

“ I did much more than my share of breaking a trail on this march, owing to the fact that my Eskimos could not keep a straight course in the fog. The glacier which we followed along, had a pronounced tidal crack delimiting its front, and outside of this the ice was pushed up in a great rounded ridge, a terminal moraine of ice in fact. It looked very much as if getting on to a coast with a different exposure (west instead of north) was going to result in quite different general characteristics. ”

“ Though I fight against it continuously, I find it impossible under conditions like to-day not to indulge in some thoughts of success as I tramp along, and I get so impatient that I do not want to stop at the igloos but keep right on and on. At night I can hardly sleep waiting for the dogs to get rested sufficiently to start again. Then I think, what will be the effect if some insuperable obstacle, open water, absolutely impossible ice, or an enormous fall of snow knock me out now when everything looks so encouraging? ”

“ We camped at Cape Alexandra on a patch of bare, dry gravel near what seemed to be the site of a river.
As the tent was set up, two brant flew over. A fine supper here of musk-ox steak, bacon, tea and biscuits, after which I sent two men up the valley to look for musk-ox, deer and hare. During this march a man without snowshoes would go in about knee deep. ”

“ It was a matter of constantly and smoothly gliding one past the other with utmost care and evenness of pressure, and from every man as he slid a snowshoe forward, undulations went out in every direction through the thin film incrusting the black water, The sledge was preceded and followed by a broad swell. ”

“ No other ship has been so far north in this region and but one other ship has reached so high a latitude anywhere in the entire circuit of the Polar Sea, and that one did not attain her vantage ground by stress of continued battle, as has the Roosevelt, but drifted to her position—helpless and inert in the grasp of the ice. ”

“ Another day, the sixth of the interminable gale. Will it never end? The wind and drift continue with unabated violence. For some three hours to-day, I pushed, and butted, and at times almost crawled on hands and knees, back and forth across the small floe on which we are camped. ”

“ To me the final and complete solution of the Polar mystery which has engaged the best thought and interest of some of the best men of the most vigorous and enlightened nations of the world for more than three centuries, and to-day quickens the pulse of every man or woman whose veins hold red blood, is the thing which should be done for the honour and credit of this country, the thing which it is intended that I should do, and the thing that I must do. ”

“ To-day has been quite hazy or smoky like the days immediately after we left the land which I do not like, as this means cracks or leads in the ice. But the weather we are having is just the thing, cold and calm, to cement the ice firmer and firmer, and quickly render any new cracks or leads passable. I hope it may continue so till we get back to the land; the colder and the calmer the better. I want no wind or mild weather until we are back on board ship.
March 26th.—A glorious day, and a splendid march, over the finest going and then—bang up against it, as I have been fearing all along. ”

“ The Roosevelt fought like a gladiator, turning, twisting, straining with all her force, smashing her full weight against the heavy floes whenever we could get room for a rush, and rearing upon them like a steeplechaser taking a fence. ”

“ New York, March 30, 1907 The Peary Arctic Club at a recent meeting resolved unanimously to place the Roosevelt on dry dock for a refitting, and to subsequently tender the same to Commander Peary for a final attempt to be made by him to reach the North Pole. Believing Commander Peary will be successful, the Club has taken this action, and they have every confidence in the gallant and intrepid American, and share in the pride that must animate the American people to see planted at the North Pole the American flag. ”

“ No excess of any kind—unless we can call “excess” the hearty eating which is necessary to the Eskimos’ existence. On the other hand, hunger is no particular hardship to these people. Their bodies are well-rounded, seemingly to answer the purpose of the camel’s hump.
Generosity and hospitality are characteristic. There is no such thing up North as individual poverty and riches. It is an unwritten law that when one man has been particularly fortunate in a hunting expedition, his tribe will share the net results. It is this feeling of good fellowship which preserves the race. ”

“ Since leaving Etah, we had passed the latitudes of the most northern extremities of Spitzbergen and Franz Joseph Land, and now only the northern points of the two most northern lands in the world, Cape Morris Jesup and Cape Columbia, lay a little beyond us. The northern-reaching fingers of all the rest of the great world lay far behind us below the ice-bound southern horizon. ”

“ There exists among these people a form of hysteria known as piblocto (the same name as given to the well-known madness among their dogs) , with which women, more frequently than men, are afflicted. During these spells, the maniac removes all clothing and prances about like a broncho. In 1898 while the Windward was in winter quarters off Cape D’Urville, a married woman was taken with one of these fits in the middle of night. In a state of perfect nudity she walked the deck of the ship; then, seeking still greater freedom, jumped the rail, on to the frozen snow and ice. ”

“ I was the first to set foot on the “new land,” a level patch of fine dark earth and gravel, and was greeted by numbers of purple Arctic flowers, and a few steps showed patches of grass, and moss, and old tracks and droppings of reindeer and hare. A few minutes later a skua gull flew over, and while the tent was being set up, a brant.
The tent completed, I filled Egingwah and Ooblooyah with coffee, and started them to reconnoitre the adjacent country thoroughly. They were gone about five hours, one going southeast, and the other southwest. ”

“ You, the man whom we join to honour to-night, you, who for month in and month out, year in and year out, had to face perils and overcome the greatest risks and difficulties with resting on your shoulders the undivided responsibility which meant life or death to you and your followers—you had to show in addition what the modern commander with his great responsibility does not have to show. ”

“ I found that our camp floe was an island; a broad lane of young ice separating it from the other ice. After passing two or three more narrow lanes of young ice, we got beyond the most pronounced traces of the recent disturbance, and travelled over heavy old ice, with snow somewhat deeper and softer than south of the “Big Lead.” There was no season’s ice and recent pressure ridges were infrequent. We reached Henson’s igloo where his record told what a hard march they had and how tired they were, etc., etc. The sun, now continuously above the horizon, shone for a bit as we camped. ”

“ The strength of the hull must be such that it will resist the terrific pressure of the ice-floes, and keep its shape intact until the lifting of the ship bodily releases the pressure; such that if supported at each end only, or in the middle only, or thrown up on the ice and resting upon her bilge, during the paroxysms of the floes, she will not be strained or injured; and such that she can ram the ice by the hour when necessary, without injury to seams or fastenings.
It is a popular fallacy that steel is a suitable material for the construction of an Arctic ship. ”

“ On each side of our trail was a nearly continuous deep blue lake, into the outer side of which flowed at short intervals, streams and from the inner edge of which at every available spot streams had bored a way through to the tide crack into which they poured with a rush.
After leaving the cache we travelled for four hours more. The snow was nearly all gone from the ice here now, and two or three days more of warm weather would remove it entirely. The effect of the fall in temperature was very perceptible in the lowering of the water level in all the smaller pools. ”

“ I had no fears that the Roosevelt would be crushed by any onset of the ice, but I did apprehend that she might be forced bodily up on to the ice-foot, thrown on her beam ends and pushed so far inshore that it would be impossible to float her another season. Another possibility was that a particularly violent gale, such as might occur at any time, would tear us from our moorings and carry us out into the moving pack, in which event there would not be one chance in a hundred of our being able to get the ship back to her present position again. ”

“ In a country where men, women and children exist in complete isolation, where vegetation, mineral matter and even so common a thing as salt are unknown—the people’s capacity for imitation would ordinarily be wholly a matter of conjecture; but when brought in contact with my expedition the Eskimos have shown wonderful characteristics of Oriental imitation and adaptation. If given a gun, a hatchet, or a knife as a model they will reproduce these in miniature, in walrus ivory, with a faithfulness and accuracy that seems almost startling in view of their tools and previous lack of training. ”

“ We continued drying our clothing in the sun and doing odd jobs to pass away time and keep from thinking. It was wearing to be held from one’s work and object so many days, and yet there were many chances yet. It was still early in the season, dogs and men were in good condition, and I could not help believing that once across this lead (the “Hudson River?”) which is undoubtedly the tidal crack between the land ice of Lincoln Sea and the central polar pack, we should have good going and little interruption from water. ”

“ The 12th was a clear day but the sea heaving into the narrow and tortuous entrance to the harbour, made it inexpedient to attempt to go out. On the 13th another southeaster set in with driving snow but the sea was down for a few hours and advantage was taken of this to steam round into Assizes Harbour, which affords good shelter. The entire time of our stay in Battle Harbour was a period of continuous anxiety and efforts to keep the ship from being driven ashore by the violent undertow which makes this harbour the worst on the Labrador coast when any sea is running. ”

“ From the summit 2,000 feet above the sea-level and of a more truly Alpine character than any that I have seen in northern Greenland, or Grant Land, the view was more than interesting. East lay the wide white zone of the ice-foot; west the unbroken surface of Nansen’s Strait, and beyond it the northern part of that western land which I saw from the heights of the Ellesmere Land ice-cap in July, 1898, and named Jesup Land, though Sverdrup has later given it the name of Heiberger Land. South, over and beyond some intervening mountains and valleys, lay the southern reaches of Nansen’s Strait. ”

“ On the 9th, our large winter lamps were put in commission for the first time. On the 13th, I snowshoed to the summit of Black Cape and saw the sun for the last time, peering for a moment through the misty ice-filled opening of Robeson Channel to the south. From Cape Sheridan, past Rawson, and on down past Cape Union there was plenty of open water and across the mouth of the channel to Repulse Harbour there was nothing but light trash ice. ”