Snake River

“ The valley through which Snake River flows is very wide, elevated from one to three hundred feet above the stream, and bounded on the North and South by parallel ranges of high Mountains. Its surface is broken and cut by deep ravines. It is very sandy and barren, producing nothing but wild sage and a few scattering blades of short grass. In traveling through this valley it is necessary to obtain some directions from those who are acquainted with the way, since grass is seldom found, except on the small streams. ”

“ Arrived at the crossing of the Snake River, Mrs. Whitman and Mrs. Spalding were treated to a new mode of ferriage, which even in their varied experience they had never before met with. This new ferry was nothing more or less than a raft made of bundles of bulrushes woven together by grass ropes. Upon this frail flat-boat the passengers were obliged to stretch themselves at length while an Indian swam across and drew it after him by a rope. As the waters of the Snake River are rapid and often "dancing mad," it is easy to conjecture that the ladies were ill at ease on their bulrush ferry. ”

“ They had intended to proceed up the banks of Gun Creek, a stream which flows into Snake River from the west; but were assured by the natives that the route in that direction was impracticable. The latter advised them to keep along Snake River, where they would not be impeded by the snow. ”

“ Snake River, for a fish so inclined to start at the mouth of the Columbia, travel up that great river to its principal tributary, the Snake, thence on through the long, tortuous course of that stream, and, under the shadows of the Grand Tétons, enter the cold waters of Pacific Creek, by which it could journey on up to the very crest of the Great Continental Divide to Two-Ocean Pass; through this pass it may have a choice of two routes to Atlantic Creek, in which the down-stream journey is begun. ”

“ Leaving entirely the Snake river, which is said henceforth to pursue its way through canons, amidst rocky and impracticable mountains, where there is no possibility of traveling with animals, we ascended a long and steep hill; and crossing the dividing ridge, came down into the valley of Burnt river, which here looks like a hole among the hills. The average breadth of the stream here is thirty feet; it is well fringed with the usual small timber; and the soil in the bottoms is good, with better grass than we had lately been accustomed to see. ”

“ On the 12th of August the travellers arrived on the banks of Snake River, the scene of so many trials and mishaps to all of the present party excepting Mr. Stuart. They struck the river just above the place where it entered the mountains, through which Messrs. Stuart and Crooks had vainly endeavored to find a passage. The river was here a rapid stream, four hundred yards in width, with high sandy hanks, and here and there a scanty growth of willow. Up the southern side of the river they now bent their course, intending to visit the caches made by Mr. Hunt at the Caldron Linn. ”

“ In abandoning the river they would have to launch forth upon vast trackless plains, destitute of all means of subsistence, where they might perish of hunger and thirst. A dreary desert of sand and gravel extends from Snake River almost to the Columbia. Here and there is a thin and scanty herbage, insufficient for the pasture of horse or buffalo. Indeed these treeless wastes between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific are even more desolate and barren than the naked, upper prairies on the Atlantic side ”

“ Snake River is an important tributary of the St. Croix. It constitutes an established post of trade, for which licences are granted by the Indian department. Its Indian population is reported at three hundred and one souls. Persons of the mixed cast, thirty-eight. This river is connected, by an easy portage, with Rum River, a route much used by Indians going to the133 Mille Lac and Sandy Lake borders. Masses of native copper have been brought out of its bed by the Indians, who report the existence of further indications of its presence. ”

“ In this emergency, he cut up the stem of his pipe into fine shavings, which he mixed with certain herbs, and thus manufactured a temporary succedaneum to enable him to accompany his long colloquies and harangues with the customary fragrant cloud.
If the scenery of the Way-lee-way had charmed the travellers with its mingled amenity and grandeur, that which broke upon them on once more reaching Snake River, filled them with admiration and astonishment. At times, the river was overhung by dark and stupendous rocks, rising like gigantic walls and battlements ”

“ The Indians sometimes counterfeit their howling, in order to take travellers unawares; but otherwise, however startling, there seemed to be little real danger about it, as they seldom or never attack a man.
We crossed Snake River on a rude ferry-boat, stage and all, and found it to be there some two or three hundred yards wide, by perhaps forty feet deep. Its banks were abrupt—its water of the same pea-green, as that at Niagara. It was skirted by narrow bottoms on either side, and then came precipitous basaltic walls, hundreds of feet high to the plateau above. ”

“ The only river in the district is the Snake River, which winds its way to the Pacific through a cañon seven hundred feet deep, and which is joined, through underground courses, by the few streams that flow on to the basalt from the neighbouring mountains, and soon sink beneath the surface. ”

“ To any one who merely contemplates a map of the country this difficulty of getting from Godin to Malade River will appear inexplicable, as the intervening mountains terminate in the great Snake River plain, so that, apparently, it would be perfectly easy to proceed round their bases.
Here, however, occur some of the striking phenomena of this wild and sublime region. The great lower plain which extends to the feet of these mountains is broken up near their bases into crests, and ridges resembling the surges of the ocean breaking on a rocky shore. ”

“ The beautiful creek that now furnishes the water for several thousand acres of the great Clarkston project, a stream of much picturesque beauty as it makes its way, swiftly indeed, but with apparent serenity and general decorum through the lower end of the town into Snake River, has taken the liberty on several occasions to gather up reinforcements from the plains through which its tributaries have worn their way, and has come sweeping down the steep declivities in torrents that threatened to tear out everything in its course. ”

“ The grass became less abundant, and as we advanced, a great portion of the country became quite barren. At one hundred miles from the Hot Pools, we came to and crossed the Raft River, which empties into Snake River, twenty three miles below the American Falls. Thence we crossed the main range of mountains, South of the Valley of Snake River, through a large, deep gap, and at thirty miles came to the river, five miles below the junction of the Portneiff ”

“ Sulphur Creek stole the lake from the Snake River and used it to create the Yellowstone River, which in turn created the wonderful canyon. Here at last is a [Pg 223] crime in which all will agree that the end justified the means.
How this piracy was accomplished is written on the rocks; even the former lake outlet into the Snake River is plainly discernible to-day. ”

“ The river is floated in the park from 1,000 feet below Jackson Lake Dam to Moose, a distance of about 25 miles. Do not attempt the river on your own below Pacific Creek (see map) unless you are familiar with 87 your craft—kayaks, inflatables, and canoes are best—and experienced on rivers of similar difficulty and similar hazards. People too often underestimate the power of the Snake. Write the park address for information about hazards, regulations, equipment, and travel times in floating the Snake River in the park. Motorized craft are not permitted on the Snake River. ”

“ The establishment on Snake river, which became known as Fort Henry, and which consisted of some two or three huts, was situated in a small valley of about twenty acres. When the first settlers arrived in this section during the early sixties this valley was still covered with a growth of large cottonwood trees, the only timber in that section of the country. It is now an alfalfa field, and, doubtless the site of the first house in all the territory drained by the Snake river and the second to be erected in the state of Idaho. ”

“ A branch line runs from here to Rexburg and St. Anthony, where, by the construction of ditches and canals for irrigating purposes, the waters of the Snake river are utilized. If my readers have followed me, they will find this river in evidence in three different States, Idaho, Oregon and Washington, where it connects with the Columbia at Pasco. And in many sections, by the aid of irrigation, it has made the sage brush desert change to productive farms, thriving villages and populous towns. ”

“ Two days more brought them to a stream "running due north which they concluded to be one of the upper branches of Snake River/' 8 This stream they descended about a hundred miles. 6 Abandon- ing the river, they struck northeast across the Teton range, forded several streams, including the left fork of the Snake, and, bending their course constantly to the east and southeast, finally, on October 11, found themselves "encamped on a small stream near the foot of Spanish river mountain." ”

“ The Snake River cutthroat trout indeed delights the angler, but more important is its role in the wildlife community. The cutthroat consumes aquatic insects, invertebrates, and small fish, helping to keep these populations in check naturally. This trout is also consumed, providing food for bears, eagles, ospreys, and otters. If the fish population declines, so will the animals that depend on it for food. As fishing pressure continues to grow, park managers may have to protect this natural population of Snake River cutthroat to maintain the national park’s wildlife community. ”

“ The fact that the Snake river valley is so readily accessible from Yellowstone lake, gives me hope to-night that Mr. Everts may have made his way out of the forest to some settlement in the Snake river valley.
There is still four or five inches of snow on the ground, but there is plenty of long grass under it, and our horses are faring tolerably well, and will soon fill themselves with either grass or snow. There is no clear space large enough for us to pitch our tent. ”

“ Upon the banks of Snake River, when it does not overflow, there is a lengthy, narrow strip of good soil, varying from a quarter of a mile to ten rods wide, and in some places not six inches wide. It is a sterile, barren, desert country, filled with belts of rock and sand. As we passed over some portions of Shanghi Plain, the brethren undertook to remove the stones, so that we might drive our waggons with a little more ease to ourselves and less danger to our vehicles. ”

“ Years ago thousands of swallows nested on this cliff, but blasting for an irrigation tunnel killed many and frightened the rest away. Beyond the cliff is the river; a jetty serves to deepen the channel for navigation by divert- ing the main stream from behind an island. The route runs through an almost continuous succession of orchards and vineyards, down a steep grade, and through a rocky cut. Far below the Snake River swirls around the base of basaltic canyon walls and shifting sand bars. At 5.9 m. is a junction with an improved road ”

“ Warren here came out as an invaluable member of the party. He kept the camp full of trout and we fared sumptuously. The stream from Shoshone Lake is the true Snake River and not the one we are on. It is twice as large as this one, and should be mapped as the main stream.
From this point we feel sure of plenty of water and will start with a partial load in the boat. The strain on the animals has been terrible as they have had to double trip the route almost constantly, which means three times the distance of actual progress. ”

“ Many of the tributary streams of Snake River, rival it in the wildness and picturesqueness of their scenery. That called the Bruneau; is particularly cited. It runs through a tremendous chasm, rather than a valley, extending upwards of a hundred and fifty miles. You come upon it on a sudden, in traversing a level plain. It seems as if you could throw a stone across from cliff to cliff ”

“ August 14.—This morning, three miles over a very rough, hilly road, brought us to Snake river, where we see it the last time on our route. Here we left it again and traveled five miles over a ridge and down a ravine to Burnt river. This is a small stream, being about one rod wide and about three inches deep. The water is good and cool, the banks are lined with low brush; here the mountains are very high. This evening we traveled up this stream, which is in a deep gorge, through which the stream runs with rapid fall. ”

“ The only means of access to and from the Swauk mining area was through this valley, and due to their strategic position, the Indians and their white leader exacted a heavy toll from gold-seekers, cattlemen, and farmers. Wilson was drowned in the Snake River in 1869 while trying to escape with stolen horses. At 0.7 m., US 97 enters a narrow gorge. Massive rock formations rise to form the opposite canyon walls (L) , while the river foams and dashes in its rough bed several hundred feet below. Impressive views present themselves from time to time as the highway winds past natural vantage points. ”