Ketchup

“ The making of tomato ketchup consists essentially in reducing tomatoes to pulp, removing the skins, seeds, hard parts, and stems, adding salt, sugar, condiments, and vinegar to suit the taste, and cooking to a proper consistency. The methods and practices of the various manufacturers differ, and the difference between the best and the poorest procedure corresponds to that between the best and the worst ketchup. No single factory has all of the best methods at every step of manufacture. ”

“ Ketchup is a sauce made variously from tomatoes, mushrooms, walnuts, oysters, etc. It should be semi-fluid, about the consistency of a good purée and, although spices may be added, the original flavor of the basic ingredients must always be preserved. Color is one desideratum. In tomato ketchup the sauce is always made of the ripe tomato fruit, although, as the color is sometimes produced artificially, the only safeguard lies in purchasing of reliable manufacturers. The tomato ketchup is a typical American sauce, corre [Pg 34] sponding in our dietary with the mushroom ketchup of the English. ”

“ Filling at a low temperature and corking while cool allows sufficient air to remain incorporated in the ketchup and neck of the bottle to permit a considerable growth of the organisms and a product derived from good stock may thus acquire the appearance of ketchup derived from partially decayed material. A ketchup in which bubbles of air are incorporated in filling may show a growth of mold at each bubble throughout the mass. The foregoing statements apply to ketchup containing sodium benzoate as well as to the non-preservative goods of the character used in these experiments. ”

“ Darwin observes, that all the mushrooms which are cooked at our tables, as well as the ketchup made by preserving their juices in salt and water, possess an animal flavour. In proof of this, the following circumstance may be adduced, which occurred in a family of invalids, who frequently wanted weak broth: the sagacious cook-maid repeatedly deceived them, by administering a mixture of thin gruel with a small quantity of good ketchup, adding only a little salt, and a few shred-leaves of parsley.
Fish-broth, though nourishing, is by no means equal to that made of wholesome butcher's meat. ”

“ Ketchup is defined in the Federal food standards as the clean, sound product made from properly prepared pulp of clean, sound, fresh, ripe tomatoes, with spices, and with or without sugar and vinegar.
The solid matter, or total solids, in ketchup varies from less than 12 per cent to over 37 per cent. This means that the product varies from a substance having barely sufficient tomato added to give color and taste, to a rich, heavy tomato ketchup. The variation of total solids in any one brand is, of course, less, but large differences are not unusual. ”

“ Spores which fall into the bottle from the air might be unable to germinate upon such a medium, while those already present would.
CHARACTERISTICS OF COMMERCIAL KETCHUP. While tomato ketchup is a complex and variable product, its general composition may be determined with a fair degree of accuracy. Inspection will give a good idea of color, consistency, smoothness of body, fineness of finish, tendency to separate, presence of objectionable particles, and evidence of gross fermentation. ”

“ On this year’s ketchup the labels make fewer claims, generally merely stating that it is “tomato ketchup,” which is true whether made from whole tomatoes or refuse. The brand is in most cases the guaranty for good quality. It is not safe to judge the quality by the price, for, though usually good quality can not be expected unless the higher price is paid, some of the high-priced ketchup when placed under the microscope has proven to be a very inferior product. ”

“ INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, 2 large onions, 6 cloves, 1 small teaspoonful of chopped lemon-peel, a few forcemeat balls, thickening of butter and flour, 1 large tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.
Mode.—Cut the rabbit into small joints; put them into a stewpan, add the onions sliced, the cloves, and minced lemon-peel. Pour in sufficient water to cover the meat, and, when the rabbit is nearly done, drop in a few forcemeat balls, to which has been added the liver, finely chopped. Thicken the gravy with flour and butter, put in the ketchup, give one boil, and serve. ”

“ Tests show that neither part has any true jellying powers, but that the part from the seed cells gives the quality of smoothness, the holding together of the particles of solids. Neither gives a first class pulp alone.
COLOR. Home-made ketchup generally has a rather dark reddish or brownish color, due to prolonged heating, made necessary under kitchen conditions. At one time this was thought desirable and some of the older recipes call for the use of caramel in order to imitate this color. Most manufacturers now aim to secure a clean, clear color, preferably bright red. ”

“ If you love good ketchup, gentle reader, make it yourself, after the following directions, and you will have a delicious relish for made dishes, ragouts, soup, sauces, or hashes. Mushroom gravy approaches the nature and flavor of made gravy, more than any vegetable juice, and is the superlative substitute for it; in meagre soups and extempore gravies, the chemistry of the kitchen has yet contrived to agreeably awaken the palate and encourage the appetite. ”

“ It is a risky procedure for mild or thin ketchup. It is a common occurrence to have the stock keep apparently while in the bottle, but spoil shortly after opening. The spoilage after opening is most often due to forms which have been present since manufacture and only need the presence of air to start growth, and are not due to infection from the air. A ketchup will inhibit the growth of organisms which gain entrance from without, while those which are present but held in abeyance through exclusion of air, will sometimes grow. ”

“ The acidity is one of the most important factors in preventing the growth of bacteria and yeasts in the ketchup after being opened. In order to secure the best results the ketchup should have an acidity of over 1 per cent (expressed as acetic acid) and an acidity of 1.25 per cent or higher adds to the keeping quality of the ketchup after the bottle is opened. An increase in acidity will necessarily require an increase in the amount of sugar in order to secure the proper flavor; or, vice versa, an increase in the sugar will necessitate an increase in acidity. ”

“ A thin pulp with 10,000,000 bacteria may easily be worse than a heavier one with 30,000,000 or 40,000,000, if judged by numbers alone. The same conclusion is necessarily true for ketchup. It clearly refutes the argument that a product having twice as many bacteria as another of the same kind is more than twice as bad. The effect of recommending an arbitrary low limit for bacterial content, irrespective of the consistency of the product, is to cause manufacturers to pack thin pulp and sloppy ketchup, and to discourage the more desirable heavy body. ”

“ Oyster Ketchup:—Beard the oysters; boil them up in their liquor; strain, and pound them in a mortar; boil the beards in spring water, and strain it to the first oyster liquor; boil the pounded oysters in the mixed liquors, with beaten mace and pepper. Some add a very little mushroom ketchup, vinegar, or lemon-juice; but the less the natural flavor is overpowered the better; only spice is necessary for its preservation. This oyster ketchup will [pg 121] keep perfectly good longer than oysters are ever out of season. ”

“ The oil extracts have been advocated for use in ketchup instead of the whole spices, but in quantities which would be useful antiseptically their use would be objectionable, for when present in approximately the same proportions as are the whole-spice infusions, the flavor is too strong and masks the more delicate flavor of the tomato. The acetic-acid extracts are more effective than are the water infusions, and they are not objectionable in the ketchup. ”

“ This line of experiments gives promise of practical results in producing a ketchup which will not only keep while in the bottle, but will also keep longer after it is opened. Each manufacturer must work out the quantities that could be used with his formula and still retain the character of his goods. ”

“ Of the 77 bottles of ketchup from which the inoculations were made, 41 were without and 36 with preservative, and of the 17 sterile ketchups, 8 contained sodium benzoate and 9 were without preservative.
A considerable part of the experimental ketchup proved not to be sterile. The organisms present were of the class which require oxygen for their growth and therefore they had only been arrested in their activity. No growth could take place so long as [22] the air was excluded and therefore no spoilage could occur. ”

“ Chili sauce is of the same general character as ketchup but is made from peeled and cored tomatoes without removing the seeds, contains more sugar and onions and sometimes is made hotter than ketchup by the use of more cayenne pepper. There is a great variation among different manufacturers with respect to the methods of treating the tomatoes. Usually large to medium sized tomatoes are employed, separated from the small tomatoes which are used for making pulp and ketchup. ”

“ Pour on them a good gravy, seasoned with salt, pepper, allspice, and either mushrooms or mushroom ketchup, adding truffles and morels, if approved. Strain, and thicken with butter and a little flour.
SWEETBREADS ROASTED. Parboil two large ones; when cold, lard them with bacon, and roast them in a Dutch oven. For sauce, plain butter and mushroom ketchup.
SWEETMEATS. Preserves or sweetmeats should be carefully kept from the air, and set in a very dry place. If they have only a small proportion of sugar, a warm situation would not injure them ”

“ As a result, it is not uncommon to see an inch or more of pulp in the bottom of a car at the end of shipment, caused by the blowing out of the barrel heads from fermentation. The sanitary condition of the factory may be poor, the handling of the goods be unclean, the spices be the refuse from the spice houses, the sugar be of the cheapest grade, and the bottles be only rinsed or be used without even that precaution. The ketchup is a concoction so heavily spiced with hot spices that the tomato flavor is lost and might as well be anything else. ”

“ It can be flavoured with a small quantity of savoury herbs, pepper, and salt, as well as a little mushroom ketchup. It can be coloured with a few drops of Parisian essence, or burnt sugar. Its consistency can be improved by the addition of a small quantity of corn-flour. Sufficient corn-flour must be added not to make it thick but like very thin gum. In a broader sense, the water in which rice, lentils, beans and potatoes have been boiled may be called stock. Again, the water in which macaroni, vermicelli, sparghetti, and all kinds of Italian paste has been boiled, may be called stock. ”

“ Ketchup is made in the home with very simple apparatus; a colander or sieve for breaking and straining the pulp, and a copper, porcelain, or earthen kettle for cooking, being all that is necessary. The cooking of the tomatoes with the spices, sugar, vinegar, etc., is generally done slowly, until a heavy body is obtained, which results in a dark color, but insures sterility of the product when it goes into the container, and also contributes to keeping quality after it is opened. ”

“ Method.—Slice the meat rather thinly, putting all the jelly into the stock or water, and rejecting the fat. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the vegetables slightly, sprinkle in the flour, and cook gently. When well browned put in the stock or water, stir until boiling, simmer gently until the vegetables are tender, and add the meat. Season to taste, add ketchup or other sauce, make thoroughly hot, and serve. ”

“ A sauce which is used in large quantities in the United States and in other countries is known as tomato ketchup and is manufactured in many parts of the country. Tomato ketchup is the pulp of sound, ripe tomatoes mixed with various condimental substances and flavoring matters to make it palatable and desirable as a sauce. ”

“ Good ketchup made from whole tomatoes has a clean appearance readily distinguishable under the microscope; but the poor ketchup has usually a superabundance of fungi present, fully developed colonies of mold, many forms of conidia, besides yeast-like cells, and different forms of bacteria. All of these may be dead, but neither preservatives nor dosage of odorous spices can disguise their presence. ”

“ One pound cooked fish, one tablespoon each of mushroom ketchup, essence of anchovy, Harvey's sauce and mustard, one ounce of butter, rolled flour and one half a pint of cream, a wall of potatoes. Divide the fish into flakes, place it with cream and butter into a stew pan, until very hot. Mash the potatoes, and add to them one tablespoon cream, one yolk of egg, pepper and salt; well butter a wall mould and sprinkle with browned bread crumbs, and place it in the oven till hot, turn it out on a silver dish and pour the ragoût in the centre. Garnish with lemon and parsley. ”

“ A little caramel, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1⁄4 pint cream, 1⁄2 glass brandy or sherry, stir in a jug till it thickens; put on ice to cool.
Quin Sauce.—2 gal. each mushroom ketchup and walnut ketchup, 1 gal. soy, 1 lb. garlic, 6 lb. sprats; boil 1⁄4 hour; strain; bottle.
Raspberry Sauce.—Put into a stewpan 4 well-beaten eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls flour, 1 pint fresh raspberry juice, and 1⁄4 lb. sugar; whisk this over the fire till it thickens and rises well; serve while it is light and frothy. Other similar fruit may be used in the same way. If red currants be chosen more sugar will be required. ”

“ A pint of new milk, the yolk of two eggs, well beaten, two ounces of butter, well mixed with flour; mix it all together in a saucepan, and, when it boils, add two spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup; it must be stirred all the time, or it will not do. If used for cold veal or lamb, the meat must be cut as thin as possible, the sauce made first to boil, and then the meat put into it, till it is hot enough for table. ”