Budmouth

“ We cross the stream and begin a very long climb. This hill has a bad reputation; but its steepest gradient—one in six—is quickly past, and above it there is nothing very serious. After three miles of climbing we find some fine wide views; and as we drive between the high hedges on the rough road to Bude, catch glimpses of sea and headland on the left.
The charm of Bude, I imagine—and many people find it very charming—lies more in its surroundings than itself, more in the splendid coast and rolling sea than in the rather dull little town. ”

“ After a little consultation, Budd and one of the fishing-party boarded the craft, and carrying the man into the cabin and laying him in a berth, they put the boat before the wind and followed the Sea Witch up the bay to Wickford, where the unfortunate man belonged.
He was then taken to his home and a doctor summoned, who pronounced the man alive, and under skillfully-applied restoratives he soon began to recover. Budd waited just long enough to know the man was out of danger; then he joined Judd at the wharf, and together they sailed off to their island home. ”

“ There can be little question but that, of all the west country which lies aloof from the moor, this south-east corner of Devon, watered mainly by the Otter and familiar to many strangers who visit the watering-places of Seaton, Sidmouth, or Budleigh, is the most beautiful in general landscape. The contour of the hills is more varied and effective, nor have they been denuded of timber about their more conspicuous portions as in most other parts of the county. ”

“ At the end of the sixteenth century, the first Buddenbrook of whom they had knowledge lived in Parchim, and his son had been a Senator of Grabau. Another Buddenbrook, a tailor by trade, and “very well-to-do” (this was underlined) had married in Rostock and begotten an extraordinary number of children, who lived or died, as the case might be. And again, another, this time a Johann, had lived in Rostock as a merchant, from whom the Consul’s grandfather had descended, who had left Rostock to settle himself in this very town, and was the founder of the present grain business. ”

“ So little is it that we really know what we shall do from hour to hour.
Half the distance between the two islands had been accomplished, and Budd had a clear, uninterrupted view down between Prudence and Conanicut Islands into the east bay. His first glance in that direction filled him with sheer amazement, for just emerging from the east passage, and coming directly toward him, was a sloop, and even at that distance he had no difficulty in recognizing her as the Sea Witch. He could see but two persons upon her, and yet there might be more in the cabin. ”

“ The Indian spoke slowly: "It is far off. There is no colour yet in the leaf of the larch. The river-hen still swims northward. It is good that we go. There is much buffalo in the White Valley."
Again Trafford looked towards his follower, and again the half-breed, as if he were making an effort to remember, sang abstractedly:
"They follow, they follow a lonely trail, by day, by night,
By distant sun, and by fire-fly pale, and northern light.
The ride to the Hills of the Mighty Men, so swift they go!
Where buffalo feed in the wilding glen in sun and snow." ”

“ Judd threw the man a rope, and the sloop was refastened to the wharf.
"Are you Boyd & Floyd of Fox Island?" the stranger asked.
"Yes, sir," replied the lads.
"And you sometimes take out sailing-parties, do you not?" was the next inquiry; and again the young partners responded in the affirmative.
"I am Mr. Dane," continued the gentleman, "and am over here with a party of friends, and we wish you to take us across the bay to Bristol to-morrow. Can you do it?"
"Do you wish to be simply taken over, or over and back?" asked Budd, as spokesman for the firm. ”

“ The north light of Block Island was passed on the left, and along the west shore of that gem of the sea the boat sped. At the southern end the sloop was turned to the east, and it was evident that Budd was going to run around the island. It was now after twelve o'clock, and Judd asked:
"Shall you land for dinner, Budd, or shall I get it ready in the cabin?"
"We are not going to land anywhere until we touch our own dock," said Budd, in high glee. "I came out for a sail, and I'm going to have it. You can get dinner ready when you like." ”

“ The village of Budby, beyond the confines of Thoresby Park, is one of the most placid and sleepy places I know. The stuccoed houses are perhaps devoid of picturesqueness, but the shallow Meden, which runs quietly beside the roadway, is crystal-clear, and from the wilderness on the farther bank one often sees pert black water hens slip gently from the shelter of the long grass, and glide to and fro like tiny boats. ”

“ People knew and greeted the young daughter of Consul Buddenbrook as she came out of the garden gate and up the chestnut-bordered avenue. Perhaps an old market-woman, driving her little cart in from the village, would nod her head in its big flat straw hat with its light-green ribbons, and call out “Mornin’, little missy!” Or Matthiesen the porter, in his wide knee-breeches, white hose, and buckled shoes, would respectfully take off his hat as she passed.
Tony always waited for her neighbour, little Julie Hagenström; the two children went to school together. ”

“ We read in the memoir of Tennyson that in the year 1848 he felt a craving to make a lonely sojourn at Bude. "I hear," he said, "that there are larger waves there than on any other part of the British coast, and must go thither and be alone with God." So he came, with the subject of his Idylls simmering in his mind. He found the great rollers, the grand, open coast, the solitude; these are still there, to be found of all that seek. There may be some lessening of the solitude, but only in parts; Bude has not yet become widely popular; it is the haunt of those who love bracing air and quiet. ”

“ Boyd could make any reply there came a sharp cry from Budd, who was still on the bow of the sloop.
"Quick, Judd, or our trap will be destroyed! There is a porpoise in it, and he has already noticed our approach."
"We can't save the net!" exclaimed Judd, springing to his feet, and looking at the huge cetacean that had raised his head above the surface of the water, and within the inclosure of the seine. "He will go through it like a shot! Our only hope is to save the fish!"
"Perhaps I can get him," cried Budd, running aft and drawing the yawl close up to the sloop. ”

“ The town principally consists of one long street, running nearly a mile from east to west; the houses in general, are low, decayed, and irregular; but much improvement has been made within the last 20 years. Some centuries ago, Bodmin appears to have been of 124much greater extent, and more populous, than at present: it was probably largest, and contained the greatest number of inhabitants, about the fourteenth century. It is now smaller than either Helston, Liskeard, Megavissey, and Penryn; and considerably smaller than St. Austell, Truro, Redruth, Penzance, or Falmouth ”

“ Hanno Buddenbrook had seen the little count once or twice, even before they met at school, when he took his walks with Ida northward from the Castle Gate. Some distance outside the town, nearly as far as the first outlying village, lay a small farm, a tiny, almost valueless property without even a name. The passer-by got the impression of a dunghill, a quantity of chickens, a dog-hut, and a wretched, kennel-like building with a sloping red roof. This was the manor-house, and therein dwelt Kai’s father, Count Eberhard Mölln. ”

“ Boyd. "Perhaps, if he came right off the beach now, and before the gale comes on, he could save himself and the boat, too."
"Little will he care for our warning," replied Judd; "but then we can give it, all the same. Go forward, Budd, and shout to him;" and he put up the helm and ran the sloop in as near the beach as he felt it was safe to go.
"Mr. Benton," shouted Budd, "your boat will soon pound to pieces there; and if you delay long about putting off shore there will be great risk about your getting into your cove. The wind is increasing every minute, and will soon blow a gale." ”

“ Budd gave him directions how to find the leading hotel, and then cast off the fastenings of the sloop and sped away for the island.
Promptly at one o'clock he was at the village, and as he took Mr. Wilson on board he asked if he should run down and take the gentleman's skiff in tow; for, expecting to do this, he had left his own yawl with Judd.
"No, never mind that; it isn't worth taking with us," replied Mr. Wilson. ”

“ They were still discussing the plans they hoped to realize when they reached the island. Mr. Boyd was at the wharf, and immediately opened the letter Budd gave him.
"Hold on!" he a moment later cried out, as Budd was about to take the sloop to her anchorage. "This letter has laid in the office ever since yesterday noon. Mr. Johnson simply says he is coming down to-night to remain over Sunday with us, and wants you to meet him at the six o'clock train. One of you will have to go back to the village after him."
"We will both go," replied Judd; "there is nothing else to do." ”

“ Returning to the island for their other fish and the clams, the lads' plans for the day were speedily arranged. Budd was to take the yawl and a minor part of the stock in trade, and landing at "The Hummocks," was to secure, if possible, a horse and wagon of the nearest farmer, and peddle through the manufacturing villages in the western part of the county, while Judd was to take the larger part of the stock into the sloop and go up to the large town, a mile and a half up the bay. Each lad had provided himself with a note-book to take orders for their Friday trade ”

“ We were attracted, in the first instance, this morning, to Saint Budeaux, across the river from Saltash; but its singularity of nomenclature proved to be its only striking feature. The place is now becoming a Plymouth suburb, of healthy condition and prosaic appearance, encircled by military roads and forts, with scarps and counterscarps, ravelins and guns, and ↑ War Office marks everywhere. Sir Francis Drake was married in its church, and that, I think, is Saint Budeaux’s only noteworthy incident. ”

“ It grows, but grows slowly; old friends may return to it without being tortured by too glaring a change.
The coast must indeed be destitute of harbours that can call Bude a haven; yet the name Bude Haven stands, as if in deadly irony. This whole north coast of Cornwall and Devon has little enough of refuge for seamen in distress; and if they endeavour to make Bude when seas are running high they are simply courting disaster; it were better to stay far out, if the cruel Atlantic will let them. Yet a rumour of history says that [Pg 355] Agricola landed here. ”

“ As though stricken with panic, and bent on suicide, the cetacean fled onward until opposite the huge cliff on the west shore of the bay known as Thurston's Rocks, and then it turned and ran directly inshore.
"It is sure death to go in there," muttered Budd at this movement of his steed, "and I don't propose to go on to that cliff with you."
With knife raised he waited until the porpoise was within a few rods of the shore; then with a quick stroke he severed the rope, and dropping the knife, seized his oars. ”

“ The lads were up early, and found the day was promising to be all that they could ask. The preparations were rapidly made, therefore, and at nine o'clock all necessary provisions had been stowed on board the sloop and they were ready to embark.
"Here, Budd; we are to go where you take a notion to go, so you can take the helm," cried out Judd, hurrying to cast off the sloop's fastenings and to hoist her jib and sail.
Budd took the assigned place, and turned the bow of the Sea Witch down the bay. The wind was from the northwest, and they went along at a good rate of speed. ”

“ Still nearer, at your feet and before you, are the pleasant bays of Plymouth, Kingston, and Duxbury, enlivened by passing boats, and sheltered by the beach from a raging ocean, crowned at its southern extremity by a light-house, and with the extending arm of Saquish enclosing the Island of the Pilgrims; turning your eyes to the south, they fall in succession on the promontory of Manomet ”

“ Even where there is a beach beneath these rugged cliffs, it is usually difficult to reach; in many parts the breakers dash full against the granite preci [Pg 380] pices, and there are often outlying reefs of cruel jagged crag. Noting the deadly features of the coast, we can understand how even Bude attained its name of Haven, however bitterly ironic that name may often have sounded. But it is a grand coast and mainland confronting the wild, unresting sea, and the traditional atmosphere of the district is wholly in keeping with its physical features. ”

“ Last night I had thought with disfavour of Red Ringan the buccaneer; that morning I thought only of Ninian Campbell, with whom I had forgathered on a Glasgow landing.
My own thoughts kept me silent, and the Indian never opened his mouth. Like a statue he crouched by the tiller, with his sombre eyes looking to the sea. That night, when we had rounded Cape Henry in fine weather, we ran the sloop into a little bay below a headland, and made camp for the night beside a stream of cold water. Next morning it blew hard from the north, and in a driving rain we crept down the Carolina coast. ”

“ On the return, late in the afternoon, and just as the sloop passed Dutch Island, Budd called his chum's attention to another sloop just ahead of them that had suddenly luffed up into the wind and nearly capsized. A moment later she fell off before the wind, her sail flapped loosely at the mast, and then it was seen that the man at the tiller had disappeared.
"Has the man fallen overboard?" was Budd's startling question.
"No," replied Judd, putting up his helm and running down toward the other sloop. "That is Ben Taylor's boat, and he is subject to fits. ”