Connecting rod

“ The second is when the rod is called upon to stand a pull and a push at every revolution. The third takes in the matter of the twisting strain that a rod can manage; but the fourth brings the hardest usage that a connecting rod can be called upon to endure, and that is by making a lever of the rod to get a driving action by prying on a fulcrum in the center. In Fig. 1 is seen a case of this kind taken from a machine in which a disk engine was made use of. ”

“ The axis, M, of the jack, on revolving, carries along a crank, MD, to which is fixed a connecting-rod, A, whose other extremity is attached to the horizontal beam that supports the zincs and counterpoises. If the axle, M, be given a continuous revolution, it will communicate to the rod, A, an upward and downward motion that will be transmitted to the beam and produce an alternate immersion and emersion of the zincs. ”

“ The connecting-rod is forged in a single piece, without straps, gibs, or key, and is mortised through at each end for the reception of the brass boxes, which are curved on their backs, and fit the cheek-pieces, between which they can turn to adjust themselves to the pins, in the plane of the axis of the rod. The adjustment for wear is made by wedge-blocks and set screws, as shown, and they are so constructed that the parts cannot get loose and cause a break-down. ”

“ Angle coupling for shafts at any angle (shown at angle of 90°) consisting of four crank pins sliding and revolving in holes bored in the shaft ends.
Section 17.—CONNECTING RODS AND LINKS. (See also p. 42.)
1999. Spring connecting rod of steel or wood.
2000. Attachment for connecting rod to a pump ram, with provision for taking up the brasses by a long screw.
2001. Connecting rod end, the back brass being set up by a set screw with coned point, which displaces by penetration a number of steel balls or shot.
2002. Solid rod end, with wedge gib and nut adjustment for brasses ”

“ When this rod or shaft has been pushed forward a stage, the lever rises again, until the next notch is reached, when the same thing occurs, and the rod gets a little nearer to the partition, in which, immediately facing the point of the rod, is a circular hole corresponding in circumference to the rod itself, so that ultimately the rod must pass through the hole into a recess between the partition and the end of the box. ”

“ The American fly-caster for trout need not concern himself other than theoretically, as a matter of general angling information, with octagonal, double-built, or steel-centered split-cane rods. Eight-strip rods are commonly produced in this country—at a considerably higher figure than the rod of six strips—but it is generally and wholly agreed among those who know that there is nothing to recommend the octagonal over the hexagonal rod. ”

“ I have several times followed a line of water down to the shore, being rowed out in the bay, and found the water boiling up mixed with land weeds. At such a spot there is no movement of the rod except over the course of the stream. It is almost impossible to describe the sensation caused whilst using the rod; it is sometimes like a current of electricity going through the arms and legs. On raising one foot from the ground the rod descends. The effect produced when walking is that the rod has the appearance of a fishing rod when the fish is hooked,—the rod seems alive. ”

“ I had changed rods and lines to-day, having borrowed one from Rodman—a Montreal rod, larger and stiffer than the other: although heavier, I could cast better with it than with the Irish rod. Unluckily, there were only about seventy yards of line on the reel, and the next fish I hooked proved to be the most furious of all, for he first ran out forty yards of line, and before I could get much of it wound up again, he made another and a longer run, taking out all my line to the end, where it was tied to the reel: of course he broke loose, taking away my fly and two feet of casting-line. ”

“ It is the spring of the rod that conquers him, not the giving and taking of line. If the rod is held firmly, at an angle of forty-five degrees, with the thumb on the spool of the reel, there is no likelihood of a good rod breaking. Line should be given grudgingly, and the fish kept on the surface as much as possible. When exhausted he should be drawn over the landing-net and lifted out quickly, at the same time releasing the thumb from the reel to relieve the strain on the rod. ”

“ As a rule, size 0 gives a more workmanlike finish to the butt and joints of fly and bait rods, while No. 00 is about right to use for winding the tips. In fact, all rods weighing up to 6 oz. may be whipped with No. 00 size.
The Mountings Used on a Bait-Casting Rod Consist of a Reel Seat, Butt Cap, Taper Sleeve, Narrow Agate Guide, Agate Offset Top, One Ring Guide, and a Welted, Shouldered Ferrule (Fig. 9)
In whipping the rod, the so-called invisible knot is used. ”

“ The conductor must be connected with all the large and (120) extensive masses of metal that may be about the building. This connection may be made by wires leading towards the rod, as well as in the direction of the earth contact.
6. The rods must be surmounted by good points, which must not be liable to be fused by the discharges of the electricity.
7. The height of the rods must be in proportion to the size and shape of the buildings; but it is better to erect several short rods than one extraordinarily long one.
8. In making the connection with the earth all sharp curves must be avoided. ”

“ A very good rod can be constructed with ash butt, and lancewood, greenheart, or bethabara upper pieces, and one that will be almost as light as split-bamboo, and certainly more serviceable in the long run. I would also advise flush, non-dowelled joints, and reel-bands instead of a solid reel-seat, the latter being of no advantage and only adding to the weight of the rod; moreover, it is now put on the cheapest rods to make them sell. A plain groove for the reel, with bands, is very much better. ”

“ These must make so good a fit that when slightly lubricated they shall prevent the passage of air between them and yet set up very little friction. If you cannot find a piece of steel rod and brass tubing which fit close enough naturally, the only alternative is to rub down a rod, slightly too big to start with, until it will just move freely in the tube. This is a somewhat tedious business, but emery cloth will do it. The rod should be 3-3/8 inches, the tube 2-1/8 inches, long. I used rod 3/16 inch in diameter; but a smaller rod would do equally well. ”

“ The great defect in most rods is, that the play is in the middle, owing to that part being too weak, and like a waggon whip; with a rod of this kind, it is impossible to strike or command a fish of any size. ”

“ A good method of working the reed is shown in Fig. 149, which is a back view. A is a rocking shaft supported by brackets, as a, on the top rail of the loom; B is a lever projecting towards the front of the loom, and the rod b from it supports one end of the reed; C is another lever on the shaft A, projecting backwards, and the rod D connects it with the tappet treadles, so that when the treadle is pressed down the reed rises; about 3-1/2 in. is the usual height for it to rise. F is the upper rib of the gauze reed, and F1 the lower one. G is the yoke of the reed. ”

“ If the link block does not come opposite the end of the eccentric rod when the reverse lever is in the end notch of the sector, the length of the reverse rod is wrong and should be corrected. If the link block comes right, under the above conditions, for the forward but not for the backward eccentric rod, the notches in the sector are not cut in their proper positions, or the link hanger is not of the proper length. ”

“ A rod is not so apt to break from a fair strain as from a short twist; of course, if you strike a large fish as you raise to cast, or catch in the bushes behind you when your line is extended, any rod may break. This, however, rarely happens, and you are as likely to break the tip by trying to pull the line through the rings with your hand, or by lifting a small trout out of water and swinging it in past you, as in any other way. In drawing a fish to shore when you have no landing net, step back and bring the strain evenly on your rod, and it will rarely give way. ”

“ The double-built rod—a rod in which each triangular strip of cane, as finally ready for completing the rod, is composed of two strips cemented together, superimposed, thus having two thicknesses of the hard outer enamel—is undoubtedly desirable where great strength is imperative, but hardly requisite for the trout fly-rod. ”

“ The rod has a chance to turn about on its center from a ball and socket joint, and engages with both wheels in nicely fitted journals, and boxes set in line with the center of the socket joint, so that when one wheel turns, the rod pries the other around by using the rod as a lever and the ball joint for a fulcrum, giving a uniform leverage all the while, with no dead centers. ”

“ It is important that sharp bends be avoided. A string course, for instance, should be drilled, and the rod or rope passed straight through. Also, that any metal bodies in the line of the conductor should be connected with it by staples screwed into such bodies. It is most necessary that the ends of vane bolts or rods should be joined to the conductor, or, where this is impossible, should be fitted with an independent wire or rod to the earth. ”

“ An unequal or an equal degree of valve lead may be given by suitably altering the length of the eccentric rod, but when the lead is equal for the two ports, its amount must be regulated by moving the position of the eccentric upon the crank shaft. ”

“ An important point is to commence with proper tackle, for it is of no use to attempt to catch trout with a cart-rope tied to a hedge-stake. First, then, with regard to the Rod. A good rod is the angler's chief requisite, and extraordinary progress has been made in the art of manufacturing rods within the last few years. ”

“ To give the utmost satisfaction, the rod should fit its owner, and several rods should be tried until one is found that most fully meets the angler's idea of what a rod should be. If one happens to have a good fly reel, by all means take it along and attach it to the rod while making the tests. It is practically impossible to gauge the balance of a rod without affixing the reel, and many a finely balanced tool will appear badly balanced until the proper-weight reel is affixed to it. ”

“ When the rods have been carefully placed in line, the distance between the end of one rod and the following has to be ascertained, and also, for getting at the actual length of each rod, the difference in the length of the iron and zinc rod in each of the cases. A small space is always left between two rods, which are not made to touch each other, in order to avoid sudden and too sharp contact. ”

“ If, now, we hold the rod vertically, as at C, giving neutrality, and give a few slight blows with a wooden mallet to its upper extremity, we can give just the amount of freedom required for it to produce evident polarity, and we then have equal polarity, no matter which end of the bar is below, the center of its free rotation here being perfect, and the rod perfectly neutral longitudinally when held east and west. ”

“ No practical working rod can be made by the removal of one or more joints and the substitution of others, to increase or diminish in length. There must be a uniform taper consonant with the length, which, in case of alteration, will be destroyed, and the rod rendered harsh or feeble. ”

“ The three distinguishing characteristics of a really good fly rod are strength, elasticity, and lightness, such rods are to be bought in the London tackle shops for a pound; these rods are perfect as three or four piece rods, but I much prefer one for my own use in only two pieces, such a rod is more readily put to, and taken from together than one consisting of three or more joints; not so liable to get out of order, and has a truer bend with it when subjected to pressure. I recommend a rod having a root 9 feet, and a top of 5 feet, making together 14 feet in length, as the most useful ”

“ Where the multiplying reel is placed on top, with the handle to the right, and the thumb used for guiding the line on the spool, there is a constant tendency of the reel to get to the under side, where it properly belongs. To overcome this wabbling of the reel, and to insure more steadiness, the butt of the rod is braced against the stomach by the reel-on-top anglers—certainly a most ungraceful and unbecoming thing to do with a light rod. With the tarpon or tuna rod, and with the reel either on top or underneath, a socket for the rod butt becomes necessary in playing a very heavy fish. ”

“ The spike is very useful for sticking the rod upright in the ground, as occasion may require. Some prefer a two-handed rod for large rivers. I think it is unnecessarily fatiguing to use a two-handed rod, inasmuch as a skilful artist can throw a fly with a single-handed rod as far as is necessary, and I never use any other. The single-handed rod should be about thirteen or fourteen feet long. To prevent the danger of breaking the rod, by the joints separating in throwing the fly, the joints should be whipped with strong silk, as shown in this figure. ”

“ Hang a leather by a silk thread, and bring your rubbed glass tube near it: the feather is attracted, touches the rod, charges itself with the electricity of the rod, and is then repelled. Cause it to retreat from the rod in various directions.
Hang your feather by a common thread: if no insulating substance intervenes between the feather and the earth, you can get no repulsion. Why? you ought to be able to answer. Obviously it is because the charge of positive electricity communicated by the rod is not retained by the feather, but passes away to the earth. ”