Michael Combrune

“ Any fermented liquor, that, in distillation, yields an inflammable spirit miscible with water, may be called wine, whatever vegetable matter it is produced from.—As beer and ales contain a spirit exactly answerable to this definition, brewing may justly be called the art of making wines from corn. Those, indeed, which are the produce of the grape, have a particular claim to the name, either because they are the most ancient and the most universal, or that a great part of their previous preparation is owing to the care of nature itself. ”

“ Bodies, whose particles are removed, by heat, beyond their sphere of attraction, can no more germinate; but, coming in contact with other bodies, as malt with water, they effervesce. The grain we are now speaking of first shews this act of effervescence, when it has been thoroughly impressed with a heat of 120 degrees, and a little before its color, from a white, begins to incline to the yellow. ”

“ It is just as absurd for a brewer to refuse the use of the thermometer, as it would be for an architect to reject the informations of his plummet and rule, and to assert they were unserviceable because the first house, and probably many others, were built without their assistance. ”

“ Why are the brandies of Spain inferior to those prepared in France? The wines of the last country are the growth of a weaker sun; they contain no more oils than can be assimilated by fermentation, and form a clean, dry, nutty spirit. ”

“ A research made for each constituent part forming grapes, as well as the proportion they bear to one another, at first sight, appears to be an eligible method to discover the nature of wines; but in every vegetable their parts are mixed and interwoven, and every degree of heat, acting on them, finds these so blended, as to render their division too imperfect for such enquiry to be made with sufficient accuracy, to deduce therefrom the rules of an art. ”

“ None of the operations, either of nature or art, can be carried on without the action or assistance of air. It is a principal agent in fermentation; and therefore brewers ought to be well acquainted with its principal properties and powers.
By air we mean a fluid, scarcely perceptible to our senses, and discovering itself only by the resistance it makes to bodies. We find it every where incumbent on the surface of the globe, rising to a considerable height, and commonly known by the name of atmosphere. ”

“ The great and fundamental difference among philosophers, in respect to the nature of fire, is, whether it be originally such, formed by the Creator himself, at the beginning of things; or whether it be mechanically producible in bodies, by inducing some alteration in the particles thereof. It is certain that heat may be generated in a body, by attrition; but whether it existed14 there before, or was caused immediately by the motion, is a matter of no great import to the art of brewing; for the effects, with which we are alone concerned, are the same. ”

“ Though transparency in beers is a sure sign of the salts and oils being in an exact proportion, it is in no wise a proof of the justness of taste: for strong salts acting on strong oils may produce pellucidity, but the delicacy and pungency of taste, depend on the finer oils and the choicest salts being wholly preserved, these best admitting of fermentation, and most perfectly becoming miscible with the liquor, the more volatile oils and salts of the grain if excluded, by the malt being too high dried, the consequence in the beer must be, an heavy and rancid taste. ”

“ Common small beer is required to be in order, from one to four weeks, and as it is impossible to prejudge the accidental variations, as to heat and cold, that may happen in any one season of the year, it is rational to act up to what a long experience has shown, is to be expected, and to mix such quantity of cold water with that, which is made to come to ebullition, as to bring the extract to the degree fixed for each particular season, let the heat, at the time of brewing, vary therefrom, in any degree whatever. ”

“ The brewer should carefully avoid purchasing hops that are slack bagged, or kept in a moist place, or malt that has been sprinkled with water soon after it was taken from the kiln. By means of the moisture, an internal agitation is raised in the corn, which agitation, though soon stopped, for want of a sufficient quantity of air, yet, the heat thereby generated remaining, every adventitious seed, fallen from the air, and resting on the corn, begins to grow, and forms a moss, which dies, and leaves a putrid musty taste behind, always prevailing, more or less, in beer made from such grain. ”

“ Wines, therefore, fermented in countries where the autumn is hot, require their oils to be more pinguious, than where the season is cooler. For the same reason beers are best made, when the air is at forty degrees of heat, or below the first fermentable point, because the brewer, in this case, can put his wort to work, at a heat of his own chusing, which will not be increased by that of the air; on the contrary, when, by its internal motion, the heat becomes greater, it will again be abated and regulated by the cold of the medium. ”

“ All vegetable substances possess fermentable principles, though in a diversity of proportions; for those juices only, whose constituent parts approach to the proportion necessary for the act of fermentation, can be made into wines. I would not, however, from what I have attributed to a difference of heat in different climates, be understood, as if I thought that vegetables are more or less acid, more or less sulphureous, or in general more or less fermentable, merely from the heat75 of the country they grow in. ”

“ I HAVE, with pleasure and improvement, read over your manuscript; and should be glad to see some other trades as justly reduced to rules as you have done that of brewing: which would not only be making a right application of philosophical knowledge, but, at the same time, accommodate human life, in many respects, wherein it is still deficient. Perhaps your example may excite some able men, to give us their respective trades, in the form of so many arts. ”

“ Malt, in general, is any sort of grain, first germinated, and then dried, so as to prevent any future vegetation: that generally used, is made of barley, which experience has found to be the fittest for the purpose of brewing.
Medium is that space, through which a body in motion passes: air is the medium through which the bodies near the earth move; water is the medium wherein fish live; glass affords a medium or a free passage to light.—This term is also made use of, to express the mean of two numbers, and sometimes the middle between several quantities. ”

“ It has already been observed, that cellars, in winter, are more hot than the exterior air by 10 degrees, and more cold in summer by 5 degrees. But besides this general difference, repositories of beer vary surprisingly in their temperature; from the nature of the soil in which they are built, from their exposition to the sun, or from other incidental causes. As heat is a very powerful agent in accelerating fermentation, it is by no means surprising, not only that some cellars do ripen drinks much sooner than others, but also that a difference is often perceived in the same cellar. ”

“ The basis of all wines is a sweet: this circumstance for brewing beers agreeable to the palate must always be attended to. Next to this, it is required that the liquor should possess all the strength, it can fittingly be made susceptible of. Pale malt, as it retains the whole virtue of the grain, yields the strongest beers. The finest oils being fittest for fermentation, malt dried by fierce heats, in a great measure loses these, and what remains are not only coarser oils, less miscible with water, but such as bring with them the impressed taste of fire. ”

“ Acids are all those things which taste sour, as vinegar, juice of lemons, spirit of nitre, spirit of salt, the oil and spirit of vitriol, &c. and are put in a violent agitation, by being mixed with certain earths, or the ashes of vegetables. An acid enters, more or less, into the composition of all plants, and is produced by, or rather is the last effect of, fermentation. Mixed in a due proportion with an alkali, it constitutes a neutral salt, that is, a salt wherein neither the acid nor alkali prevail. Acids are frequently termed acid salts, though generally they appear under a fluid form. ”

“ A small quantity of malt, at all times, but especially when brewed in large vessels, parts too readily with the heat which extraction requires; and, on the contrary, if the quantity of malt be very great, the heat may not be uniformly spread. A forward beer inclinable to acidity is often the result of too short a grist; a thick, stubborn, and rank liquor many times is produced from too large a one. Every advantage may be had in brewing, properly, five or six quarters of malt; it is difficult to succeed if the number exceeds fifty. ”

“ Hence, those acquainted with brewing, easily account, why very hot water, which forces strong and pinguious particles from malt, forms at the same time extracts unfavourable for fermentation, as oils are an obstruction to the free entrance of air; and, from an analogous reason, extracts which are much less impressed with fire, in them fermentation is so much accelerated, that the whole soon becomes sour.
Air, like other bodies, is expanded and rarified by heat, and exerts its elasticity in proportion to the number of degrees of fire it has received ”

“ The intent of every brewer, when he forms his drink, is to extract the fermentable parts of the malt, in the most perfect manner; to add hops, in such proportion as experience teaches him will preserve and ameliorate the beer; and to employ just so much yeast as is sufficient to obtain a complete fermentation. ”

“ The flowing water used in the brewery, at the coldest seasons, we have fixed at 35 degrees, and the highest heat in the air, to carry on the process for beers brewed for long keeping, at 55 degrees. The length proper to be drawn, or the quantity of beer to be made from each quarter of malt being fixed, the brewer, at any time, has it in his power to make calculations for brewings, supposing the mean heat of the air to be at 35, at 40, at 45, at 50 and even at any degree of heat whatever, so as never to be unprovided for any season. ”

“ Is alcohol, then, a new body, created by fermentation and distillation; or did it originally, though latently, reside in the vegetable? I have for a good while been satisfied, by experiments, says Boerhaave, that all other inflammable bodies are so only as they contain alcohol in them, or, at least, something that, on account of its fineness, is exceedingly like it ”

“ A similar want of perfection to that observed in wines, may be noticed in our beers and ales, and it chiefly has its origin in the different degrees of heat the malt has been impressed with, both in drying and extracting; where, in the processes of malting and brewing, a sufficient heat has not been maintained, the liquor undoubtedly must become acid; in proportion as the contrary is the case, or that the beer is overcharged with hops, if this is in no great excess, it retains still a greater tendency to fermentation than to putrefaction, acids not being wanting, but only enveloped. ”

“ As it is impossible for any fermented liquor to be absolutely at rest, the reason of beers being preserved by this method, is, thereby they are deprived of a communication with the air, and, without risk, gain all the advantages which age, by slow degrees, procures, and which art can never imitate. ”

“ The seed of plants cannot be put in a fitter place, for perfect vegetation, than when buried under ground, at a depth sufficient to defend the young shoots from the vicissitudes of heat and cold, and the disadvantage of too much moisture. The manuring of the earth, and the steeping the seed into solutions of salts, have been found, in some cases, to increase the strength of the grain, to correct its original defects, and to prevent the noxious impressions of a vicious ground. ”

“ That the whole quantity of water, as well as that of heat required, ought not, in any brewing, at once to be applied to the grist, is obvious, both from reason, and from the example of nature, who, in forming the juice of the grape, divides the process, and increasing successively both the moisture and the heat, gives time to each degree to have its complete effect. A division of the water and heat to form malt liquors is equally necessary, but previous to this division the following general rules may be laid down. ”

“ The proportioning therefore the heat of the water to the dryness of the malt, more especially to obtain from the grain the whole strength it is capable of yielding, as well as to cause the drink to preserve itself sound its intended time, is of real necessity.
Well-brewed drinks should not only preserve themselves sound their due space, in order to be meliorated by time; they should likewise be fine and transparent.—These circumstances prove the artist’s skill and care, as well as the salubrity of the drink; and are the surest signs of a well-formed must, and of a perfect fermentation. ”