Pruning shears

“ The pruner may take his choice between several styles of hand pruning-shears with which to do his work. The knife is seldom used except in summer-pruning, and here, more often, the shoots are broken out or pinched out. In winter-pruning, the cane is cut an inch or thereabout beyond the last bud it is desired to leave ”

“ The essentials are a knife, raffia and the wax heater with brush. A saw is necessary if stocks are to be cut back, and pruning shears are convenient for cutting scions into proper lengths and for trimming and pruning stocks. ”

“ Personally it appears to me that Walter Sherman's method of rubbing off the buds or very young shoots just as they start growth is to be preferred. Your method of cutting off limbs is destructive pruning. Though you say pruning dwarfs the tree, actually the root is still there and given enough time will not the tree recover?
DR. CRANE: I carried on pruning experiments for many, many years, with apples, peaches, pears and cherries. Since then I have been working on nut trees. ”

“ This, at an elevation of three thousand feet, they generally do in two years and a half. The stem is then topped, to prevent its higher growth and to produce a large supply of lateral shoots.
The system of pruning is the same as with all fruit trees; the old wood being kept down to induce fruit bearing shoots, whose number must be proportioned to the strength of the tree.
The whole success of the estate now depends upon constant cleaning, plentiful manuring and careful pruning, with a due regard to a frugal expenditure and care in the up-keep of buildings, etc., etc. ”

“ The trees can be safely topped and thinned, for the cherry accepts pruning very readily. Even considerable amounts of the tops have been cut off at fruit-picking time from trees which have been running too high, so that the fruit could be secured, and this has not injured the trees, according to our own experience and observation. Cherries can be summer-pruned to check excessive growth and to promote fruit-bearing, but as your trees have already begun to bear well, this treatment does not seem to be necessary. You should do fall and winter pruning for the shape of the trees. ”

“ In cases where pruning begins soon enough, the question which has been raised as to the manner of doing it—whether by close pruning, snag pruning, or fore-shortening—will not apply. All the principals should be close pruned with a sharp instrument, care being taken not to wound the bark too extensively. ”

“ The [Pg 315] leaf does not depend for its quality on the wood, but the wood takes its nature from the leaf. Young trees ought to be grown with side brush from the roots to the fork. Water shoots from the root are to be removed, but leaves upon the trunk are to be nursed. By cutting in the brush when it tends to a long growth, it will emit side shoots, and still increase the number of leaves.
Secondly. There is great evil in pruning too much. France and England have given us our notions upon pruning. There, their own system is wise, because it conforms to the climate and soil. ”

“ Even large standards are improved by summer pruning. Tree-pruners should be used where the shoots are out of hand-reach. Root pruning is also essential in strong soils where trees are too rank in growth and produce wood rather than fruit. Trees of all kinds may be root pruned with advantage in such soils, and also where the lower soil is bad. Open a [Pg 44] trench 20, 30 or 40 inches from the stem (according to size of tree) until the coarse roots are reached. One-third the distance from the stem that the trees are in height is a rule suggested by a recent writer. ”

“ Branch-pruning is essentially the removal of superfluous branches,—those that crowd, that cross each other, that are so placed as to be profitless, that are in the way, that are injured or diseased. For the most part, the branches should be removed when they are small; but it is not possible to foresee all that may be needed in the training of the tree and, therefore, the frequent advice to prune only with a hand-knife cannot be followed. One needs a sharp pruning-saw and sometimes a chisel on a long handle. ”

“ In pruning standards aim at producing an equally balanced head, which object is furthered by cutting to buds pointing outwards. At the first sign of frost the delicate Tea and Noisette Roses need to be protected. In the case of standards a covering of bracken fern or straw must be tied round the heads; dwarfs should have the soil drawn up over the crowns, or they may be loosely covered by straw. Apply a top-dressing of farm-yard manure to the beds before the frosts set in, as this will both nourish and protect the roots. ”

“ Currants are very seldom raised from [Pg 241] seed; as there is no particular desire for the production of new sorts. The usual mode of propagation is by cuttings, which are taken off the strongest shoots in autumn or early in spring, and planted in rich soil. The cuttings are generally about a foot long; and all the buds are taken off except five or six at the top: the cutting is then firmly inserted in the soil about six inches deep. No other care is required but pruning the young trees every year. ”

“ In a Wood, or a Plantation, trees will draw up each other to a certain length, and many of the lateral branches, from the exclusion of light and air, will die, and some of them will fall off; this is, of course, natural pruning: but in a Hedge-row, they have no such help, they will, therefore, require artificial pruning; which should commence at the time of planting, and continue until it can be seen that they will assuredly acquire ample length of bole. The kind of pruning which is here advocated cannot possibly do any harm, if it be well done, and done at a proper season. ”

“ In a dense forest of growing trees the smaller, side branches of the main stem, as well as those of the larger branches, are continually dying off. But the tree rids itself of these dead branches by forming a collar of tissue from the cambium layer around the base of the branch, which presses more tightly as layer after layer of living wood is added, until the branch finally falls off and the hole which is left is grown over in a short time. This process is known as natural pruning. ”

“ Even in the south of England the more tender-skinned varieties often scald in the sun. However, I would recommend the shade of a fence or a northern hillside, rather than overhanging branches of trees. A rich soil, especially one that is deep and moist but not wet, is equally requisite, and the rigorous annual pruning is even more essential. As the wood becomes old and black, it should be cut out altogether. Fruit buds and spurs are produced on wood two or more years old, and cutting back causes these, but they must not be allowed to become too crowded. ”

“ Although an occasional heading-back will be of advantage to the trees, apple, plum, and cherry trees that have been properly pruned while young will not require so much attention after they come into bearing.
Heavy pruning of the top tends to the production of wood; therefore the severe pruning of orchard trees, following three or four years of neglect, sets the trees into heavy wood-bearing, and makes them more vigorous. Such treatment generally tends away from fruit-bearing. ”

“ Planting pear-trees in a very rich stiff soil has a similar effect. Injudicious pruning, particularly in summer, is another cause; as cutting in young shoots, while the sap is in motion, has a tendency to make the tree throw out two new shoots in the room of every one removed, and thus to exhaust itself in producing branches. ”

“ The fruiting of young trees may be accelerated by lifting them when about five years old, spreading out the roots 1 ft. below the surface of the soil, and mulching the ground. The mulching should be raked off in the spring, the ground lightly stirred with a fork and left to sweeten, and another mulching applied when the weather becomes hot and dry. In pruning, leave the leading branches untouched, but let all cross shoots be removed, and the young wood be cut away in sufficient quantity to produce a well-balanced tree, and so equalise the flow of sap. ”

“ If, however, one clings to the old-fashioned Roses from economy or sentiment, they should be grown to their fullest possibilities by pruning, cultivation, and liberal mulching with coarse manure in the fall, and lawn clippings in the summer. Pruning should be done late in the winter or early in the spring before the sap begins to run. Remove all weak and straggly branches, cutting back the new growth to the first strong leaf-buds on the shoot. ”

“ It is not too late to set out seedling plants of such perennials as phlox and hollyhock if care is taken to lift enough soil with them to insure against disturbance of their roots. Work of this kind can be done to better advantage now than in spring.
Now is a good time to go over the shrubs and give such pruning as may seem necessary. As a general thing, the less pruning given a shrub the better, for if left to itself it will do a much better job of training than we are capable of doing for it. But it is advisable that all shrubs should have the old, weak wood cut away each season. ”

“ In the coast region it is a good practice to graft over the whole tree at one time, cutting, however, above the forks and not into the main stem below the forking. This gives many scions which seem able to take care of the sap successfully. In the interior valleys, it is rather better practice to leave a branch or two, cutting them out at the following winter's pruning, for probably the first year's grafts will give you branches enough. This has the effect of preventing the drowning out of the scions from too strong sap-flow. ”

“ It is a matter of a good deal of interest to see why a seedling which wasn't budded at all didn't grow as high as a scion which was budded in summer, stratified all winter, then put into the ground in an unnatural position.
Professor Craig: It is the same principle, I think, which we discover in pruning. If we prune heavily during the dormant season, the effect is increased vegetative growth. If we wish to stimulate the growth of an old tree somewhat debilitated, we go to work and cut off a large portion of the top. We don't disturb the root. ”

“ Dwarf-rooted stocks can be bought of the nurserymen at a small cost; and the Standard stocks, the best for Tea roses, can be usually got in the neighbouring hedges.
Pruning. [12] —The object of pruning is to give increased vigour to the plant, and to keep it within bounds; to make, if possible, a new plant each year, a new top to the old roots. And to do this, severe pruning is absolutely necessary. The harder the pruning, the stronger the growth. Each variety should be pruned according to its growth. If very vigorous, they require less cutting back than those of moderate, or weakly growth. ”

“ Manuring and cultivating about the tree may give it all that it needs. Watch it till spring, and then if it fails to flower, it had better be condemned.
Thus we have seen that in pruning there are three different degrees, the cleaning, or light pruning; the pruning itself, and the more severe measure of cutting back. It is necessary to clean up the trees with the knife after the crop is in, every year, say in January or February, and if the operation is carried a little further, and the tree is really pruned every year, it will be found advantageous. ”

“ In the dense primeval forest we see nature's pruning exhibited upon a grand and perfect scale; tall, straight, and noble trunks rise majestically on every hand; not a twig nor limb breaks the symmetry of the gradually tapering shafts, that are clothed in bark which does not indicate that they had ever been furnished with branches; and yet they have borne branches from their base to their summit, and nature has so neatly removed them that we cannot detect the marks of her pruning-saw. How this has been effected, may be seen in any dense thicket of young forest growth. ”

“ The oak should never be pruned severely, and this rule should be particularly observed when the tree is young. We have known several of the most intelligent gardener-foresters in Scotland err greatly in this; and, by exclusively pruning the oak plants, from misdirected care, throw them far behind the other kinds of timber with which they were mixed in planting. There is no other broad-leaved tree which we have seen suffer so much injury in its growth, by severe pruning, as the oak. ”

“ One of our chief aims is to form an evenly balanced, open, symmetrical head; and this can often be accomplished better by a little watchfulness during the season of growth than at any other time. If, for instance, two branches start so closely together that one or the other must be removed in the spring pruning, why let the superfluous one grow at all? It is just so much wasted effort. By rubbing off the pushing bud or tender shoot the strength of the tree is thrown into the branches that we wish to remain. ”

“ Rich, deep soils favor growth; trees in such soils should be pruned lightly. In light or shallow soils, trees produce few and short shoots; the pruning of trees on such soils should be severe.
A good deal is said about pruning for fruit. It is doubtful, however, whether unfruitful pear-trees can be made more fruitful by the pruning recommended for this purpose. When barrenness is caused by the production of wood and foliage at the expense of fruit-buds, as possibly sometimes happens, summer-pruning may check the over-production of growth and cause flower-buds to form. ”

“ Then if the growth be too vigorous, and there do not appear any indications of the formation of fruit spurs, as is often the case in the fertile soils of the West, our [158] impatient orchardists complain of the barrenness of their trees, and seek a remedy in root-pruning. This is generally performed with a sharp spade, with which a trench is dug in a circle around the tree. The excavation should be deep enough to reach all of the lateral roots ”