Fancy dress

“ The Georgian dress for Fancy Balls is a satin skirt, plain or quilted, over-dress of brocade, velvet, or silk, with coloured embroidery. Sometimes the skirt has a petticoat and tunic, sometimes a train and front breadth trimmed with lace, flowers, pearls, and diamonds; the bodices pointed, low, or high square, with stomachers trimmed. Elbow-sleeves, with ruffles; jewelled necklaces, or floral ones, made with a puff of ribbon and a flower alternately, tied tightly round the throat. ”

“ Low square dress of silver brocade with high ruff at back and long train; short sleeves with large cuffs of gold-coloured satin, and three rows of soft lace below; under-skirt of gold tissue trimmed with Venetian point, and bunches of buttercups and paste ornaments; small stomacher to match; a garland of sunflowers across the skirt relieved by bows and two long tassels of bullion on the bodice; a spangled fichu with gold fringe; head-dress of cream feathers and gold aigrette. Third dress: Two shades of red and sacque of flowered crimson silk looped over a deep red plush dress with train ”

“ A plain material formed the over-skirt of many a dress which bore a striped under-skirt, tight sleeves, and a plain, tightly-fitting bodice. Cuffs and collars grew wider, the linen apron had two pockets, and there was added to costume a circular cape of dull serge. The high felt hat was adorned simply by a plain band of ribbon.
During the Restoration, colour asserted itself once more, and dress was again pretty, a comendable example having a blue linen skirt with a band of fancy material round the hem, a full basque, and a linen collar, the front adorned with braid, the apron striped. ”

“ Black stuff dress, hardly touching the ground, high bodice, sleeves to wrist, linen collar and cuffs; muslin cap. At Fancy Balls the dress is sometimes made of green merino; bibbed apron of cambric, the lower edge turned up, forming pockets, with rolls of lint for bandages, and small cases of plaster ”

“ ICE, ICICLE. A short white satin dress, draped with crystal fringe, silver tissue or swansdown, and tulle; embroidered silver veil, caught up with narcissus or frosted mother of pearl flowers; hair powdered; silver wreath of narcissus; shoes and stockings embroidered with crystal beads. ”

“ Sometimes a chiffonier's basket is carried at the back filled with flowers, and a Normandy cap worn. A pretty dress is a laced bodice and skirt of pale blue serge, edged with rows of velvet; cambric apron; basket of flowers; sleeves puffed to wrist. Or, a pink sateen, with black velvet bodice. A Vaudois flower girl wears a wheel-shaped lace cap, and straw hat above, with woollen skirt; square bodice; low under-bodice; velvet yoke, and ribbon streamers. Sometimes bright-coloured silk handerchiefs are draped about the head. ”

“ Pink satin skirt, trimmed with gold and diamonds, white cashmere embroidered in gold over pink satin; corselet bodice over white bodice; square Italian head-dress, and veil of gold-spangled tulle.
MARTHA. Short skirt of red merino; bodice of grey trimmed with cerise and black velvet; coronet of black velvet; gauze veil. Or, stuff under-skirt, with long over-skirt caught up with girdle and satchel; long bodice, sleeves puffed at shoulder and elbows; white linen chemisette; suited to mddle-aged woman. ”

“ Or, light straw-coloured skirt, with short veiled gold-threaded gauze; stay bodice, straw coloured satin trimmed with heartsease; a large one forms the stomacher and the bodice; a smaller one on the head.
HEBE. Classical dress of white cashmere trimmed with gold; loose peplum with gold belt, the sleeves short, fastened outside the arm with three buttons; a gold fillet about the head; classical ornaments. ”

“ But it must be borne in mind that the word "calico" is of elastic meaning at these balls, including cotton-backed satin and cotton velvet. Tinsel trimmings replace gold; ribbon is allowed; net takes the place of tulle; and very few people dream of adopting cotton gloves or mittens.
To be properly chaussé and ganté are difficulties at fancy balls. With short dresses the prettiest and most fashionable shoes are worn, either black with coloured heel and bows, or coloured shoes to match the dress, and embroidered, the stockings being of plain colour or stripes. ”

“ AMY ROBSART. An Elizabethan dress of the richest materials, velvet, satin, or brocade, in any colours; the skirt or train worn over a hoop is full, touching the ground and bordered with a jewelled band; the front breadth of contrasting colour or fabric may be quilted or embroidered, and sewn with gems; low plain bodice, bordered at waist with frill of material; large upstanding wired lace ruff from shoulders; sleeves, one puff at top, tight to wrist, close ruffles; head-dress a slightly pointed cap of velvet, pearls, and feathers. ”

“ The dress of the Fille du Tambour-Major in the first act is white skirt, with lace-edged flounce; tunic and bodice of grey cashmere with black ribbon; velvet braces; square linen collar coming well down to the bust back and front; a black velvet bow on the head. All the girls in the convent school are similarly attired, with a puritanical quietness which in fancy ball-rooms always has so marked and good an effect among the gay dresses. ”

“ IN LADIES’ dress more allowance must be made for the caprices of fashion; it always has been their prescriptive right to exercise their ingenuity, and fancy, in adorning their persons; and, save that the head-dress is somewhat caricatured, the next illustration gives a very good idea of the style of dress adopted by ladies at the commencement of 1800, some phases of which we are familiar with, owing to their recent reproduction—such as the décolletée dress, and clinging, and diaphonous skirt, as well as the long gloves.
[264]
PARIS FASHIONS FOR WINTER DRESS—1800. ”

“ Sometimes it is looped up as a tunic; or sometimes reaches to the hem of the dress. The following is a Watteau dress: High-heeled shoes, coming well up on the instep, diamond buckles, silk stockings; a skirt of silk or satin, often quilted, short or just touching the ground, or of muslin with small plaited flounces to the waist; a sacque of silk with square-cut bodice, pointed in front, trimmed with lace; elbow-sleeves and ruffles; narrow black velvet round neck and wrists; powdered hair; a muslin apron. ”

“ FINLANDER. Blue cloth petticoat, the edge embroidered with crimson; full white bodice to the throat; sleeves to wrist, rosettes of red down the front; red sash, knotted at the side; velvet sleeveless bodice bordered with gold. Red handkerchief tied round head. A long embroidered over-dress is also worn by the peasantry.
FIRE. Black tulle evening dress over red silk, tunic or train fringed with red and gold tinsel, bodice and skirt dotted with stars of the same, as also the veil; coronet of tinsel to resemble flames; ornaments, garnets. ”

“ THIRTEENTH CENTURY, A LADY OF THE, makes a very effective dress. Ruby velvet skirt trimmed with silver lace; cream-coloured brocade for front breadth and bodice, with long sleeves; high-pointed head-dress and silver-spangled veil.
THRALE, MRS. (Georgian dress) . White silk sacque, the front covered with lace; powdered hair; white cap.
TIME. An evening dress of black and white tulle; with cuirass bodice, and red Dutch clocks hanging at the side; the several hours in Roman letters round the tunic; an hour-glass and scythe for châtelaine. ”

“ MEDIÆVAL. This term for fancy costume has a very extended meaning. It is applied to almost any dress worn during the period of the middle ages, and after. The following are a few descriptions: Corselet and sleeves of bright red velvet with epaulettes, and plaited chemisette of pink crepe or gauze; the sleeves tight to wrist with gold embroidered cuff's, matching the stomacher on the low square bodice, made with belt; short skirt of striped red and white silk, with front breadth of gold embroidery, satchel pocket, close plaited ruff at throat; large silk or velvet hat with feathers. ”

“ Jacket bodice of white brocade, with wide revers edged with gold; tight sleeves, puffed and slashed at elbow. Hair in two plaits; high horned head-dress of period, with gauze veil. Pearl ornaments.
AIR. A white tulle or gauze dress made with several skirts, one over the other, or blue over white, as light and gossamer as possible; made long for an adult, short for a child. The lower skirt is dotted about with silver swallows and other birds, the upper edged with silver fringe or lace, and covered with silver bees and a variety of insects. ”

“ DINORAH. Hair in two long plaits; light blue skirt, with bands of black velvet; lace-edged apron; white chemisette, with long sleeves to wrist; blue square corselet bodice, laced and trimmed with silver and black velvet.
DIRECTOIRE, 1795, COSTUME OF. This is a favourite style of dress at fancy balls, and admits of many good combinations of colour. After the great Revolution towards the close of the last century, women launched into all kinds of eccentricities. Wonderful head-dresses were originated. ”

“ Or, dark blue net covered with red velvet tridents; forks of lightning wired round neck and sleeves; scarf drapery of black satin with firefly wings; silver pitchfork, and horns in hair; short sleeves, long streamers of red satin from the side, falling on skirt and draped at back, with gold fringe, coins, and sequins; black velvet cap with two high horn-like feathers and scarlet lace; gold ornaments. Bracelets as well as armlets worn. For a child an ordinary white and red dress, with black gloves and sash and stockings, and gold horned headdress; forked wand; high-heeled boots. ”

“ On the amount 273 of money a woman has at her disposal depends the bulk of the dress she wears. The strips of material are sometimes 20 feet in length; they are caught up by deft hands and made into a full fold, a half fold, or a V-shaped hook design, until a covering of what seems an inch of cloth is around the figure, worked out in shapes and designs to suit her fancy. None of the women wear shoes or hats, the head covering being made of the bolt of cloth composing her dress. The brighter the color of the material the better she is pleased. ”

“ SWALLOWS, FLIGHT OF. White dress with black velvet bodice; birds sewn on the front of dress, one on each shoulder.
SWEDISH PEASANT. Bright-coloured striped woollen skirt touching the ground; white apron, nearly as long as the dress, with rows of coloured embroidery across the lower part; fur-lined jacket over a white chemisette, with a red and green corselet rounded at the top, or a half-high square-cut velvet bodice embroidered in silver, with short sleeves, and points at waist, back and front; hair in plaits, a large bow of ribbon at the back. ”

“ The light from the lustres is more favorable to beauty than daylight, and the color acquired by dancing, more becoming than rouge, as fancy dresses are more favorable to youth than the formality of a uniform. There was as great a variety of pretty dresses, borrowed wholly from France, as I have ever seen; and amongst the rest, some with sapphire-blue satin waists, spangled with silver, and laced down the back and seams with silver stripes; white satin petticoats trimmed with black and blue velvet ribbon ”

“ FLORA. A white silver-spangled tulle evening dress covered with flowers; shoes embroidered with the same; veil dotted with small blossoms; a maypole or a cornucopia carried in the hand. Or a classic dress with floral insignias.
FLORIAN SHEPHERDESS. Short skirt, trimmed with white flounces; lilac silk tunic, looped with garlands of flowers; pink silk tunic draped as paniers; pointed bodice; muslin stomacher crossed with ribbons, rosettes at each side; the bodice bordered with pink passementerie, short sleeves, silk cape, with ruffles; pink hat, lined with lilac, pink roses; crook with flowers. ”

“ POLISH PEASANT at a Fancy Ball is very unlike the veritable peasant; the correct dress would be a striped woollen skirt; a scarlet bodice laced in front, and trimmed with yellow, over a high white chemisette, with long sleeves; and for a bride, a cap with as many ends of ribbon of all colours and widths as can be procured, replaced on less gala occasions by a cotton handkerchief folded first cornerwise, then the double-edge folded back twice, about 3 inches broad, and tied behind ”

“ The wearer should have fair hair, and be playful and arch. She either wears a riding-dress or a simple green cashmere dress, trimmed with white lace and silver braid; black velvet cap with white feathers and pearls, made in the style worn in James IInd's. reign; plain upper and under-skirt, pointed bodice high to the throat; plain turn-down collar, full sleeves to elbow tied with ribbons. ”

“ Or classical dress of apple green "Liberty" silk, the draperies-caught up with white and purple grapes; large wreath of grapes on the head; flesh coloured stockings; the sandals; tied with purple ribbon.
BACKGAMMON. Maize satin low bodice and short skirt, trimmed with black velvet and gold braid; upper skirt; cut in deep points alternately cerise and black satin, bordered with gold braid; velvet necklet, backgammon men as pendents. Enamel dice for ear-rings; bracelet clasps, and ornaments; cerise satin cap. Cup for dice suspended by gold cord from waist to hold handkerchief. ”

“ Dress was the one unfailing talisman and charm used for keeping all things in their places. Everybody was dressed for a Fancy Ball that was never to leave off. From the Palace of the Tuileries, through Monseigneur and the whole Court, through the Chambers, the Tribunals of Justice, and all society (except the scarecrows) , the Fancy Ball descended to the Common Executioner: who, in pursuance of the charm, was required to officiate “frizzled, powdered, in a gold-laced coat, pumps, and white silk stockings.” ”