Heating appliance

Definition and stakes

N. Hawkins,  Maxims and Instructions for the Boiler Room

“ It does not necessarily require all the exhaust steam—or the whole volume of waste steam passing from the engine to bring the feed water up to the temperature desired, and the larger the heating appliance the smaller proportion is needed—hence heaters are best made with two exits nicely proportioned to avoid back pressure and at the same time utilize enough of the exhaust to heat the feed water. ”
Source: Gutenberg

Ethel R. Peyser,  Cheating the Junk-Pile: The Purchase and Maintenance of Household Equipments (1922)

“ Some firms have now made percolators and water heaters with fuse-nut or safety fuse devices which melt if overloaded or allowed to heat up without any liquid in them to be heated. You must not let a percolator “perc” without any water in it. People complain more about good percolators because their heating element [11] burns out, either because they do this or because they have it connected up with too many other devices. Even if you do the right thing in these respects, don’t forget to disconnect the electricity by pulling out the plug. ”
Source: Gutenberg

S. B. Reed,  Modern house-plans for everybody (1900)

“ Like any other device for heating, the perfect and satisfactory results depend altogether on the manner of setting them. In no case should a heater be expected to develop its full power when placed in a fire-place in so close proximity with the brick as to allow the hot air to strike against and be absorbed by them. The heater should be enclosed in a jacket of sheet-iron, having an 8-inch opening, and a collar at the top. Attached to the collar, and “built in” the chimney, should be an 8-inch tin pipe, connecting with the register-box in the second story. ”
Source: Gutenberg

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