Bolt

“ The bolts are short or long, according to the thickness of the timber wherein they are to be lodged: they penetrate either quite through the pieces into which they are driven, or to a certain determinate depth. The last of these, called a rag-bolt, is retained in its situation by means of several barbs, fig. 3. which, fastening into the timbers, prevent the bolt from loosening from its station by the working of the ship. ”

“ On these bolting axes are fixed, so as to revolve with them, a bolting finger opposite to each bolt; as the bolting axis is made to revolve by the moving power, the bolting finger is turned, and as it passes near the bolt, it encounters the shoulder of a hammer or lever, which strikes the heel of the bolt, and presses it forward so as to shoot its tooth between the crown teeth of the adding wheel. The only exception to this action is the case in which happens to be at the index of the figure wheel ”

“ When the bolt is wholly shot, the stump falls into one notch and prevents the motion of the bolt; when wholly unshot or withdrawn, the stump falls into the other notch, and equally prevents the motion of the bolt. ”

“ Bolts may be made in one piece by upsetting the end of a bar, then squaring the head by driving the piece into a heading tool. A bolt may also be made by welding a collar around the end of a bar after which the head is squared. ”

“ We will get from Hanway a bolt--such as those of the big guns--and what you must perform is this. To-night at the darkest you shall creep from the rock to the plank, and so to the middle of it, and, when there, you will first fix a staple under the board, then through that you will run the bolt. Next, where its head will enter you must make a mortise--another staple will do very well--and then when all is fixed you shall, with a bradawl and a gimlet, so bore the board that t'will yield to any weight when the bolt is unshotted. You understand, my lad? ”

“ Fitting Bolt-Loops.—To ascertain the position of the loop where the bolt or wire goes through to hold the barrel in place, insert a fine steel needle through the wood until it strikes the hole, and then enlarge around it to accommodate the hole and the loop. [119] If for a bolt, a slender tool made like a saw will enlarge the hole in the wood, letting the tool follow in the loop and act as a guide to shape the hole. The finishing of the hole in the wood may be done with a bolt float, shown in Fig. ”

“ As the bolt continues to turn the rib on the right of it comes up clear of the body and the whole bolt, with the bolt-head, can thus be drawn back until the bolt-head comes against the resisting shoulder on the right of the body and the extractor attached to it flings out the fired cartridge-case. ”

“ A plain tap bolt should be turned up along its body, because if out of true the hole it passes through must be made large enough to suit the eccentricity of the bolt, or else a portion of the wrench pressure will be expended in rotating the bolt in the hole instead of being expended solely in screwing the bolt farther into the work. ”

“ Nuts that require a severe wrench force to wind them on the bolt, may, even though they be as large as a two-inch bolt, often be made to pass easily by hand, if while upon the bolt they are hammered on their sides with a hand hammer. The action is in both cases to cause the sides of the thread to conform one to the other, which they will the more readily do in proportion as their sides are more acute. ”

“ In shops where bolt-making is of frequent occurrence a special bolt-making device is usually employed. It consists of an oliver or foot hammer, having two hammers and an anvil; in the square hole at one end of the anvil fits a hardy or bottom chisel, such as shown in Fig. 2908, for cutting up the bar or rod iron into bolt blanks; a is the anvil, h the hardy, and g a gauge to determine the length cut off the rod r to form a blank. An upsetting or heading device corresponding to that in Fig. 2907 is provided, and at the other end of the anvil is the swage for forming the bolt head. ”

“ A bolt is to be affixed to a modern door. Instead of being applied with a plate of iron or brass, in itself a decorative feature on a blank space like that of the surface of a door, the carpenter cuts a piece of wood out of the edge of the door, sinks the bolt out of sight, so that nothing shall appear to view but a tiny meaningless brass handle, and considers that he has performed a very neat job. ”

“ To take out a standing bolt, take two nuts and screw them on the bolt end; then hold the outer one still with a wrench and [I-123] unscrew the inner one tightly against it. We may then remove the wrench from the outer or top nut, and unscrew the bolt by a wrench applied to the bottom or inner one. If the thread of a standing bolt has become damaged or burred, we can easily correct the evil by screwing a solid die or die nut down it, applying a little oil to preserve the cutting edge of the nut. ”

“ Furthermore, with a nut of a fit requiring a given amount of force to screw it upon the bolt, the area of contact will be much greater when that contact is on the sides than when it is upon the tops and bottoms of the thread, while the contact will be in a direction better to serve as an abutment to the thrust or strain. ”

“ If, on the other hand, the bolt breaks, it is very liable to fall out, leaving the piece or pieces, as the case may be, to fall apart, or at least become disconnected, so far as the bolt is concerned. ”

“ The top of the standard, through which the bolt passes to secure the beam, is transversely parallel to the plane of the share, and extends back from the bolt to such distance as to form a brace to the beam, when the after-part is passed down by lifting at the forepart; the share being fast under a rock, or other obstruction, the after-part of this extension is squared in such manner, that being jogged into the beam, it relieves the bolt in heavy draft. ”

“ RING. A commercial measure of staves, or wood prepared for casks, and containing four shocks. Also, the iron ring to which the cable is bent to the anchor in the summit of the shank.
RING-BOLT. An iron bolt with an eye at one end, wherein is fitted a circular ring. They are more particularly used for managing cannon, and are for this purpose fixed on each side of the port-holes. They are [575] driven through the plank and the corresponding timber, and retained in this position by a clinching ring. ”

“ A black bolt is one left as forged. A finished bolt has its body, and usually its head also, machine finished, but a finished bolt sometimes has a black head, the body only being turned.
A square-headed bolt usually has a square nut, but if the nut is in a situation difficult of access for the wrench, or where the head of the bolt is entirely out of sight (as secluded beneath a flange) the nut is often made hexagon. A machine-finished bolt usually has a machine-finished and hexagon nut. Square nuts are usually left black. ”

“ The square corners at e and at f prevent the bolt from turning round more than the quarter revolution when screwing up the bolt nut, and when the nut is loosened a turn the bolt can be rotated a quarter revolution and lifted out of the groove. ”

“ The brass bolt passes over the top joint of the finger when the guard is put on the finger, and may then be tightened so as to keep the guard in its place and to prevent it escaping at the loose. Leather catches may easily be added of any shape or in any position that is preferred. ”

“ With a little practice wire may be wound close enough to prevent slipping.
Home-made Bolts.—The easiest way to make a bolt is to cut a rod of round iron the proper length and run a thread on each end. On one end the thread may be just long enough to rivet the head, while the thread on [53] the other end is made longer to accommodate the nut and to take up slack. A farmer needs round iron in sizes from one-fourth inch to five-eighths inch. He will use more three-eighths and one-half inch than any other sizes. Blank nuts are made in standard sizes to fit any size of round iron. ”

“ To make a bolt in the ordinary way requires welding, but for repair work in a hurry it is better to select the proper iron and cut it to the required length either with a cold chisel in the vise, or with a hardy and a handled cold chisel over an anvil. The quickest way of cutting that mashes the rod the least is to be preferred. ”

“ Put the bolt in the hole, screwing it through the nut, and the construction is complete. The base is improved for the measuring work by fastening a small piece of wood on the board between the legs of the bench. A small piece of metal is glued on this piece of wood at the point where the bolt meets it.
Find the number of threads of the screw to the inch by placing the bolt on a measuring rule, and counting the threads in an inch of its length. The bolt in making one revolution will descend a distance equal to the distance between the threads. ”

“ It is easier to repair work that has tapered bolts than work that has straight bolts. If you adopt a tapered bolt, say, with a taper of 1⁄16 inch to the foot, you are going to effect the making of those bolts and the boring of those holes in a commercially accurate manner, so that they can be brought into the interchangeable system. ”

“ The piece D answers the double purpose of a handle and brace. A lock, E, is made of a bolt, having a long thread and a square head. A hole is bored from the under side through the brace, and a portion of the wood is cut out to admit the nut. A square place is cut out to admit the square bolt head in the bottom pieces. To lock the slide, simply screw the nut upward so that it will push the bolt head against the base.—Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa. ”

“ The bolt is stationary in the foot, the ankle working on the upper surface of the bolt, leaving no possible chance for an accumulation of any grit or dirt, thus making a self-cleaning joint. The steel rod, together with the front and back cords, connects the foot and the ankle. ”

“ With the right hand he turns and draws the bolt back, takes a cartridge between the thumb and first two fingers and places it in the receiver; places palm of the hand against the back of the bolt handle; thrusts the bolt home with a quick motion, turning down the handle, and carries the hand to the small of the stock. Each rear-rank man moves to the right front, takes a similar position opposite the interval to the right of his front-rank man, muzzle of the piece extending beyond the front rank, and loads. ”

“ F is the hammer carrying the hand or pawl S, which operates on the ratchet-wheel, which wheel and hand are arranged in the same way with the same parts in the rifle; but the hand is as here represented on the reverse side. The bolt which holds the receiver is, however, differently constructed to enable it to act in the space which it must occupy. ”

“ I claim, 1st, the arrangement or combination, substantially as hereinbefore described, and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, of the vertical dies, b b, for cutting off and carrying the cut-off length of rod, and for shaping the head of the rivet or bolt, with the horizontal punch or die, m, for shaping the shank of the rivet or bolt, and upsetting the end of the rivet or bolt into a head in the vertical dies. ”

“ Sometimes a bolt, rod of iron, or a gun-barrel, has to be cut off to a given length, and the most convenient way of doing this is to file a row of small teeth upon the back of a handsaw, and with it to saw off the superfluous iron: the first illustration shows the manner of cutting the teeth, and their exact size and shape. Always put in a bit of copper, lead, or leather to protect the gun-barrels from the grip of the vice. ”

“ If the joint is made with tap bolts we may strike the bolt heads with the hammer direct, using as before a light hammer and sharp blows, which will, in a majority of cases, start the thread, after which the wrench alone will usually suffice to unscrew it. ”

“ In this case, a wrought-iron angular piece is riveted to each strap, and these pieces are passed over the bolt e that takes the place of the casting of the former arrangement. Nuts are used, as shown, to adjust the straps for wear. The bolt should be short and stiff, so as to be well able to stand up to its work when the drum is moving or tending to move in the direction shown by the arrow. ”

“ Each cross-arm should be attached to the pole by a single bolt passing entirely through the pole and cross-arm with a washer about three inches in diameter next to the cross-arm. One large through bolt weakens the pole and arm less than two smaller bolts or lag-screws, and the arm can be more easily replaced if there is only one bolt to remove. ”

“ The Espagnolette bolt is usually heavier than the Cremorne and exerts more power in forcing the sashes against the frame; it is also more expensive. Both bolts, however, are available for use on doors as well as on windows, and lend themselves admirably to decorative treatment, as shown in the illustrations.
Fig. 93
The same care should be exercised in the selection of these bolts as for other hardware, and when ordering them, full-sized details should accompany the order, showing sections through the top rail and head-jamb, the bottom rail, the sill, and the lock stile. ”

“ Implements and weapons of iron are numerous. Amongst the former are gouges, chisels, knives, shears, saws, hatchets, awls, hammers, a bridle-bit, the bolt of a padlock, and other objects of unknown use. The weapons consist of leaf-shaped spear-heads, both socketed and tanged, daggers, and arrow-heads resembling those of the crossbow bolt. ”

“ If built up pistons are used, involving follower bolts, such bolts must be of best machinery steel, with screw thread cut for about twice the diameter of the bolt and fitting tightly its whole length. ”