Ira Samuel Griffith

“ As the line is parallel with the face edge, no straight edge test is necessary. The try-square test for squareness, the beam being held against the face side, must be frequently applied when approaching the gage line.
Where the amount of waste stock to be planed is about an eighth of an inch, the plane-iron may be set a little deeper than average. When near the line, however, it must be set quite shallow. If the waste stock measures more than three sixteenths of an inch, the rip-saw should be used, sawing parallel to the gage line and about one-eighth of an inch away from it. ”

“ In smoothing hard wood surfaces, a scraper will be found helpful. If the grain should happen to be crossed or curled, a scraper will become a necessity. The plane-iron may be made ever so sharp and the cap-iron set ever so close to the cutting edge, still the surface of some woods will tear. Sandpaper must not be depended upon to smooth a torn surface. ”

“ There are two adjustments for the blade of the modern plane. The first consists in turning the thumb-screw or adjusting nut, Fig. 46, that the plane iron may cut a thicker or a thinner shaving. The direction in which it should be turned to give the desired result must be learned by experiment, for in some planes it is the reverse of what it is in others. ”

“ By means of a guide or fence, the plane can be set to cut to a required distance from the edge of the board. A stop or depth gage can be set so as to keep the plane from cutting any deeper than is desired. When cutting across the grain, as in cutting dadoes, adjustable cutting spurs precede and score or cut the fibers of the wood on either side of the cutter. ”

“ Whetting Beveled Edge Tools. —The grindstone does not sharpen tools; that is the work of the oilstone. No tool, after it has been ground, is ready for use until it has been whetted.
54. Oilstones. —Oilstones in common use are of two kinds; those which are of very fine grained natural stone and those which are manufactured by pressing a powdered, metal cutting substance into rectangular forms. In selecting an oilstone it should be remembered that the finer the grain, the keener the edge it will produce but the longer time it takes to produce it. ”

“ That part of the blade which is not used for cutting purposes is used as a guide to insure each cut’s being in the same plane as the last. The chisel should be inclined toward the worker, the unused part of the blade pressed firmly against the part of the surface already cut. To make the cut, apply the needed pressure, at the same time moving the handle forward until the chisel shall have a vertical position as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 94. Care must be taken to keep the broad surface of the chisel at right angles to the surface of the work at all times. ”

“ When several mortises or [99] tenons of the same size are to be laid out and are to be equally distant from a face, the gage needs to be set but twice for all—once to mark the nearer edges and once for the farther edges of the tenon or mortise. Should there be several like members with like joints, the gage settings obtained from the first piece will suffice for all.
The importance of working from face sides or face edges only, cannot be overestimated. ”

“ Cabinet scrapers for plane and convex surface work are rectangular pieces of saw steel. Fig. 118 shows a swan-neck scraper suitable for smoothing concave surfaces.
Beginners frequently mistake surfaces which have been planed at a mill for smooth surfaces. They are not; and, unless the “hills and hollows” which extend across the surface of every mill-planed piece of lumber are removed before the finish of stain or filler is applied, the result will be very unsatisfactory. ”

“ The bench top must not be marked with pencil or scratched unnecessarily. Chisel boards are to protect the top from any accidental cuts and should always be used for that purpose. Bench tops that are scraped and shellaced or oiled every other year ought to remain in as good condition as when new except for the few accidental marks too deep to remove, which the thoughtless boy may have inflicted.
Good workers take pride in keeping their benches in good order. Tools that are not in immediate use should [4] be placed in their racks that they may not be injured or cause injury to the worker. ”

“ In testing a piece to see whether it is of the same width or thickness thruout its entire length, place the blade across the surface to be tested, holding the beam lightly against the face side or face edge, slide the try-square along the piece with the eye fixed upon the graduations at the outer edge. ”

“ As far as possible, plan to have the members join face to face. Face sides are more likely to be true than are the other two surfaces and therefore the joints are more likely to fit properly.
Make all measurements from a common starting point, as far as practicable. Remember to keep the head of the gage, and the beam of the trysquare against one or the other of the faces, unless there should be special reasons for doing otherwise.
In practice it is sometimes advisable to locate the sides of a joint by superposition rather than by measurement. ”

“ The block-plane is not a necessity where a vise can be used for holding the piece to be planed. A smooth-plane or jack-plane may, if the plane-iron be set very shallow, do the work just as well. The block-plane is used mostly by carpenters in fitting together pieces which cannot be taken to the vise. ”

“ The inner part of the bark is called bast and is of a stringy or fibrous nature. Bark is largely dead matter formed from bast, Fig. 195. Its function is to protect the living tissues.
Between the bast and the last ring of the woody tissue is a thin layer called the cambium. This layer is the living and growing part of the tree. Its cells multiply by division and form new wood cells on the inside and new bast cells on the outside.
Heartwood is dead so far as any change in its cells is concerned. Its purpose is merely to stiffen and support the weight of the tree. ”

“ When a scraper becomes dull (1) each edge is drawfiled, Fig. 121, so as to make it square and straight, with the corners slightly rounded. Sometimes the edges are rounded slightly from end to end to prevent digging. [73] Frequently the scraper has its edges and surfaces ground square on an oilstone after the drawfiling that the arrises may be formed into smoother burs. (2) After filing, the scraper is laid flat on the bench and the arrises forced over as in Fig. 122. The tool used is called a burnisher; any smooth piece of steel would do. ”

“ Twenty-four hours should be allowed the filler to harden. One filling is sufficient for ordinary work; on fine work the above process is sometimes repeated after the first filling has hardened.
The striking contrasts in the grain of wood such as oak and chestnut, obtained by the use of colored fillers, are due to the dark filler’s remaining in the open grain but being wiped off of the close grain—the “high lights.”
On quarter-sawed oak, each flake is sometimes sanded with fine paper, No. 00, to remove the stain that the contrast may be sharper. ”

“ It is important that a beginner should become impressed with the importance of keeping his tools in the best condition. Good results can be obtained only when tools are kept sharp and clean, and used only for the purposes for which they are made. Tools properly sharpened and properly used permit one to work easily as well as accurately. When it becomes necessary for the worker to use undue strength because of the dullness of his tools, “troubles” begin to accumulate and the “pleasure of doing” is soon changed to despair. ”

“ When taking off thin shavings and in finishing, the tool should be held as shown in Fig. 100. In using the gouge avoid short strokes. Try to take as long and as even shavings as the nature of the work and the wood will allow. The thinner the shaving, the easier it will be to cut smoothly. A circular movement imparted to the cutting edge will enable the tool to cut more easily the end grain of wood, as is necessary in cutting the ends of grooves in pen-trays, etc. ”

“ It is hardly to be expected that any one set of models or of exercises, tho they may be of very great value, will fill the needs of varying local school conditions. The production of a text-book which shall deal with tool processes in a general way without reference to any particular set of models or exercises is the author’s aim. It is believed that such a text will prove suitable wherever the essentials of woodworking shall be taught, whether in grammar, high school or college, and whatever the system of instruction. ”

“ Never attempt to sandpaper surfaces or parts which are to be put together later on to form joints, the edge tools alone must be depended upon to secure proper smoothing.
65. Hammers. —Fig. 125 shows the two kinds of hammers most commonly used by workers in wood. The plain faced hammer has a flat face and is somewhat easier to learn to use than the bell-faced hammer, which has a slightly rounded face. The advantage of the bell-faced hammer lies in one’s ability to better set a nail slightly below the surface without the assistance of the nailset. ”

“ It is used mainly upon large work such as porch ceilings and interior finish, like Georgia pine. On fine cabinet work, one or two coats of thin white shellac is used as a filler upon close grained wood. Shellac forms a surface which after twenty-four hours, can be sandpapered so as to make a very smooth surface. Varnish applied to the bare wood has a tendency to darken and discolor it. Filling with shellac preserves the natural color.
Paste filler is sold by the pound in cans of various sizes. The best fillers are made of ground rock crystal mixed with raw linseed oil, japan and turpentine. ”

“ Too much wax upon a rough surface will produce very ugly, white, chalk-like spottings as the wax dries. These are especially noticeable upon dark finishes. Waxes colored black overcome this but are not needed if the ordinary wax is properly applied.
In finishing with wax the following directions may be [158] followed: (1) Stain the wood, if a very dark finish is desired. (2) If the wood is coarse-grained, put on two coats of paste filler and rub it off carefully, that a smooth surface may be prepared. Allow the stain twelve hours in which to dry, also each coat of the filler. ”

“ Fig. 227. Wood heavy, hard, strong, of fine texture: sapwood yellowish white, heartwood reddish to brown. The wood shrinks considerably in drying, works and stands well, takes a good polish, and is much esteemed for its beauty. Cherry is used chiefly as a decorative finishing lumber for buildings, cars and boats, also for furniture and for turnery. It is becoming too costly for many purposes for which it is naturally suited. ”

“ Directions for Glue Joint. — (1) If the boards are in the rough, plane one surface of each true and out of wind. (2) Pencil the face marks upon these surfaces and indicate in some way the direction of the surface grain as well. Later, it will be necessary to plane both pieces at once in surfacing over the joints, and unless the parts are fitted with proper regard to the grain, it will be impossible to plane one without roughing up the other. Then too, the faces should be so selected that the warpage of one shall counteract the warpage of the other. Fig. ”

“ Gradually raise the handle of the tool until the oil is expelled from under the cutting edge; it is then in position. Use just enough oil to keep the surface well moistened where the whetting is being done.
Rub the chisel back and forth, keeping it at the same angle all the time. A rocking motion and frequent change [62] of angle will result in a rounded end instead of a straight bevel. Some workmen prefer to give the blade a circular instead of the forward and backward movement. ”

“ If the frame is straight, this edge may be planed straight. It is not wise to take for granted the squareness or straightness of a frame. A test or series of tests may first be made with square and straight-edge. A mechanic, however, usually planes an edge until it fits the frame, testing by holding the door against the frame as near to its position as its size will allow. (3) Plane the bottom or top edge of the door until it fits the frame properly when the first planed edge is in position. (4) Measure the width of the frame at its top and bottom, Fig. ”

“ The thumb-screw should be released so that the legs may be moved without much effort. When the approximate setting has been secured, use the thumb-nut for adjusting to more accurate measurement. In describing circles, the dividers should be held as in Fig. 21 and swung to the right or left as is convenient. They should be leaned forward slightly and an effort made to secure a sharp, light line. For most work the two legs may be sharpened to points. Sometimes one is sharpened like a knife point. ”

“ Fig. 56 shows the manner of holding the smooth plane in releasing the wedge, as well as when the cutting edge projects too much.
[35]
26. Planing First Surface True. —A true surface is one which is straight as to its length and width and which has its surface at the four corners in the same plane. Select for this first surface, which we shall call the face side, the better of the two broad surfaces. Knots, sap, wind, shakes, etc., should there be any, must be taken into account when passing judgment. Often the two sides are so nearly alike that there is little reason for choice. ”

“ In laying out rough stock, if the first edge is sufficiently straight, it is usual to thumb-gage for width. This is done by holding the pencil at the end of the rule and using the thumb of the left hand as the gage head, drawing the whole towards you with the rule acting as gage-beam. Fig. ”

“ In a similar manner, lay off on the face edge a center line parallel to the face side, mark the taper and lines of curvature, and work these surfaces as in the second step. Third, the piece may be laid off still further by drawing on the larger end the form of the ellipse which that end is to assume. With spokeshave, judging the curves of the middle with the eye, work out the desired form. The steel scraper is to be used for finishing after the piece has been made as smooth as is possible with the spokeshave. ”