Lapel

Definition and stakes

William Deskitt Foot Vincent,  The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments (1892)

“ There is no doubt a good deal of style may be introduced by means of the lapel, so it will be well to give it careful attention: it is the almost invariable rule to make it narrow at the waist and wide at chest. We illustrate on the diagram one of the most popular modes of finishing these. Silk facings are put on the lapels: and, as with gentlemen's coats, sometimes the binding is put on the top of the silk, and at others the silk is sewn on the top of the braid and coming to the top of the lapels. ”
Source: Wikisource

Günther F. Hertzer,  Garment cutting in the twentieth century (1892)

“ If the lapel is not reduced in width, the long roll will fall over too far toward the armhole, and no coat looks well with an extremely broad lapel on top. The width of the lapel depends on fashion, but all lapels should be wide enough to admit the button-hole and leave a reasonable space in front and back of it. It looks bad to see the button-hole too close to the front edge, or almost touching the seam behind. ”
Source: Gutenberg

William Deskitt Foot Vincent,  The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments (1892)

“ The easiest way to cut a lapel is to use the front edge as a guide to cut the sewing-to-edge by, and to shape the outside to taste. It will be found very beneficial if the bottom of forepart is sprung out a little below waist line, from the original straight front edge as drawn for S.B., in which case the lapel would overlap at the bottom as per dot and dash line below T. It is very difficult to lay down any definite guide in the matter of lapel, they are of course made narrower at the waist. Both character and style may be infused into a jacket by the outline of these lapels. ”
Source: Wikisource

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