Wave propagation

Definition and stakes

Sir J. A. Fleming,  Waves and ripples in water, air… (1912)

“ The whole theory of the trail of waves made by a canal-boat is only comprehensible if it is clearly seen that a water-surface wave has a certain velocity determined by its wave-length. If the wave-speed is small, the waves are short. As the speed increases the waves get longer. Or the matter may be put in another way. We may say that just as a pendulum has a certain rate of vibration depending on its length, so a water wave has a certain frequency, and therefore, a certain speed of propagation dependent upon the wave-length, or shortest distance from one wave-crest to the next. ”
Source: Gutenberg

Portrait of Horace Lamb Horace Lamb,  1911 Encyclopædia Britannica (1911)

“ Finally, it may be noticed that the conditions of wave-propagation without change of type may be investigated in another manner. If we impress on the whole medium a velocity equal and opposite to that of the wave we obtain a “steady” or “stationary” state in which the circumstances at any particular point of space are constant. Thus in the case of the vibrations of an inextensible string we may, in the first instance, imagine the string to run through a fixed smooth tube having the form of the wave. ”
Source: Wikisource

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