Bergamot oil

“ Cheap resin pomade.—Best tallow 81⁄2 lbs., pale resin and pale ceresin each 13 ozs. Perfume: Bergamot oil 31⁄2 ozs., cassia oil 91⁄2 drachms, thyme oil 5 drachms; or, Portugal oil 23⁄4 ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., lavender oil 51⁄2 drachms.
Hair Oils.—Like pomades, hair oils are perfumed either with volatile oils or by treatment with larger quantities of fresh flowers. The oils obtained in the latter manner are known as Huiles antiques, and are the finest and most expensive. Vaseline oil, which is cheap and does not become rancid, is also at present much used as hair oil. ”

“ Eau de Cologne—Cologne Water.—Oil of lavender, oil of bergamot, oil of lemon, oil of neroli, each one ounce; oil of cinnamon, half31 an ounce; spirit of rosemary, fifteen ounces; highly rectified spirits, eight pints. Let them stand fourteen days; then distil in a water bath.
2. Essential oils of bergamot, lemon, neroli, orange-peel and rosemary, each twelve drops; cardamon seeds, one drachm, rectified spirits, one pint. It improves by age. ”

“ In the case of oils like bergamot oil, the odour value of which depends chiefly on their ester content, it is very important that these should not be added to soaps containing much free alkali, as these esters are readily decomposed thereby. Some perfumes possess the property of helping the soap to retain other and more delicate odours considerably longer than would otherwise be possible. ”

“ Hence it is recommended to use the "green tincture," which can be purchased from the larger manufactories of volatile oils.
[21] The so-called liquid orris-root oil is not pure orris-root oil, but generally a distillate of orris-root with bergamot oil; there are, however, also products in which the orris root is distilled with copaiba balsam oil and cedar oil.
[22] Genuine horse fat is obtained from the upper portion of the neck of the horse.
[23] A pomade containing musk cannot be used by everyone, since in nervous persons it may readily cause headache. ”

“ Héliotrope sachet powder.—Ground lavender flowers 50 drachms, ground orris root and ground rose leaves each 25, ground benzoin 10, pulverized starch 50, bergamot oil 10, rose geranium oil 21⁄2, oil of cloves and musk tincture each 11⁄2, vanilla tincture 121⁄2, extrait héliotrope 25, oil of bitter almonds 2 drops. ”

“ Production—The bergamot is cultivated at Reggio, on low ground near the sea, and in the adjacent villages. The trees are often intermixed with lemon and orange trees, and the soil is well irrigated and cropped with vegetables.
The essential oil (Oleum Bergamottæ) is obtained from the full-grown but still unripe and more or less green fruits, gathered in the months of November and December. They are richer in oil than any one of the allied fruits. ”

“ Orange sachet powder.—Ground orange peels 100 drachms, ground lemon peels 50, ground lavender flowers 25, Portugal oil 10, neroli oil and petit grain oil each 11⁄2, bergamot oil 21⁄2, musk-tincture 11⁄2, musk-root tincture 10.
Solid Perfumes with Paraffine. The solid perfumes simply consist of hard paraffine, which, when melted, is perfumed with a corresponding quantity of any desired perfume-essence and poured into moulds. ”

“ Ess-bouquet.—Coriander oil 1 drachm, oil of cloves 7, nutmeg oil 3.5, lavender oil 10, sandal-wood oil 3.5, bergamot oil 30, rose oil and rose-geranium oil each 2, neroli oil 0.6.
Lavender odor.—Lavender oil 50 drachms, bergamot oil 25, cinnamon oil 0.3, geranium oil 2.5, neroli oil 0.5.
Eau de Cologne.—Bergamot oil and lime oil each 30 drachms, lemon oil and neroli oil each 15, rosemary oil 5, rose geranium oil 0.6.
Smelling Salts. Smelling salts are ammoniacal perfumes in a solid form, Preston salt (sel de Preston) being one of the most popular. ”

“ The oil is frequently adulterated with alcohol. To detect such adulteration, Righini recommends the following method: Mix 15 parts of the oil with a like quantity of pure olive oil or oil of sweet almonds. If alcohol is present, it immediately separates, like water, from the fat oil; if no separation takes place the oil is not adulterated with alcohol. The tannin test also gives reliable results. In storing oil of bergamot great care must be exercised to exclude air and light, as it is one of the most changeable oils and soon acquires an odor resembling that of turpentine. ”

“ Oil of Bergamot spreads instantly; in thirty seconds tiny openings appear, not very abundant, and increase in size slowly; in five minutes they are not larger than oil of nutmeg at one and a half minute. At first they have a dotted border, but as they increase in size this changes to a scalloped film, which spreads, until, in eight or ten minutes, they are joined together over the whole surface. This, with the turpentine oil, gives a watered surface in spreading, much more marked, and with a fine play of colours. ”

“ The essences usually sold are made by adding half an ounce of pure oil to one pint of spirits of wine.
Bergamot, Essence of.—From the peel of the bergamot lemon.
Bitter Almonds, Essence of.—This is obtained by distilling the cake or residue of the almonds after the oil has been expressed from them. It is a deadly poison, containing prussic acid, like all other nuts or leaves which possess the bitter principle. Flies drop dead when passing over the still when it is in operation. The essence usually sold is one ounce of oil to seven ounces of rectified spirit. ”

“ Eau lustral (hair restorative) .—Castor oil 2 quarts, linseed oil and tincture of cantharides each 4 ozs., alcohol 13 quarts, bergamot oil 2 ozs., lemon oil 1 oz., clove oil 1⁄2 oz., neroli oil 2 drachms.
Mix the two fat oils and dissolve them in the alcohol by agitation. Then add the tincture of cantharides and the perfumes, and color red with cochineal tincture or henna tincture.
Tea hair tonic.—Bay rum 2 ozs., glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol 2 ozs., infusion of black tea 10 ozs. Mix and per [Pg 311] fume to suit. The tea infusion should be made very strong, say 1 oz. ”

“ But it should be noted that these oils, as well as those of bergamot, caraway, star-anise, and some others, could well be employed for cheap perfumes and for scenting soap. Oil of dill also finds application alone in the preparation of some face washes, and the dried fennel herb in cheap sachets.
Oil of Lilac
can be made at slight cost from the flowers, as the raw material is obtainable without much trouble; it forms a yellow, strong-scented oil. In perfumery, however, use is generally made only of the pomade made from the fresh flowers or the alcoholic extract prepared from it. ”

“ The sticks are cut into the desired lengths while the lacquer is still warm, and the operation is thus continued until the entire mass is worked up. The mass in the pan must, of course, be constantly kept liquid.
Siam benzoin, olibanum, and myrrh each 83⁄4 ozs., storax as free from water as possible 31⁄2 ozs., licorice 171⁄2 ozs., Peru balsam 31⁄2 ozs., Frankfort black 51⁄4 ozs., bergamot oil 14 drachms, African rose-geranium oil, cassia oil, juniper-berry oil, and eucalyptus oil each 111⁄4 drachms. ”

“ Acacia and Pomm. Orange each 100; bergamot oil 71⁄2 drachms, oil of lemons 21⁄2, angelica oil 3 drops, storax tincture 5 drachms, musk tincture 21⁄2, vanilla tincture 5, ambergris tincture 2, ylang-ylang tincture 100, wintergreen tincture 25, bitter-almond-oil tincture 21⁄2.
Extrait fleurs de Mai (May flowers) .—Extract No. 1 from Pomm. Réséda, Pomm. Rose and Pomm. Héliotrope, each 75 drachms; from Pomm. Jasmin 125, and from Pomm. Orange 50; bergamot oil 71⁄2, Ceylon cinnamon oil 21⁄2, orris-root tincture 50, tinctures of ambergris and musk, each 15, ylang-ylang tincture 25. ”

“ For the requirements of the middle classes, quite fragrant perfumes are manufactured by dissolving the cheaper essential oils in ordinary alcohol, and various new odors can be obtained by mixing several of them. The extracts made with cheap oils are well suited to this purpose. The oils most frequently used for such articles are those of bergamot, lemon, orange peel, lavender flowers (French) , lemon grass, nutmeg, clove, and santal. The alcohol must be free from fusel oil and have a strength of at least 70% Tralles. ”

“ It appears to consist of hydrocarbons, C10H16, and their hydrates, neither of which have as yet been satisfactorily isolated. Oil of bergamot, like that of turpentine, yields crystals of the composition C10H16 + 3H2O, if 8 parts are allowed to stand some weeks with 1 part of spirit of wine, 2 of nitric acid (sp. gr. 1·2) and 10 of water, the mixture being frequently shaken. No solid compound is produced by saturating the oil with anhydrous hydrochloric gas. ”

“ For this purpose otto of French lavender, or otto of bergamot, answers very well. We need scarcely mention that the corks are dipped into melted sealing-wax, or brushed over with liquid wax, that is, red or black wax dissolved in alcohol, to which a small portion of ether is added. The only other compound of ammonia that is sold in the perfumery trade is Eau de Luce, though properly it belongs to the druggist. When correctly made—which is very rarely the case—it retains the remarkable odor of oil of amber, which renders it characteristic. ”

“ The numerous formulas show that oils of lemon, bergamot, and orange form normal constituents of every Cologne water; the finer grades always contain, in addition, oils of rosemary and neroli. It is advisable to dissolve the aromatics in very strong alcohol and then to effect the dilution required with orange-flower or rose water. This dilution is also to be employed when a cheaper product is desired.
Lavender Perfumes.
English (Mitcham) oil of lavender should always be used when it is desired to produce perfumes of first quality. ”

“ Oxidized principles have been isolated in essences related to the fatty series, capable of facile transformation into cyclic derivatives, which may be regarded as connecting links between the fatty and the aromatic series. Frequently a natural essence represents a harmonious mixture of various combinations. Oil of bergamot, having a composition of this character, possesses an odor vastly more characteristic than any of its components taken separately. ”

“ Adulteration—Essence of bergamot, like that of lemon, is extensively and systematically adulterated, and very little is sent into the market entirely pure. It is often mixed with oil of turpentine, but a finer adulteration is to dilute it with essential oil of the leaves or with that obtained by distillation of the peel or of the residual fruits. Some has of late been adulterated with petroleum. ”

“ It is well adapted to perfume soap, for which it is much used in England, though rarely if ever on the continent; when dissolved in spirit it may be used in combination with oil of lavender and bergamot for the manufacture of cheap essences, in a similar way to cloves (see Cloves) . If caraway seeds are ground, they are well adapted for mixing to form sachet powder (see Sachets) .
Cascarilla.—The bark is used in the formation of pastilles, and also enters into the composition known as Eau à Bruler, for perfuming apartments, to which we refer. ”

“ Paraffine, 1 ounce; white petrolatum, 2 ounces; heliotropin, 10 grains; oil of bergamot, 5 drops; oil of lavender, 5 drops; oil of cloves, 2 drops. Melt the first two substances, then add the next, the oils last, and stir all until cool. After settling cut into blocks and wrap in tin foil. This is a disseminator of perfume. It perfumes where it is rubbed. It kills moths and perfumes the wardrobe. It is used by rubbing on cloth, clothes, and the handkerchief. ”

“ Freckle Lotion.—Muriate of ammonia, one drachm; cologne water, two drachms; distilled water, seven ounces; mix and use as a wash. It contains nothing injurious.
Windsor Soap.—This is made with lard. In France they use lard, with a portion of olive or bleached palm oil. It is made with one part of olive oil to nine of tallow; but a greater part of what is sold is only curd (tallow) soap, and scented with oil of caraway and bergamot. The brown is colored with burnt sugar or umber. ”

“ Take of oil of bergamot 1 ounce, oil of lavender 1⁄2 ounce, oil of neroli 1 drachm, oil of roses 15 drops, oil of cloves 30 drops, new milk 1 pint, pure alcohol 1 gallon, digest 1 day and filter through close flannel several times. ”

“ To make 1 quart, take nearly one half a pint of cold pressed castor oil and fill it nearly full of 95 per cent. alcohol, then add 1⁄2 ounce of spirits of hartshorn, 1⁄2 ounce of tincture of cantharides, 40 drops oil of bergamot, which gives it an elegant perfume—shake well and it is ready for use.
[175]
Directions for Use.
Wash your head first with whiskey, then apply the hair oil freely, pour it on the head gently and rub with the hand or stiff brush. For children only use the hair oil. To remove the dandruff, comb the head well with a fine comb, do this every time you use the preparation. ”

“ Nor is the outer rind less valuable, as it forms the basis of an excellent conserve; and, when preserved with sugar, is deservedly esteemed in desserts, being a grateful aromatic bitter, and one of the best stomachics.—There is also an oil expressed from the orange-peel, which is sold under the name of Bergamot. ”

“ I. Solution of potassa 4 fluid ozs., borax 1 oz., bay rum 1⁄2 fluid oz., tincture of quillaga 1⁄2 fluid oz., water enough to make 16 fluid ozs. This may be scented according to taste.
II. Fresh eggs 3, spirit of soap 11⁄2 fluid ozs., carbonate of potassium 160 grains, water of ammonia 160 drops, oil-sugar of cumarin 8 grains, oils of rose and bergamot each 2 drops, French geranium oil 1 drop, almond oil 1 drop, rose water 27 fluid ozs. Thoroughly beat the 3 eggs, and then dilute with the rose water. Then add the other ingredients. ”