Formal dress

“ Fashion prescribes the size and shape of bonnets, the make of gowns, their length and their size—the number of breadths and gores—the trimmings, the petticoats, which have become like a second gown, and all the other paraphernalia of a lady's toilette. There is no part of a lady's dress too minute for her inspection and care and legislation. The colour of gloves, the dye of hair, the application of false hair, the make of boots and shoes, the choice of ornaments, are all ordered and arranged. ”

“ The over-part of the dress and the skirt beneath it were boned and wired, and tight lacing ruled in an injurious degree, though the enormous sleeves, ruffles, and skirts might well have accorded such an effect of slimness as to render stringent measures unnecessary.
Dress was a magnificent affair altogether; velvet and taffeta and fine scarlet cloth were used, lace played its part bravely, and silken scarves fringed with gold and silver were thrown over the shoulders, with deep capes of satin or velvet edged with lace. ”

“ His dress was a mixture of oriental and English fashions—a pair of baggy blue pantaloons, bound around the waist with a rich shawl, a splendid scarlet waistcoat buttoned close over his spacious chest, and a robe of a very fine snuff-colored cloth something like a loose dressing gown without a collar. A cap of silver cloth, and a brilliant blue-satin cravat completed his costume, unless in his covering should be reckoned an enormous turquoise ring, which almost entirely concealed one of his fingers. ”

“ The dress of high-born ladies was very similar to that of the men, for it, too, consisted of rucked trousers, of brilliantly-coloured silk, decorated with embroidery and confined at the feet with plain gold bangles or jewelled anklets. ”

“ During those days the length of the gown denoted the rank of the wearer, countesses and baronesses and ladies of lower degree stamping their estate upon the dimensions of their train. Embroidery decorated the gowns and petticoats alike, many of the dresses being cut open in front to display a satin kirtle and an apron embroidered in gold and many colours. The bodice of the dress sometimes differed in colour from the skirt, and the sleeves would match the skirt; and there was much variety in head-dress, the velvet cap tasselled and set with jewels above a floating veil being a popular style. ”

“ For the feminine element the dress is uniform. It consists of a riding- habit of black or dark blue, with bodice and skirt smoothly molded to the form by one of the two celebrated habit-makers, Youss or Creed. ”

“ Dear Sir,—The questions you send me regarding my opinion of the present style of ladies' dress cover too large and varied a field to be disposed of in a moment—that is, if one could dispose of them even after many and many a month, let alone moments. The one virtue of the women's dress of to-day is its variety and individuality. Those who are really dressed and not merely clothed, have their dresses "created" for them, and they belong to each other. ”

“ Indeed, nobody can tell what is the real dress, there are nothing but dress fragments, piled one upon the other, each successive one shaped and draped more idiotically than the other, and, perhaps, of a different color, so that the ideal costume seems to be the one made up of the most senseless accumulation and mixture of rags and colors imaginable. ”

“ The dress of the women is like their habits of life, plain and simple. It consists invariably of a gown of blue printed cotton, the bodice of which ends just below the bosom, an apron of the same material, and a white collar with a flat hem ”

“ Under the new impulse—the new inspiration of the mid-century from the purer and simpler lines, forms, and colours of early mediaeval art, the dress of women in our own time may be said to have been quite transformed for a while, and though the pendulum of fashion swings to and fro, it does not much affect, except in some small details, a distinct type of dress which has become associated with artistic people—those who seriously study and consider of the highest value and importance beautiful and harmonious surroundings in daily life. ”

“ Nothing can well be more sweetly pretty, and delicately neat, than the dress of the women! snowy caps, with deep lace or thin linon borders plaited, white cotton gowns and stockings, gay coloured cotton handkerchiefs crossed smartly over the bosom so as to display the shape to advantage, a large gold cross suspended from the neck by a black narrow riband, or gold chain, with ear-rings, and pin for the forehead of the same material. ”

“ DINORAH. Hair in two long plaits; light blue skirt, with bands of black velvet; lace-edged apron; white chemisette, with long sleeves to wrist; blue square corselet bodice, laced and trimmed with silver and black velvet.
DIRECTOIRE, 1795, COSTUME OF. This is a favourite style of dress at fancy balls, and admits of many good combinations of colour. After the great Revolution towards the close of the last century, women launched into all kinds of eccentricities. Wonderful head-dresses were originated. ”

“ All these people wore garments of exceedingly fine material, mostly white, richly trimmed with elaborate embroidery in colours or gold, the women’s dress being a long, sleeveless garment reaching from the throat to the feet and confined at the waist by an ornamental belt, handsome sandals, much jewellery, and the head bare, the heavy masses of dark hair being wound upon the head very becomingly, and intertwined with ribbon or strings of coloured beads. ”

“ Never was there such a time as the present when dress was so much thought of. Grand dresses now sweep our dirty streets and thoroughfares; rich velvets, silks, and satins are as plentiful as dead leaves in autumn. “There is so much to gaze and stare at in the dress, one’s eyes are quite dazzled and weary, and can hardly pierce through to that which is clothed upon.” ”

“ If we look for the main stem of principle on which modern Costume develops, we seem to find it in the desire for freshness, for the clean, the uncrushed, and the perfectly fitted and draped. Probably a modern lady's ideal would be to wear a dress once, and then burn it. ”

“ THIRTEENTH CENTURY, A LADY OF THE, makes a very effective dress. Ruby velvet skirt trimmed with silver lace; cream-coloured brocade for front breadth and bodice, with long sleeves; high-pointed head-dress and silver-spangled veil.
THRALE, MRS. (Georgian dress) . White silk sacque, the front covered with lace; powdered hair; white cap.
TIME. An evening dress of black and white tulle; with cuirass bodice, and red Dutch clocks hanging at the side; the several hours in Roman letters round the tunic; an hour-glass and scythe for châtelaine. ”

“ The waist of the dress is extremely short; and the long and voluminous skirts, of which an infinite number seem to be worn, commence close under the arms, spreading out, stiffly starched and spotlessly clean, to dimensions rivalling those of the old hooped petticoats. ”

“ The fashion of bordering dresses and skirts with deep flounces of fur and velvet was introduced rather late in the century, and silken girdles of conspicuous width were held up by jewelled clasps, and innumerable gold chains fell round the neck. The round cap, covered by a kerchief hanging to the ground, was popular, and the steeple form of head-dress with pendent drapery tucked under the arm was a distinctive feature of the time. ”

“ A plain straw bonnet, with only a ribbon across it, is in reality in better taste than rubbishy birds or butterflies, or tinsel ornaments.
“Finally, girls, don’t dress at haphazard; for dress, so far from being a matter of small consequence, is in reality one of the fine arts,—so far from trivial, that each country ought to have a style of its own, and each individual such a liberty of modification of the general fashion as suits and befits her person, her age, her position in life, and the kind of character she wishes to maintain. ”

“ Or, dark blue net covered with red velvet tridents; forks of lightning wired round neck and sleeves; scarf drapery of black satin with firefly wings; silver pitchfork, and horns in hair; short sleeves, long streamers of red satin from the side, falling on skirt and draped at back, with gold fringe, coins, and sequins; black velvet cap with two high horn-like feathers and scarlet lace; gold ornaments. Bracelets as well as armlets worn. For a child an ordinary white and red dress, with black gloves and sash and stockings, and gold horned headdress; forked wand; high-heeled boots. ”

“ A fact worthy of remark is, that whilst male attire, through a depravity of taste, had extended to the utmost limit of extravagance, women's dress, on the contrary, owing to a strenuous effort towards a dignified and elegant simplicity, became of such a character that it combined all the most approved fashions of female costume which had been in use in former periods. ”

“ Pink satin skirt, trimmed with gold and diamonds, white cashmere embroidered in gold over pink satin; corselet bodice over white bodice; square Italian head-dress, and veil of gold-spangled tulle.
MARTHA. Short skirt of red merino; bodice of grey trimmed with cerise and black velvet; coronet of black velvet; gauze veil. Or, stuff under-skirt, with long over-skirt caught up with girdle and satchel; long bodice, sleeves puffed at shoulder and elbows; white linen chemisette; suited to mddle-aged woman. ”

“ Your dress should be handsome, but not showy. A silk or cashmere wrapper, richly trimmed, over an embroidered skirt, with a pretty cap, or the hair neatly arranged without head-dress, is a becoming and appropriate dress. Still better is a rich but plain silk, made high in the neck, with long sleeves. Wear a handsomely embroidered, or lace collar, and sleeves, and a rather dressy cap, or, still better, the hair alone, prettily arranged.
As each visitor arrives, rise, and advance part of the way to meet her. If gentlemen, rise, but do not advance. ”

“ MEDIÆVAL. This term for fancy costume has a very extended meaning. It is applied to almost any dress worn during the period of the middle ages, and after. The following are a few descriptions: Corselet and sleeves of bright red velvet with epaulettes, and plaited chemisette of pink crepe or gauze; the sleeves tight to wrist with gold embroidered cuff's, matching the stomacher on the low square bodice, made with belt; short skirt of striped red and white silk, with front breadth of gold embroidery, satchel pocket, close plaited ruff at throat; large silk or velvet hat with feathers. ”

“ Their dress is becoming and modest, uniting warmth with convenience. The married women hide their hair under a close, embroidered, silk cap, with a plain lace border over their cheeks. The single women exhibit their beautiful flaxen tresses, which they plat round their heads, or let it hang at full length, with a knot of ribbon at the end, to confine the braid. ”

“ No costume in itself could be more desirable or better adapted to the work of the wearers, and a more general rather than a more restricted use of this form of dress should be advocated on theoretical grounds. ”

“ For a young girl, a simple dress of wool goods in white, or pale becoming tints, is all that is necessary. Open it slightly at the throat, soften it with a little lace, show the pretty arms in a demi-sleeve, and it is far more suited to her youth than an over-elaborate gown. ”

“ We must not forget the energetic crusade which is being carried on in this country in favour of “rational dress” for women, on lines which are more sensible than those laid down by Mrs. Bloomer, whose name has been immortalized in connection with divided garments for women. ”

“ The artist, on the other hand, makes the gown [171] to suit the individual wearer, considering each dress no matter how simple—and the simpler, the more artistic—as a creation designed to suit the woman for whom it was planned. ”

“ The wearer should assume to be old and infirm; a clock on left side of dress; tunic of dress black, with silver letters telling of any remarkable occurrences of the old year.
YEAR, NEW. Radiant young girl in heyday of youth wearing plain long full satin skirt, with hours in silver round it; silver cord about waist; bodice full; pendent sleeves from elbow, caught up with roses; wreath of roses and veil in hair.
YSEULTE OF IRELAND. Under-skirt of olive-green velvet, embroidered with silver; under-sleeves of primrose-coloured nun's cloth; bodice tight fitting, fastened at the back ”

“ Or, light straw-coloured skirt, with short veiled gold-threaded gauze; stay bodice, straw coloured satin trimmed with heartsease; a large one forms the stomacher and the bodice; a smaller one on the head.
HEBE. Classical dress of white cashmere trimmed with gold; loose peplum with gold belt, the sleeves short, fastened outside the arm with three buttons; a gold fillet about the head; classical ornaments. ”

“ AMY ROBSART. An Elizabethan dress of the richest materials, velvet, satin, or brocade, in any colours; the skirt or train worn over a hoop is full, touching the ground and bordered with a jewelled band; the front breadth of contrasting colour or fabric may be quilted or embroidered, and sewn with gems; low plain bodice, bordered at waist with frill of material; large upstanding wired lace ruff from shoulders; sleeves, one puff at top, tight to wrist, close ruffles; head-dress a slightly pointed cap of velvet, pearls, and feathers. ”

“ On the other hand, you will look much better in a simpler type of dress, one perhaps that has just a panel or a single line of trimming down each side of the front. For you, the dress of many pieces is in the same class as a figured dress.
It’s a mistake to think that your clothes must be tight. It’s not the stylish conception any more. In soft materials, a little fullness in a skirt is becoming. A short stout woman can wear a straight hanging dress, too, if the belt is narrow and slants down in the front. ”