Stitch (sewing)

“ Trousers Pattern Book.
The filling stitch is similar to that used in hemming; the chief difference being in the direction given to the needle. In hemming, its point is directed outwards, or from the workman, but in filling it is directed inwards, or towards him, and in each should be a little, but only a little, slanted, in order to give the sewing a neat appearance. This stitch [218] is used for sewing on facings, and when made with neatness, and without showing itself much on the outer side of the cloth, is considered to be ornamental, as well as useful.
Whisk. Measure. Hard Brush. ”

“ Top or over-sewing stitch (fig. 11) .—This stitch is used for joining selvedges together. To keep the two pieces even, it is better, either to tack or pin them together first. Insert the needle, from right to left, under the first thread of the selvedge, and through both edges, and sew from right to left, setting your stitches not more than three threads apart. The thread must not be drawn too tightly, so that when the seam is finished and flattened with the thimble, the selvedges may lie, side by side. ”

“ Chain-stitch, which I have mentioned as a suitable stitch to cover the join when working in inlay, may be described here, as it is very useful for any work that is not done in a frame. It has been so much imitated by means of the sewing-machine in modern times as to be somewhat out of favour, but it need not look mechanical if used with discretion. It makes a beautiful even line, following any curve with great precision and ease, and will always find its place at the hands of the competent worker, either as an outline stitch or a filling. ”

“ The seam of this has to be joined in a different way to the other garments you have been making. You first run the two edges to be joined evenly together, then fold them over and herring-bone the raw edges down flat. Herring-bone stitch is worked from left to right; you hold the edges of the seam down, and first take a little stitch below the edges, and then one just above, putting the stitches fairly close to each other so that the threads cross evenly. ”

“ It is a stitch that is greatly used for sewing long seams, as on underwear. By this stitch we can cover the distance in about half the time that back-stitching would take.
Fig. 12. The combination running and back-stitch
Whenever you can avoid making a knot, do so, because it spoils the look of your work on the wrong side. You can start your work, if it is a seam, for example, by making two or three stitches on top of each other. Follow the thread of the warp or woof [15] of the material as much as possible. ”

“ The tacking done, the pretty work begins. Thread your crewel needle with the “Sylko.” At one corner count 24 threads in from each side. The hole just where these threads cross is your starting point. Now leave 3 holes below, and in the 4th bring your needle up from underneath for a satin stitch. You will see how to do this stitch in making the doll’s bedspread (page 67) , only as you are using a different kind of canvas here, you leave 3 holes instead of one. Make 4 of these stitches. Leave 3 holes, and into the 4th start another little block of satin stitches. ”

“ In basting a seam, place the basting beyond the seam allowance. When you stitch, run the stitching just inside the basting. This makes it possible to remove the basting threads easily. However, if the stitching is directly on top of the basting, it is almost impossible to pull them out.
There is a cotton which comes especially for basting. It is easily broken. Ask for basting cotton.
Always use a cotton that contrasts to the material. A matching cotton is difficult to see and pick out.
If you use sewing silk to baste silk material, the stitches will not be so apt to leave a mark. ”

“ Use 12 stitches to the inch for the type of sewing you will be doing. Have your leader show you how to adjust the length of the stitch.
When you have finished sewing, raise the needle as far as it will go. Raise the presser foot and pull the fabric back about 4 inches from the needle. Cut the thread with your scissors or on the cutting knife on the side of the needle-bar.
Use a cloth gauge
A cloth gauge placed to the right of the needle will aid you in making straight seams. Place a strip of colored scotch tape, band aid, or adhesive tape to the right of the needle if you do not have a gauge. ”

“ A mat five inches in diameter requires two and one-half yards of round web. Start sewing with the piece of worsted hanging from the end of the web. Coil and sew in place by taking up the underhalf of a stitch on the right, then the underhalf of a stitch on the left side usually called "ball stitch." Continue alternating from right to left, taking up one stitch at a time except when it is necessary to widen ”

“ TAILORS' TACKS are used in cutting out garments to mark seams, perforations, etc. They are used to give a clean exact line for the sewing. When laying out the pattern on the material cut the pieces, and then with a double thread mark all the perforations as directed in the pattern instructions. Baste through both thicknesses of the cloth, alternating one long and one short stitch. Leave the long stitches loose enough to form a loop under which a finger can be passed. ”

“ It really is not necessary to do all the work that has been done so thoroughly and exactly,—to double-stitch every wristband, fell every seam, count all the threads of gathers, and take a stitch to every gather. It makes beautiful sewing, to be sure; but when a woman has a family of little children and a small income, if all her sewing is to be kept up in this perfect style, she wears her life out in stitching. ”

“ It is also possible to make a lap felled seam with regular sewing machine foot, although it means turning the edge by hand. For the first stitching, lay the two pieces to be joined with the right sides of the goods together, letting the under piece extend one-quarter of an inch beyond the edge of the upper piece. Stitch the length of the seam, running the stitching one-quarter of an inch from the edge of the upper piece. ”

“ They are then stitched together end to end by means of special sewing machines, the stitch being of such a nature (chain stitch) that the thread can be ripped out at one pull at the end of the operations. ”

“ If you look carefully at the illustration you will see that the thread is always brought round to the front of the needle before making a stitch, and for the upper part a small stitch is taken downwards towards you, and for the lower part a stitch of the same length is taken turning upwards towards you. ”

“ A large eyelet may be cut out and worked around with the buttonhole stitch. A blind loop is made in place of the eye to receive a hook. Put three or four long stitches in the same place beginning at the left, so that the thread will be at the proper place for working the loop with the blanket stitch.
Joining and Fastening Thread.—When sewing, care should be taken in joining threads. The manner in which it is done depends upon the stitch in use. In hemming, leave a half-inch of the old and a half-inch of the new thread, tuck both under the hem and continue hemming over the threads. ”

“ The bedspread is worked in coarse cream Hardanger Canvas. The little detail of the stitch shows you the actual size of the canvas. If you use a finer canvas than this—as of course you can if you like—then you will have to take your stitches over more threads to get your design the same size as the one shown here.
The shade of blue that will suit Victoria beautifully is No. 709 in Ardern’s “Star Sylko,” size 5, and you could use this for the work on your bedspread; and you will also want some white “Star Sylko,” size 5, for the satin stitch. For sewing the fringe cream linen thread can be used. ”

“ Now you turn in an even hem all round the flap and hemstitch it. Directions for hemstitching are given on page 30. You will also find out how to work cross-stitch designs over canvas on page 26, and you can work your birds in the same way from the diagram given.
You will see that your nightdress pocket would be quite complete without the frill, but this makes a very pretty finish to it. Cash’s Frillings are supplied with a thread that draws up already in, so that you will have no need to gather your frilling but just to draw it up. ”

“ Other uses for the stitching stitch. The stitching stitch can be used for many other purposes. It is a strong stitch for seams. Do you know what a seam is? Two pieces of cloth sewed together may form a seam. Look for seams in your skirt, in your sleeve, in your waist. Can you find any? Some one tell the difference between a hem and a seam. After this lesson Mollie Stark helped her Grandmother sew some long seams. Mr. Stark's overalls had ripped, and the sewing machine was being repaired.
[28]
EXERCISES AND PROBLEMS
1. ”

“ It is now drawn taut and the needle run back into the second puncture of the third section. This stitch is made every time the needle comes out of a puncture until the sewing is finished. When the last puncture is reached, a double kettlestitch is made and the thread cut a half inch from the knot. This is what is meant by “sewing all along.” If the original thread should not be long enough or should break, a new thread is tied on with a weaver’s knot, Fig. 15, always inside the book and as closely as possible to the puncture to avoid pulling the knot through the next puncture.
114
Fig. ”

“ An embroidery needle should not be used for either French knots or bullion stitch, as the eye is apt to stick when pulling it through the coils. A large sewing needle should be substituted.
Fig. 149. An elaborate piece of buttonholing and satin-stitch
Any girl can make dainty and original designs for eyelet work if she will invest in compasses. As [167] has been stated before, eyelets vary in size. The size that is most effective for decorating heavy linen or cotton is an eyelet a little less than half an inch in diameter. ”

“ Pull needle through to wrong side, then through to right side with each stitch―just as you did first stitches in canvas work.
8. Turn bottom of robe up one inch. Baste.
Catch-stitch with close stitches.
Slip ribbon over raw edges
[Pg 139]
Mary Frances worked quietly for some time. “But how will my child fasten her bath robe?” she asked at length.
“Oh,” said Fairy Lady. “That’s a good question! Now learn,
28.―To Sew on Hooks and Eyes
Hook
No. 36 cotton, No. 7 needle. Two pieces muslin three inches by three inches. Fold in half. Baste edges.
The Eye
1. ”

“ Girl's Collar pattern.
CUT OUT NECK—THEN JOIN A TO A AND B TO B
[Pg 276]
3. Use zephyr, in a tapestry needle, and work as in picture on this page.
4. Weave, with a contrasting shade of zephyr, in and out of the long stitches already taken.
Cut a hole in a piece of muslin: draw edge together with the fingers, and darn with cotton thread as above. Stockings are darned in the same way. In actual darning never use a knot.
43.―Darning Woolen Goods
Darning
Stitch
Darning is usually done by use of the running stitch. ”

“ At left hand end of canvas four holes down and four to right, from under side bring needle to right side.
2. Hold thread under thumb. One hole to the right, point needle down, bringing it up in hole two threads below: pull through. Finish row.
3. Fasten as in Overcasting.
4. Repeat this on lower edge of canvas.
“Good!” she said, as Mary Frances finished following the directions, “Now, for a stitch many grown women do not know how to make―a beautiful stitch:
Blanket Stitch
[Pg 55]
13.―Buttonhole Stitch on Canvas
“Oh look!
dear
Sewing
Bird”
1. ”

“ There is a third and much simpler type of open-work occasionally found on seventeenth-century samplers, which is carried out by piercing the linen with a stiletto and overcasting the resulting holes so as to produce a series of bird’s-eye or eyelet stitches. All three varieties of open-stitch are frequently seen in combination with that short, flat satin-stitch, which, when worked in a diaper pattern with white thread or silk on a white ground, is sometimes called damask-stitch. ”

“ In this way stitches are also sometimes worked upon stitches, as shown on the sampler, Illustration 32. You will see, on referring to the back of it (33) , that only the white silk is worked into the stuff: the dark is surface work only. There is no end to such possible INTERLACINGS. Those on the sampler do not need much explanation; but it may be as well to say that A starts with crewel-stitching; B and C with back-stitching; D with chain-stitching; E with darning or running; F, G, and H with varieties of herring-bone-stitch; J with Oriental-stitch; and K with feather-stitch. ”

“ Running is closely related to basting. It is not used for any seams that have to bear great strain, but for joining seams in this material, gathering, tucking, making cords, etc. The stitches are usually of equal length on both sides. Take one stitch in the seam and hold the goods between the thumb and first finger of each hand, as shown in the illustration, with the back of the thimble on the eye of the needle. Then, with as free wrist motion as possible, run or shake the needle through the material. The motion of the hand should come from the elbow joint. ”

“ The stitches are taken alternately from side to side, and the threads cross each other naturally, without any intervention of the needle or thumb of the worker. It is a stitch well known to the neat-fingered housewife for keeping flat the cut edges of a seam where a hem is considered too clumsy. As a decoration it is seldom used in its simplest form; but I have seen many beautiful pieces of embroidery executed entirely in other forms of the same stitch, such as Swiss or Close herring-bone or Fish-bone. ”