Rubber boot

“ One of our naval friends, who was an ardent naturalist, had a pair of French wooden shoes, which he found a great protection while wading among sharp rocks in search of specimens, where india-rubber boots would have been cut and become leaky. A perfectly waterproof boot or garment of any kind is an excellent thing, but an imperfect one is worse than useless; and for wading after specimens or working in the water, if it is not convenient to be naked, a pair of wooden clogs, with a flannel shirt and drawers, and a straw hat or Tam o’ Shanter bonnet, is as good an equipment as any. ”

“ Claim.—The peculiar mode, so described, of preparing the uppers of boots and shoes.
One hundred and fifth, to Charles Morey, citizen of the United States, residing at Paris, France, Jan. 9, 1855. For improvement in re-working hard rubber compounds.
The material is placed in an iron mould closed and subjected to a powerful pressure. It is then placed between two red-hot iron plates, and thus again introduced into the press. When the mould is sufficiently hot, it is put into cold water until it has become cool. ”

“ A good pair of rubber boots are a real luxury, for with them you may tramp about in all kinds of damp and boggy places without fear of wetting your feet, though it goes without saying that you must be careful not to wade in over the tops of your footgear. ”

“ There is no leather worn by ladies that is water-proof, and that quality ought not to be expected. Their heaviest boots are made with a double sole and double upper, which give additional warmth, and protect against ordinary dampness. But the only thing they have as a sure protection against wet is rubber. Rubber sandals or shoes for the sidewalk or a rainy day, and high rubber boots for snow, are a complete security. ”

“ To Waterproof Boots for Sportsmen.—Make an ointment of four tablespoonsful of lard, four of olive oil and one of caoutchouc or raw rubber. Melt these ingredients together on a slow fire. Then moisten the sole of the boot with hot water, and smear the stuff over it. It will render the boots quite waterproof.
To Preserve Buggy Harness.— First rub in one or two coats of lamp black and castor oil (mixed) just warmed sufficiently to make it rub readily. Then sponge with warm soap suds. When quite dry rub over with a mixture of oil and tallow and enough lamp black or Prussian blue to colour it. ”

“ Travellers find these boots great comforts, they take up very little room in the portmanteau, are{128} soon cleaned, and are on and off in an instant; if made of patent leather, they need only a wipe with an old silk handkerchief. No boothooks are ever required, the best hooks being nature’s own, the fingers, and the only bootjack ever wanted, is the toe of one boot applied to the heel of the other.
Dress Pumps are almost the only shoes now worn; they are generally made of patent leather, and should be cut to sit well at the quarters. ”

“ It consists of a skate blade attached by means of plates screwed to the sole of the boot. The front plate is under the ball of the foot, and the heel plate at the heel, and if a very thick-soled boot be used, the absence of support between the two points of attachment, is not practically felt. But a heavy boot is not only unsightly, but fatiguing. If a thinner-soled boot be used, the heat of the foot softens the leather of the sole, which, bending, no longer supports the instep, and fatigue and cramp ensue. ”

“ I dispense with toecaps, or have a very short one just covering the ends of the toes, as I have never found a bootmaker who could put on a toecap of the regular length without contracting the end of the boot and compressing the toes in a dangerous manner.
The ordinary bootmaker knows nothing about an alpine boot, which is very different from a shooting boot. The fault of Swiss-made mountain boots is that the leather is very hard and the boots much too cumbersome and heavy. A guide’s equipment is the very last to be imitated. ”

“ One very important thing to be attended to, is, that the golashes and toecaps of all boots should come above or below the joint of the great toe. Very frequently the edge of the leather comes at the very worst part of the foot; and, strange enough, sometimes we see a hard seam put exactly on the corn, and running across the bunion. If no leather be put at all, the boot or shoe being made entirely of stuff, frequently a secret enemy lurks between the outside and the lining, in the shape of a leather side-lining ”

“ You need to exercise more care in the selection of shoes than of any other article of your outfit. Tight boots put an end to all pleasure, if worn on the march; heavy boots or shoes, with enormously thick soles, will weary you; thin boots will not protect the feet sufficiently, and are liable to burst or wear out; Congress boots are apt to bind the cords of the leg, and thus make one lame; short-toed boots or shoes hurt the toes; loose ones do the same by allowing the foot to slide into the toe of the boot or shoe; low-cut shoes continually fill with dust, sand, or mud. ”

“ A very good type of serviceable boot for rough country wear, is one which laces over the instep and ankle, and, in its general cut, resembles the field boot or shooting boot. As these can be loosened over the instep, they do not bind the foot or bring discomfort after a long day’s wear, and they are much more comfortable for walking. ”

“ The style of a boot is simply a matter of fancy. The boot-trees should more nearly imitate the natural limb, and not present that extreme swelled appearance, as many do, thus causing the side seam to burst out. Make the top of the boot leg slightly larger than the heel measurement as a general rule, and add to or diminish from it, as the instep is high or low. In some cases of high instep more room is wanted, consequently more leather in the instep; this is obtained by cutting the upper fuller at the bottom. ”

“ Get boots like those of a man, low-heeled and with a straight line from heel to back of top. Don't have the tops wider than absolutely necessary not to bind, and don't have them curved or fancy in shape. Be sure that there is no elbow sticking out like a horse's hock at the back of the boot, and don't have a corner on the inside edge of the sole. And don't try to wear a small size! ”

“ It is a remarkably fine specimen of these inconvenient things, and is as straight and stiff and formal, as the most inveterate Dutchman could wish. The heel it will be perceived is very high, and the press upon the instep very great, and consequently injurious to the foot, and altogether detrimental to comfort. An immense piece of leather covers the instep, through which the spur is affixed, and to the back of the boot, just above the heel, is appended an iron rest for the spur. ”

“ I have no hesitation in pronouncing the Tibetan boots, from a practical point of view of utility, as the best in the world. They have all the advantages a boot should possess, especially those with flat soles of thick twisted cord. The upper part, being made of red and green felt, keeps the foot warm without preventing ventilation, and plenty of spreading room is left for the toes when walking. The felt gaiter, reaching to just below the knee, holds the soft sole of the boot flat under the foot, giving absolutely free action to the ankle. ”

“ In decided cases of rickets inch-broad strips of thin steel may be inserted between lining and leather from the top of the boot right down each side of the ankle; these may be made as high even as the knee, and will be found more comfortable, being very much lighter than the irons usually worn for incipient bandy legs. Not only does deformity result from the use of improper boots, but from the discomfort arising from them the natural activity of childhood is impeded, and the whole constitution suffers accordingly. ”

“ Loose boots, that allow the heel to slip up and down, or the whole foot to slide forward at every step, are effective in the production of these annoyances. Hard, stiff leather is another quite efficient thing in this way. Whether the boot be tight or loose makes not much difference, if it be stiff and hard. Large wrinkles over the joint may sometimes have an effect of the same kind, especially if the leather is no softer “than it ought to be.” High heels, that pitch the foot forward, and keep it constantly bearing against the leather over the toes, have a great tendency to develop corns. ”

“ Each of the different kinds of boots has certain peculiar advantages which, in addition to its being fashionable, contribute to make it popular. The side-spring boot, that has been a favourite so long, seldom slips at the heel, and this is a decidedly good point; it also, by fitting closely at the ankles, gives a feeling of snugness and security which is comfortable, [Pg 140] while it admits of perfect freedom in all movements of the ankle in walking. ”

“ For positive use, the boot ought to come up fully to, or above, the knee, in order to stand the wear and pressure of the saddle; but for ornament, it may well be allowed to rise only partially up the leg, and to be, in short, the beautiful Hessian or Hungarian boot—far the most graceful covering ever put on the leg of a modern European. That such a truly elegant boot, so gentlemanlike, so dressy, and yet so thoroughly serviceable, should ever have gone out of fashion, is to us a melancholy, though not a needed, proof of the sheer caprice by which men's fancies are commonly swayed. ”

“ The best boot for riding purposes, found to be the most comfortable, and one easy to get on and off, is made of some light leather, or kid, for summer use, and of heavier leather for winter; it extends half way to the knee, laces up in front, has broad, low heels and wide soles, and is made a little longer than the wearer's foot, so that it may be perfectly easy, as a tight boot in riding is even more distressing than in walking.
The corset is indispensable to the elegant fit required in a riding habit, but should never be laced tight. ”

“ Of the amplitude of its tops, the woodcut will give{50} an idea, it is copied from one worn by a courtier of Charles’s train, in the engravings illustrative of his coronation. The boot is decorated with lace all round the upper part, and that portion of the leg which the boot encases, seems fitted easily with pliant leather: over the instep is a broad band of the same material, beneath which the spur was fastened; and the heel is high, and toe broad, of all the boots and shoes then fashionable. ”

“ For a number of rock surfaces a soft sole serves better than a nailed boot. It permits of a sharper flex of the ankle, and restores to the foot much of the sensitive and prehensile quality of the hand. Its more flexible surface will cling to or over excrescences and flat planes upon which a boot could find little or no support. It enables the foot to be thrust toe-forward into narrower horizontal cracks or pockets, and toe-downward, for leverage, behind flakes split vertically. It is more secure upon steep, smooth slabs, in back-and-toe chimney climbing and upon delicate traverses. ”

“ Shoes thus cut, and made on such lasts are almost invariably bent in the shank in order to conceal the ignorance of the manufacturer or designer. But the foot is sure to betray the deformity of the last and the cut of the uppers. Boots and shoes thus made are literally spoiled, unless the wearer can keep the ankle back to an angle of forty or forty-five degrees, which is the position of the foot when thrown forward, while in a sitting position.
No. 5. represents a side view of a lady’s last for high-heeled boots, and its block. ”

“ Whether boots or leggings are worn, they should be of a length sufficient to come well up over the breeches, but should be about two inches shorter than a man’s boot or leggings would be, because the right knee in the side-saddle is bent at much more of an angle than it is when riding astride, and if the boot is too long it is very apt to pinch the flesh between the pommel and the top of the boot. ”

“ A broad sole throughout materially stiffens the boot and gives a welcome sense of security when standing in ice-steps. The boot should fit closely at the heel and around the instep but entire freedom in all directions must be provided for the toes. If the toes are cramped they will freeze very easily. ”

“ It should be observed whether there is a superfluity of leather in the waist of the foot, that is, under the arch of the foot. The existence of such useless leather is a sure sign that the boot has been badly lasted, and that it has little or no spring in it, and that it will consequently give little or no support to the arch of the foot it covers. ”

“ But as this kind of sensitiveness is, in healthy persons, very much a matter of habit, it is perhaps quite as well for such to accustom themselves to wearing an ordinary doubled boot through the winter, unless much exposed, and put on a light boot, shoe, or gaiter for the summer. Appropriateness and adaptation to weather or circumstances are always to be considered. A heavy leather boot with double sole is as much out of place and time in a warm day, as a light cloth gaiter in a snow-storm. ”

“ When the outside of the boots was blacked it would form a distinct contrast to the inside, which remained brown, and in modern top boots the difference in colour has been in many cases greatly accentuated. Indeed, the upper parts are made of different leather, and as ordinary coat cuffs are now incapable of being turned down, the tops of the [66] boots are immovable and cannot be turned up. It is curious, however, that the tags at the sides are still represented and sewn to the boot so as to be quite useless, while new tags placed inside the boot now do their duty. ”