Cut

“ In practical garment cutting, a cutter is often compelled to cut some backs narrower or smaller on the same kind of a garment in order to save material, or in some cases, when a larger garment is to be cut down to a smaller size, where the points around the back of the armhole, or at the shoulders, cannot be made even with our patterns, then it comes handy for a cutter, if he be able, to place certain quantities on either back or front and take it off on the other. ”

“ A cut, however close, leaves a base from which they may always spring again, but if pulled or wrenched out they bring away with them the swollen base that, if left in, would be a likely source of future trouble. ”

“ Fig. 15 illustrates the feeds that are often used when turning cast iron. The view to the left shows a deep roughing cut and the one to the right, a finishing cut. By using a broad flat cutting edge set parallel to the tool's travel, and a coarse feed for finishing, a smooth cut can be taken in a comparatively short time. Castings which are close to the finished size in the rough can often be finished to advantage by taking a single cut with a broad tool, provided the work is sufficiently rigid. ”

“ The first cut should, if possible, be deep enough to get beneath the scale, especially if turning cast iron, as a tool which just grazes the hard outer surface will be dulled in a comparatively short time. ”

“ Be sure to lay all the pieces of the pattern on the cloth before cutting. Find a flat surface. Remember that the wide end of a gore is apt to cut to better advantage at the end of the piece of cloth. Can the gores be fitted so as to cut more economically? (Fig. 34.) Pin the parts carefully, not using too many pins. Mark all the notches with pencil, chalk, or basting thread. Do not cut notches; one is liable to be careless and to make them too large. Use long cuts, and make even edges in cutting. Good shears help.
EXERCISES AND PROBLEMS ”

“ In fitting clothing according to the present style, a cutter must see, though he is compelled to cut a coat for a long neck higher than usual, that it gets not too high, but as low as possible for that purpose, and cutters who are not above trying on will often find it to advantage to change the height of the collar a trifle, thought the fit may be the same for all. ”

“ When seeing a collection of patterns, one is astonished at the great variety in cut used to arrive at the different bodice types. Several patterns of single pieces are given, as it aids one to find the fellow-part; for example, the photo of a back given in Fig. C, Plate III (see p. 55) , will go with the front cut on page 290; even though these two pieces did not belong to the same body, the cut is seen from [277] which to design the missing part. Often a small piece is wanting for the top of the shoulder, which can easily be supplied to fill the sleeve measurement. ”

“ As the front of the pit of the stomach opens and becomes longer, it will pull the front of the coat upward. If we cut the waist through in front and sidewise, this cut will fall apart in front and at the side, and the back will set smoothly. ”

“ I shall now leave this subject of cutting for the present, and describe, up to about the same point, the processes of painting, taking both on to a higher stage later—as if, in fact, I were teaching a pupil; for as soon as you can cut glass well enough to cut a piece to paint on, you should learn to paint on it, and carry the two things on step by step, side by side. ”

“ Some are of such a soft and yielding nature that any attempt to cut them is an utter failure, for in place of a perfect section being obtained, nothing remains upon the knife but a mass of diffluent pulp; others, again, are of such density as to resist the action of any cutting instrument. ”

“ Whatever you do when you are roughing down a stick of wood don’t try to take off too large a cut. Go at it very gently with the point of your chisel and as it begins to cut you can swing the tool around so that the whole width of the blade is cutting. ”

“ Of the matter of cut we have treated in our section dealing with "The Principles of Fit: " and as long as the seams runs exactly over the prominence or depression, all that is necessary will he to provide for them by suppressions, &c.; but as soon as the seams run to the one side or the other, then manipulation will be necessary, as for instance in the sideseams: if the back is cut very wide and straight, then the back must be fulled on to the sidebody ”

“ At my right hand is a woman cutting wood. This is part of the women’s work, and they have learned the art of using their cutlasses so well, that, in a short time, they cut and carry on their heads more than I can raise from the ground. ”

“ CUTS AND WOUNDS.—Clean cut wounds, whether deep or superficial, and likely to heal by the first intention, should always be washed or cleaned, and at once evenly and smoothly closed by bringing both edges close together, and securing them in that position by adhesive plaster. Cut thin strips of sticking plaster, and bring the parts together; or if large and deep, cut two broad pieces, so as to look like the teeth of a comb, and place one on each side of the wound, which must be cleaned previously. ”

“ All that can be done is to point out certain forms; and the cutter who starts out on his cutting tour through life must always be on his guard, and study his customers, and imprint their forms upon his own brain. ”

“ It is, of course, too much to expect that garments cut with extremely wide or narrow backs can have sleeves made to fit as nicely as those cut a natural width; the prominence of the shoulder must be provided for, necessitating in. the case of narrow backs a much larger amount of fulness; whilst, if the back and shoulders were excessively wide, the sleeve would need to go in plain or even positively tight. ”

“ Он порезал себе руку, когда упал. • резать. This knife doesn't cut. Этот нож не режет. — The bread was dry and did not cut easily. Хлеб был чёрствый, и его трудно било резать. • нарезать. Let's cut the cake now! Давайте теперь нарежем торт! • порез. The cut on my finger is nearly healed. Порез на моём пальце почти зажил. • кусок. She buys only choice cuts of meat. Она покупает только отборные куски мяса. — What other cuts do you have? У вас есть другие куски? • часть, доля. ”

“ The more it toughens, the harder it cuts, the more friction there is, the more the curd is torn and bruised, and the more the waste. If we could cut early and cut instantaneously, it would be all the better. ”

“ When the tool begins to take the full depth e of the cut, the point, which ordinarily would be set a little above the center, tends to spring downward into the work, and if there were considerable springing action, the part would probably be turned below the finished size, the increased reduction beginning at the point where the full cut started. ”

“ When the rough stock is only a little larger than the finished diameter, a single cut is sufficient, but if there is considerable metal to turn away, one or more deep roughing cuts would have to be taken, and, finally, a light cut for finishing. ”

“ A pretty figure you’d cut if you had your way! And after I’ve gone and bought you this nice new pail and filled it especial to start on!” ”

“ In a roughing cut the object is to remove the surplus metal as quickly as possible, and prepare the work for the finishing cut, hence there is no objection to removing the tool to regrind it, providing time is saved. ”

“ Cutting Nails and Hair.—Cut your finger-nails every Friday, and you'll not have the toothache. (M. A.)
When you cut your finger-nails or hair, see that the moon is full. Be careful to burn your hair; do not throw it in the path of other people, because it might do them harm. Never, under any circumstances, pick up human hair lying in the road, especially woman's hair. ”

“ This method of cutting is quite dangerous, so care must be taken. Perhaps, a less dangerous method, tho not so practical, is to heat the bar red and cut the piece off with a hot chisel and sledge, or on the hardie, if one has no helper. ”

“ When anything—flower, fruit, or figure—is wrought by itself upon a separate piece of silk or canvas, and afterwards sewed on to the vestment for church use, or article for domestic purpose, it comes to be known as “cut-work.” ”

“ When such an edge—almost as thin as paper—comes in contact with a stiff beard, unless the the blade is held very flat upon the face, it is quite likely to bend and spring, and a cut will be the result. ”

“ We rind young men can better grasp these by cutting one out, baisting it together, and trying it on a figure of the same breast measure as the pattern is cut for. We seldom cut them out by system, that is, by drawing-lines and angles, for they are generally worn as part of a garment, and as such must necessarily be made to harmonize with the parts it has to be worn with: hence we iu variably use the parts of the pattern they will be worn in connection with, such as the forepart, sidebody, and sleeve to draft them out by. ”

“ To attempt to cut delicate sections of soft tissues with the stout knives which are suitable for cutting sections of woody fibre would be to destroy 84the sections, while to reverse the operation and cut sections of wood with thin, delicate knives would result in the ruin of the knife. ”

“ In small work where the cuts are not great, and where but one roughing cut is taken, it is an object to have the roughing cut leave the work with as smooth a surface as possible, and the amount of side rake may be small as in Fig. ”

“ This applies not only in a case where both of these cuts are circling the same spot, (but) even if the first cut you made up near the head and the second cut you made further down, its acceptable, whether it's one person who made a cut like this in two or three spots or if it was two people who slaughtered (in this manner) using two different knives, it is acceptable. ”

“ So much might be said on this topic that we feel we should be overlooking a most important factor in successful cutting if we did not make some allusion to it, for not only must we have the seams to run in graceful curves and devoid of all sharp angles, etc., but they must be also arranged so as to bring out the special points of beauty which exist in a more or less degree in every figure, as well as toning down other prominent points which detract from its graceful appearance. ”

“ A cutting costs so little that it pays to use only the strongest and best, when a much better stand will be the result. Frosted cuttings can be detected by their darker color. Fresh and healthy cuttings should have a green and fresh cambium or inner bark, and a fresh cut should show fresh sap oozing out. ”

“ Some of our readers may desire to cut all their garments out without any seams allowed; if so, they may use the ordinary 1 inch suppression from construction line at back, and take out the usual 1 inch suppression between back and sidebody and sidebody and sidepiece as elsewhere described. ”

“ The way to cut anything out is—cut it out!—a quick slash—just cut. If you make a dozen little slashes, each of them hurts as much as the one big slash—and the dozen hurt twelve times as much—bleed twelve times as much—put off the cure a lot more than twelve times as long. ”

“ Ceremonies at Hair-cutting.—But when it becomes necessary to crop the hair, measures are taken to lessen the dangers which are supposed to attend the operation. The chief of Namosi in Fiji always ate a man by way of precaution when he had had his hair cut. ”

“ He stated that a man with a wound, which he explained to mean a cut, would go and stand in the well within the wall, and there he would untie the rag that had been used to tie up the wound and would wash the wound with it: then he would tie up the wound with a fresh rag and hang the old one on the tree. The more respectable people whom I questioned talked more vaguely, and only of tying a rag to the tree, except one who mentioned a pin being thrown into the well or a rag being tied to the tree. ”

“ And as to cutting, it is only necessary to place the number of pieces of fabric desired to be cut in cutting dies, or upon a table, and over them an “over-board” cutter, which comprises a reciprocating band-saw, or a rotary knife, all quick, keen and delicate, in an apparatus guided by hand, in order to produce in the operation a great pile of the parts formerly so slowly produced, one at a time, by scissors or shears. ”

“ But when a few moments had passed, he took heart again, and a third time he stretched out his hand for the axe, and began to cut. But some one called out a third time, and said loudly,
"He who cuts wood for reels shall die. ”

“ Thus in a common cut or wound, when the edges are separated, we apply stitches or adhesive plaster to bring the parts into closer union, so that in the granulating or reparative process, nature has much less to accomplish. ”

“ Every woman, even the most respectable, had roses blooming under glass; lips cut with a knife; curls of Indian ink; there was design, art, everywhere; a change of some sort had undoubtedly taken place. ”

“ When a regular pattern is cut addition is made where pleats are wanted. When more fullness is wanted in the sleeve the easiest and most correct plan is to cut the sleeve in two, from the highest part of the sleeve-head, and opened as far as required, about 1 or 2 inches, and a little more round put on the top. ”

“ Shaving was not an easy task, for his hand continued to shake very much; and shaving requires attention, even when you don't dance while you are at it. But, if he had cut the end of his nose off, he would have put a piece of sticking-plaster over it, and been quite satisfied. ”

“ If still you think me mad, you will think so no longer when I describe the wise precautions I took for the concealment of the body. The night waned, and I worked hastily, but in silence. First of all I dismembered the corpse. I cut off the head and the arms and the legs. ”

“ Though fearfully crushed and mangled by the fall from such a height, the corpse was found to exhibit a deep cut in the head, which, in the opinion of a skilful surgeon, must have been inflicted by a broad-sword, or cutlass. ”