Collar (clothing)

“ In visiting different tailor shops we find that the dressing of the under-collar is accomplished in many different ways, and for aught I know all may be right—if they suit the customer, or if the collar is on, as it is required by the coat. ”

“ An interesting relic is to be seen in the two little linen flaps which we call bands (see Figure 35) . These are still worn by preachers in conjunction with the Geneva gown, by barristers, and by Blue-coat boys (see Figure 36) , and [45] we can easily trace their relationship to the collar. Until a few years ago the choristers at Jesus College, Cambridge, wore a peculiar collar which ended in two flaps much resembling bands, and the descent of this from the large structures which were called falling bands is not difficult to trace. ”

“ This is surmounted by an over-dress in a contrasting colour, elaborately embroidered with the insignia of the husband's rank, and terminating just below the knees, while the sleeves reach to the wrist, where they are supplemented by tight inner sleeves, belonging to the under-dress, and almost completely concealing the hand. The collar is not more than an inch deep, and is round in shape, a becoming touch being added by a narrow scarf of soft silk twisted once about the throat, and knotted loosely, with the ends allowed to hang unevenly in front. ”

“ If the collar joining does not roll to the outside, the joining can be made with a narrow flat fell seam. (Chapter 17, page 87.)
A single or double collar should never be joined to the neck of a transparent blouse with a facing, for it makes a thick seam which will show on the outside. ”

“ The collar is made to serve either as a stand collar for drill purposes, and to fall over for mess wear. It is made of scarlet cloth, with collar and pointed cuffs, or the regimental facings, edged all round with white cloth, 1⁄8 inch wide, ten buttons down the front, two above each cuff at back of sleeve, with shoulder cords, as worn on the doublet. In the Royal Highlanders, the jacket will have bluff silk lining, except for collar, which is dark blue, and no facing cloth on the inside. ”

“ This drawing indicates that even the very broad stand-up collars worn in uniforms in the early part of this century, and of a different color from that of the coat, were merely survivals of an older form of turn-down collar. In these days, notwithstanding that the same difference in color indicates that the collar was originally turned down, yet in all uniforms it is made to stand up.
The pieces of braid or seams which run round the wrist in ordinary coats are clearly the last remains of the inversion of the cuffs. ”

“ In the exaggerated garment of which we give an illustration (see Figure 33) this need is most manifest; but a moment’s thought will show that the provision must be made, even if the collar be small. A trifling experiment will indicate that at the present day the cut is not usually made deep enough to allow of the collar being turned up without disturbing the lapels. ”

“ This way of making and sewing on a collar is far superior to the usual custom of dressmakers, and is always adopted by tailors in making jackets or other ladies’ garments.
The back has at its centre, below the waist, a lap, which can be put in a box-pleat or lapped over like a coat, and at the side it has a simple pleat.
The front has a large dart cut in one piece—that is, like a sack coat, having the skirt attached to the body—but the side-body is sewed in as cut, in a separate piece. Over the hips pockets are put in covered with liberal flaps. ”

“ On other occasions he is attired in a dark-brown coat, with a velvet collar, a white neckerchief, in which a thin gold watch-chain is entwined, a waistcoat with a collar of cramoisie and gold stars, an under-waistcoat of white satin, embroidered with gold flowers, full black pantaloons, spun silk stockings, and short square shoes. ”

“ This plan would perhaps not be objectionable in the winter if with the height of the covering there was no accompanying tightness or stiffness; but laces swathed round the neck are often fastened too tightly, and high collars of starched linen are in every way objectionable, preventing ventilation, hampering circulation, and being incapable of absorbing perspiration. The "Masher" collar is a thing to be avoided with horror—a very instrument of torture, and ladies should not be induced to wear it, even if their male relations have sufficiently taken leave of their senses to do so. ”

“ The neck edge of the facing is stretched sufficiently to make it lie smoothly when the collar is rolled back. After pinning the collar facing around the neck and down the front, roll the collar and facing over and roll the fronts back. Put your hand under the collar and smooth it outward, so that it does not wrinkle on the collar facing. ”

“ It is easier to sew on the collar while the waist is out flat, than after the underarm seams are closed. To line the collar, lay the collar lining on the right side of the collar and stitch around the outer edges: then turn the collar right side out.
In joining the collar to the neck, place the collar on the wrong side of the garment with the raw edges of the collar even with the edges of the neck and the right side of the collar next to the wrong side of the waist. Stitch Fig. (44) Completing the hem around the neck, joining the outside collar to the neck edge and leaving the lining free. ”

“ About fifty years ago elderly gentlemen usually wore a high, tight collar, reaching partly up the cheek, with a couple of cravats wound round; younger men wore also a high collar, and one silk cravat twice round. ”

“ Let us be content to be ourselves, members of the honourable and ancient Guild of Guys.
There seems to be a general agreement to dispense with collars this year, and adopt instead a red worsted comforter, which is quite as sightly, and very much more hygienic in these raw, foggy days. But, if you must have a collar, have one in the "stick-up" shape, with the ends slightly dog's-eared; the necktie can hardly be too simple. ”

“ Shirts and collars should be taken freely, as it is well to remember that the native washerman—the well-abused “Dobie”—has a marvellous skill in producing a saw-like rim to the starched collar and cuff of the newest shirt; while the elegant and delicate lace and embroidery, with which the fair are wont to embellish their underwear, take strange and unforeseen patterns at the hands of the skilled workmen. ”

“ We must watch fashion, and see how high the standing collar is, how much the turn-down is behind, or how wide the front is to be. A competent coat-maker can take almost any piece of bias cloth and canvas and press it into shape to make a good collar, but experience proves that not all coat-makers will or can do it. A vest with the standing collar cut off must have the neck cut out at the side, and at the angle of 45 deg., at least from 41⁄2 to 43⁄4; because the sewed-on standing collar must fill the place of the neck-band of a vest with the collar cut on. ”

“ Light brown, or dark material is the most becoming. If you are obliged to have your clothes made in the country, have them cut, if possible, by a tailor. It don’t so much matter who makes them up.
The fit of a collar adds to or mars a person’s appearance greatly. ”

“ Put two or three neat stitches in the back of your collar, so as to affix it to your jacket, having first measured to see that the ends shall meet exactly evenly in front, where you will fasten them neatly with a stud. The ordinary system of placing one pin at the back of the collar and one at either end is much to be deprecated. ”

“ The body may be either low or high, with a small collar having two rows of cambric plaited very fine, or with a jaconet collar having open plaits, or again with a Charles V. collar, made of frieze well starched and lustred. The under sleeves should be always in harmony with the collar. ”

“ COLLAR, something worn or fastened round the neck (Lat. collare, from collum, neck) , particularly a band of linen, lace or other material, which, under various shapes at different periods, has been worn by men and women to serve as a completion or finish to the neckband of a garment (see Costume) ; also a chain, worn as a personal ornament, a badge of livery, a symbol of office, or as part of the insignia of an order of knighthood, an application of the term with which the present article deals. ”

“ It must stand up, no matter if a turn-down part is cut on or if it stands alone, as on military or clergymen’s coats. A well fitting military or clergyman’s coat requires for its standing collar nothing but a straight piece of cloth, and sewed on straight. ”

“ The utility of the invention, as applied to collars of the given fabric, is stated to be that it permits so folding collars of paper or of cloth and paper on a curve as to avoid the wrinkling or puckering of the bands when the collars are put around the neck, and so folding them on a curve as to leave room enough for a cravat between the turn-over portions and the bands. ”

“ She carries a muff in her hand, wears a good wide collar and cuffs, and neat roses on her shoes.
The Puritaness is also known. She is generally represented as a sly bird in sombre clothes; her town garments, full skirts, black hood, deep linen collar are shown to hide a merry-eyed lady, her country clothes, apron, striped petticoat, bunched up skirt, linen cap, her little flaunt of curls show her still mischievous. ”

“ WOOLEN CLOTHES. Dresses, suits, coats, skirts, etc., should be brushed regularly and watched closely for such small matters as loose buttons, frayed skirt edges, missing hooks and eyes, and soiled collars or necks.
HANGERS. Dresses and waists should be kept on hangers. Coats should never be left lying carelessly over chairs, and should never be hung up by the collar or armhole. They should be kept on hangers when they are not in use so that their necks and shoulders will not lose their shape. ”

“ The collar must fit close around the neck, the lapels should be neat and even, the opening in front should close without bulging when buttoned, and should have no cross wrinkles under the back of arms, and no wrinkles below the collar. ”

“ At this period the dress of the scholars presented a peculiarly grotesque appearance, and consisted of a stiff and by no means superfine hat, coat without either collar or lining, of similar cut to that now in use, but of much coarser and inferior material, knee breeches, blue stockings, and low shoes, with buckles. ”

“ To make the collar pattern, trace the front and the upper part of the back onto another piece of paper. Trace the front first, tracing along the sewing line, that is, without seams. Then, trace the upper part of the back without seams, keeping the shoulder edges even. (See Fig. 61.) Mark the outline of the collar as indicated by the AB. This gives a collar that lies flat on the dress. If you want a collar to roll high in the back, use just a straight fold of goods.
Fig. (61) A diagram for making a Tuxedo collar
To make the lining pattern, use your block pattern, as shown in Fig. ”

“ Underclothing.—Of the underclothing worn next the skin something may be said apart from the general history of costume. Linen shirts were worn by both men and women in the age before the Conquest, and even in the 10th century it was a penance to wear a woollen one. After that time we soon hear of embroidery and ornament applied to them, presumably at the collar which would be visible above gown or tunic. Men added short drawers, or breeches, a word which does not secure its modern value until the end of the 16th century. ”

“ In making shirt-collars of a fabric known to the trade as 'parchment-paper,' or paper prepared with animal sizing, which may be manufactured cheaper than a fabric composed of paper and cloth, is sufficiently tough and strong to form tenacious button-holes, is susceptible of a smoother surface and polish than cloth-paper, and can be turned over without cracking and forming a roughened edge, &c. ”

“ Coming down, he looked strange in a flannel collar and a flannel shirt-front, with an evening coat and vest. It was rather large.
“The tailor can make it right,” she said, smoothing her hand over his shoulder. “It’s beautiful stuff. ”

“ The stand of the collar should not be made too deep, neither should there be too much fulness in the sleeve heads, but we shall deal with the sleeves as we proceed, taking one of this size as an example. Although we are showing the working of the system by means of a Dress Bodice, yet as far as the principles of fit are concerned, they would be applied in the same manner to Jackets, Ulsters and Dolmans, the variations in style being produced by altering the position of the seams, and increasing in a more or less degree the allowance for making. ”

“ I had been desired to appear in full uniform—epaulettes, cocked hat, sword, and what is suggestively called "brass-bound" coat; swallow-tailed, with a high collar stiffened with lining and gold lace, set off by trousers with a like broad stripe of lace, not inaptly characterized by some humorist as "railroad" trousers. The theory of these last, I believe, is that so much decoration on hat and collar, if not balanced by an equivalent amount below, is top-heavy in visual effect, if not on personal stability. ”

“ No matter what the quality of the cloth, however, the trimmings are always of rich, bright-coloured stuffs; and consist of bands or cords around the skirt, sleeves, and collar, elaborately stitched by the females,—who are in all cases the tailors. The leathern belt, worn with this dress, is loaded with ornaments,—little square and triangular plates of brass or white metal, and often of heavy, solid silver. ”