Stripe

“ Vertical Stripes.—For most kinds of knitted articles the vertical stripe is extremely difficult to produce without extra tackle on the machine, and most examples of vertical lines are produced by means of yarn inserted in addition to the ground of the fabric, notably in the case of clocking introduced in hosiery articles and vertical striped effects so popular in the men's shirting trade. ”

“ If the main stripe is cut at right angles with a second stripe, the textile appears more complicated and repose is lost. The same is true of checks, but no pattern is more distracting than large plaids, especially when used for waists, because the regularity of the design renders very conspicuous any inequalities in the shoulders or bust, and the great variety of colors detracts from the dignity of the dress. With small checks and narrow, self-colored stripes the effect is different, causing the texture to appear only shaded and not destroying the unity. ”

“ I have heard an old weaver say that when she works the hit-and-miss pattern she will carry first one stripe of the background the entire way across and probably start the second row. A little strip of the second colour is then used and then the background again. The good worker never cuts her strips all the same length but strives to get the effect of little slashes of colour against a solid background. ”

“ By a true stripe I mean one that has even edges, that is, whose sides are uninfluenced by structure. In all our British species such as P. machaon, M. artemis, M. athalia, V. atalanta, L. sibilla, A. iris, and some of the Browns, Frittilaries and Hair-streaks, which can alone be said to be striped, the bands are clearly nothing more than spots which have spread up to the costæ, and still retain traces of their origin either in the different hue of the costæ which intersect them, or in curved edges corresponding with the interspaces of the costæ. ”

“ Engineers, paymasters, and doctors have their stripes in black; but, being without the mauve, white, or red distinguishing badge between the stripes with their undress, it is impossible to distinguish. ”

“ Stripes were quite a feature of fashion then and in the later days of William III., when the striped skirt would be adorned with a deep band of plain material trimmed with braid, the striped bodice cut V-shaped to show a vest of pleated linen, the sleeves being plain with linen cuffs, the apron of linen, and the cloth hood and cape cut in one piece. ”

“ Selvages at left. Width of narrowest border stripe, one-fourth inch; others in proportion.
Plate 7
a, reconstruction of border stripes of fabric in plate 6,e; b, reconstruction of stripe found on several specimens; c, section of fabric (×2) showing variations in plain weave and amount of twist given to weaving elements (16-1240) ; d, section of fabric (×2) showing two-and-two basket weave varied in appearance by arrangement of colored yarns (4-3962) . ”

“ Small pieces of material can often be combined to make hats for children, or if suitable used for collar and cuff facings.
When combinations of materials are in fashion remaking is a simple matter. Wool materials can often be combined with satin, taffeta, foulard, or with plaid, stripe or check silk or wool materials. ”

“ A very pretty one can be made of double zephyr wool, four of the strips being an olive green, and three knit in Roman stripes. The stripes are joined with black and yellow wool. The plain strips are forty stitches, the Roman ones fifty stitches wide, It is finished at either end by a fringe of the different colors used in the several stripes. ”

“ Remarks.—Strong and durable. Few reach America. They seem more like products of Turkestan than of Southern Persia.
THE EXAMPLE ILLUSTRATED
This particular design consisting of rows of pears with stems of alternate rows turned in the opposite direction is quite common in rugs of this class. The main border stripe in this piece also consists of the pear motif on each side of which is a barber-pole stripe. ”

“ Why So Named.—After the city of Mujur in the Kir Shehr district of the Province of Konieh, from which they come.
Knot.—Always the Ghiordes.
Warp.—Always the wool.
Woof.—Wool, dyed red.
Nap.—Short wool.
Borders.—Usually three border stripes, one wide one, with a narrow one on either side. The main stripe usually carries floral forms arranged in square or diamond shaped medallions. The reciprocal saw teeth design is frequently employed. ”

“ Lastings enter largely into the manufacture of uppers for boots and shoes.
Dyed Cotton Spanish Stripes.—A plain-woven all-cotton fabric woven with a plain weave, having both surfaces raised, giving the fabric the general appearance of Flannelette; being a dyed fabric, it is piece-dyed after leaving the loom. As a distinctive feature, Spanish Stripes have a list or edge of different colour to the main body of the fabric. The warp threads are finer and harder twisted than the filling threads, which are soft and full to facilitate the raising during the process of finishing. ”

“ Not a single other design appeared in the field, yet the richness of colour and chasteness of pattern made it exceedingly beautiful.
The patterns of the border stripes, that number from two to five, are generally distinctive; though occasionally they follow well known Caucasian drawing. The outer one has so frequently the running latch-hook that it is almost typical. As a rule, it has the simple form shown in Plate K, Fig. 20 (opp. Page 230) ; but now and then the more elaborate drawing of the Georgian stripe (Plate J, Fig. 9, opp. Page 228) is followed. ”

“ There is one vestige in connection with trousers that we may mention before leaving this subject, and that is the stripes which are to be seen on many official dresses, and which have been adopted by some men in their evening dress of recent years. It seems that this takes us back to a row of buttons which were once used along the whole length of the breeches when these were too tight for the foot to be put through them, and in consequence they had to be undone and done up again along the side of the leg. ”

“ From the inherent horizontal character of the fabric it is evident that cross effects such as horizontal stripes of colour can be much more expeditiously produced than effects of the vertical variety. There is something jarring about a predominantly horizontal series of colour stripes, for when these are made into garments they show crosswise, whilst the prevailing cast of the human figure is vertical. ”

“ Page 50.—On her silken braided hair.—The original is "Silken stripes upon her head"; the stripes may simply mean her hair, or may mean that, like the Roman deities, her hair was in fillets (vittæ) to show her divine origin. ”

“ Stripes are a great deal worn in all materials, but checked stuffs show signs of being rather more popular, and the fine-lined checks with which we began the autumn have grown into greater squares as the time has gone on. ”

“ For the great bulk of goods, therefore, cross stripes are quite unserviceable except, perhaps, for the sporting jersey, where the object is to arrest the attention of the observers and enable them to trace the movement of individual players in the field. ”

“ Stripes and designs may be put on the foundation by applying drops of other brilliant colored wax, and by careful manipulation the wax when warm can be made to flow around the pin head and form pretty stripes and designs. ”

“ CHECKS AND PLAIDS
If pekin and bayadère stripes are combined, we obtain checked fabrics, and of these an endless variety and pleasing effects can be produced with the aid of suitable color combinations.
Check
Fig. ”

“ The material is phormium leaf cut into strips an inch in width, each alternate strip being dyed black. Each strip is then divided into eight little strips or thongs, and they are so plaited as to produce an artistic checkered pattern of black and white. The ingenuity in forming so elaborate a pattern with so simple a material is extreme; and, as if to add to the difficulty of his task, the dusky artist has entirely changed the pattern at either end of the belt, making it run at right angles to the rest of the fabric. ”

“ Pleated Insets: Strips of narrow pleating inset in skirts and tunics is a favorite trimming for taffetas and satins. (See Fig. 3.) Stitch the edges of the garment to the strip of pleating, as described in making tucked insets.
Fig. (3) Try pleated insets on your new serge or silk frock
Lattice Work Trimming: One of the new trimmings for silk and cotton dresses is lattice work. It is just what the name implies—a sort of lattice work design set into the goods. You can use almost any braiding design as a foundation for your lattice work. The easiest way is working right over the pattern. ”

“ Even the Graces have arms and shoulders and calves and stomachs all at random; and the most beautiful of them has a slice missing out of her head. But if, instead of looking at heads, arms, legs, bodies, separately, and separate from the drapery, we follow the outline of the groups against the background, drapery clinging or wreathing, arms intertwining, hands combed out into wonderful fingers; if we regard these groups of figures as a pattern stencilled on the background, we recognise that no pattern could be more exquisite in its variety of broken up and harmonised lines. ”

“ The artist of the fifteenth century knew drapery only as an exotic, an exotic with whose representation the habit of seeing mediæval costume was for ever interfering; on the stripped, unseemly, indecent body he places, with the stiffness of artificiality, drapery such as he has never seen upon any living creature; the result is awkwardness and rigidity. And what attitude, what gesture, can he expect from this stripped and artificially draped model? None, for the model scarce knows how to stand in so unaccustomed a condition of body. ”

“ Then hold the work in the right hand. With the fourth strip in the left hand, pass it around the outer strip and between the parts of the inner strip in the right hand. To draw the strips tight, pull the open ends. ”

“ After perfection, must come something less until the wave rises again. If in Raphael’s time the border claimed a two-foot strip for its imaginings, it was slow in coming narrower again, and need required that it be filled. ”

“ The silk is unwound, is carried to England or France, is there woven into a beautiful fabric, and after passing through many hands, enriching all, it forms part of the dress of some lovely woman, or the neck-tie of some gentlemanly scoundrel. Contact with a rough world, or a stiff shirt-collar, rubs off a minute fibre; the wind carries it away; and, after more wanderings than Ulysses, it comes to the stage of our Microscope. ”

“ If the strips are cut an inch in width and raveled rather more than a third on each side, it still leaves enough cloth to hold firmly in the weaving, [61] but I have known one industrious soul who raveled the strips until only a narrow third was left down the middle of the strip, and this she found it necessary to stitch with the sewing machine to prevent further raveling. I have also known of the experiment of cutting the strips on the bias, stitching along the centre and pulling the two edges until they were completely ruffled. ”

“ If the strip is there the pass is there also, he may go without asking, and he takes the strip with him and goes out. If another has occasion to go he need not ask, but placing himself by the door, as soon as the one comes in who has the strip, he takes it from him and goes out. ”

“ Mind, good reader, it must be silk, not bombazine, or any of the cotton varieties of black, as the admirable effect of silk depends upon its gloss, which makes the garment full of those subdued and reflected lights which give motion and play to the drapery. ”

“ The first law with which the novice or learner of the art of striping or ornamenting is confronted is that of color and form. This he must study patiently and persistently, the while practicing with the pencil in order that the purely mechanical part of the art be well mastered. Grace, freedom, sure-handedness, are indispensable factors, as applied to the mechanical features of striping and ornamenting, and these can be attained only through the agency of diligent practice, combined with the help of an eye educated to act quickly and accurately. ”

“ ALL draperies that are not regularly cut and made, according to some design, but depend for their appearance entirely on the way in which the fabric is put up, are classed under the heading scarf draperies. They are at best but an imitation of the cut festoon drapery, and for anything permanent much better satisfaction is obtained by the use of fabric properly cut and made up. ”

“ It is made of little strips (Fig. 6) three-eighths of an inch wide and two and a half inches long, “sliding fit,” which means that they are to be a little less than two and a half, so that they will slide in a space two and a half inches wide. A sharp rub on the ends with sandpaper will make this slight difference. There are twenty-two of these strips, and they are glued side by side on a strip of white muslin cloth. If you use a piece with a selvage on one side, you will be more sure of making the cover perfectly straight. ”

“ When four strips bear many knots thus tied, he takes the first strip and, counting off the knots by fours, beginning at the broad end of the leaf, catches the strip between his thumb and the base of the index finger of the right hand in such a way that all the knots which are over an even division by four, stick up above the back of the hand. ”

“ They are all alert, busy, noisy, crowded with life in every storey, oozing vitality from every window; but of all the narrow vertical strips that make up the houses of the street, this strip numbered thirty-seven is empty, silent, and dead. ”

“ And you would never be suspected of having them!"
"But once more, lady, what's the dope?"
"It's the eight plates that we must keep, whatever happens. They've been taken off the blocks and wrapped in strips of one of my silk underskirts. ”